passionate_rx7_newbie

I sure wish I found this site, fd3s.net and robrobinette.com BEFORE I bought and wrecked my 3rd gen RX7, built in April of 2002. This is the first rx7 I have ever owned and I just love the car to death ...

My story starts with an Ebay purchase ($6500) ( http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MEWA%3AIT&rd=1 ) that specifically stated that the car produced white smoke at start and certain rpms. Also, that the turbos had a leak and would need repair. I purchased this car, at this price, expecting to make these repairs, as I felt it looked in good condition, which it is.

Upon recieving the car in CA, I immediately took it to MazdaTrix (mazdatrix.com) in Signal Hill, CA. While there, the car exibited the EXACT SAME symptons as described on the fd3.net site under "O-ring Failure". Compression for each rotor was:

Front: 7.4 7.3 7.3
Rear: 6.2 6.5 5.9

Obviously the rear rotor is not looking great, maybe some would say just plain bad. Also, the car exibited plenty of white smoke (plus a funny smell) when cold and after not running for more than 20-30 mins. In addition, other symptoms included a drop in coolant pressure during a 5 minute test. At the time I did not know that an over-night cooling pressure test is essential to determing an potential O-ring failure. Also, the cooling resovoir momentarily filled up, but this only happened once. As a result, this symptom was not taken too seriously. After talking with MazdaTrix, an engine rebuild was something important to do .. in time. We felt the car could be driven home (about 150 miles) away and come back another time for the engine rebuild.

In no way am I holding MazdaTrix responsible for anything in this post. I think they are a good shop and I only wish that the symptoms exibited while there were taken more serisouly and I then would have left the car there for proper repairs. One of my biggest concerns was causing damage to the car ... ie, engine failure.

Within 3 days of driving this car, mostly at 65-75 mph, and only momentarily at times getting up to 90+ mph but only for a few minutes, I noticed nothing unsual about the car as far as lack or power (aside from the 2ndary turbo not kicking) or a flucuation in oil pressure or coolant tempurature (although I now know the stock temp gauges are worthless).

However, my luck ran out and on the 3rd day, while driving around 65 mph, the oil guage would drop for a few seconds then come back up, then drop again. It did this for a couple minutes and then the check engine light came on and I immediately decided to get off at the next exit/ramp. Unfortunately, the engine starting losing power immediately and being the NEWBIE rx7 owner I tried to downshift into 4th and at this moment the engine completely stalled (all lights came on, battery lights etc) and this caused the rear end to lockup. I had no power brakes or steering and the car swerved right, then back left and I nailed the center divider going at least 40 mph if not 50. Now the car sits at a different Mazda RX7 shop where it has been inspected to see that there is virtually no oil in the motor and the shope owner and myself are preplexed as to what exactly happened to cause the engine to fail and what caused the oil pressure drop and subsequently the loss of oil.

This is a sad story, and it only happened becuase I was not educated, let this be a lession to all... I am in the process of getting my insurance to pay to rebuild the car to before the crash, but it will require fixing the frame and I won't get into those details, but I really, really, really, want to rebuild my car. I did it an injustice by not leaving it at MazdaTrix the day I picked it up.

In an effort to rebuild my car as best I can on a budget, I have looked at my options and wanted to know if anyone has ANY experience with JDMOnline.com ( http://www.jdm-online.com/index.php?...products_id=38 )for purchasing RELIABLE engines.

Another option I have found is here: http://www.rx7store.net/product_p/stage2fd.htm for a rebuild which seems to have a low cost, but maybe doesn't include everything needed.

Now that I know more about the rx7, I just want to make it reliable as the stock performance seems adequate for me ... for awhile until I am more experienced.

Also, since this car was built prior to May, 2002, I noticed that it has the classic knock in the rear control arm. I want this fixed as well, but I don't know what aftermarket part is best to replace it with?

Any advice or information would be great. This is my first post to rx7club.com.

Regards,

A Heartbroken rx7 owner.

TurboTagTeam

If you ran out of oil chances are you are gonna need a new shortblock. Rebuilding an engine is usally only good if your coolant seals go bad. It's not that bad though. A new shortblock from mazda is 2600$ max. Add 1000$ for removal and install of new engine.

As for your turbos. It could be a mix of things. There are alot of things that could cause the stock twins to work improperly. Worst case sinario--a used set of twins can be bought on ebay for 1000$ or less.

Rear end clunk---you probably need new ball joints. It's not too hard of a fix.

Best of luck with everything.

passionate_rx7_newbie

I am curious to know what goes into a rotary rebuild. MazdaTrix has quoted me about $6700 for a complete rebuild (level C) that gives me gaskets, clutch and other misc items. The shop where the car is at now has said that he has NEVER done a 3rd gen rotary rebuild for less than 10K and is estimating that for my car.

If you talking around 5K or less for a quality engine rebuild/replacement, what gives with the higher prices? just my area in CA ?

KeloidJonesJr.

iTrader: (8)

wow I wish you the best of good luck with the money pit.

passionate_rx7_newbie

Also, refering to this link:
http://www.roadmasterimportengines.c...Selected=Mazda

What is the part number of my 93' rx7 engine, or how/where can I look it up?

passionate_rx7_newbie

Yah, well, this money pit is FUN AS HELL to drive and I love it... I've seen people spend just as much on their pets and or furniture/antinques like my mother ... everyone has a money pit, but if you get some fun/satisfaction/enjoyment out of it for awhile, I think its worth it ... not fun anymore, find another money pit!

TopPerformer

Since you want to retain the stock performance level, the price of a rebuild will depend on how damaged your current motor is. More than often if the motor isn't damaged too badly a rebuild would be the preferred method, which is cheaper than going with a reman. I believe the people here who opt to go with a remanufactured engine contact Ray Crowe @ Malloy Mazda 1-888-533-3400, he is renowned for giving us FD owners good pricing on parts and provides great service. You might want to give him a call to check whether or not he has any in stock.

TopPerformer

Odd that Mazdatrix would charge you 6700$, when their site specifically list the "level C" rebuild as being 4875$... 2k tax? . You might want to check it out mazdatrix.com, their site lists exactly what is included in the rebuild, which usually includes new rotors and rotor housings at that price.

PS. unless you're doing an all out race build, I highly doubt it will cost you 10k for a rebuild. Don't let them pull your chain...

pinkrx7

iTrader: (2)

rx7world.com cheapest short blocks around.. anyway jdm engines are crap i bought one i know.. they are for rotaries anyway because they are not properly stored and sit around too long.. jdm motor importers only know about piston motors and nothing about rotaries except not to give them warenties.. anyway look at the picture in the jdm motor link you gave us.. thats no fd motor..

impactwrench

Send it to Kevin at Rotaryresurrection.com. He seems to be the only guy out there that will fix what needs fixin without all the BS.

jpandes

From reading the ebay descripition, it sounds like you were going to need to pay for arebuild sooner or later. The white smoke that the seller mentioned is a tell-tale sign that the coolant seals were going. But, you should have already known that you were going to have pay for a rebuild soon. What do you expect for a $6500 FD?
I bet you hopd that you'd get more time driving the car before the engine crapped out

Where in CA are you located? DO NOT let any shop touch your car if they aren't rotary specialists! There are a bunch in Rx7 shops in CA that can do the rebuild, remove and reinstall from start to finish for $4000-6000, if you are going to keep the car pretty stock.

You can buy a remanufactured engine from Ray at Malloy for $2600 shipped and pay another $1500 to get it installed by an experienced rotary mechanic. However, I would find a GOOD reputable ROTARY shop and have them pull your engine and rebuild it and reinstall it. That way if anything isn't right, you will have ONE shop to hold responsible. Check out the local forums, west, for some shop recommendations.

passionate_rx7_newbie

Actually, I was hoping I could at least get the car home and over to Mariah Motorsports in Santa Barbara, CA for some repairs. I have been quoted 10K for an engine rebuild, as they say they have NEVER done one under 10K.

From people who have messaged me on these forums, 6K for removal, rebuild and reinstall would be the max they would pay at that would be for a full dowel pinned and 3mm bridge ported motor.

I originally took the car to MazdaTrix in Signal Hill CA who quoted me $6700 for a level C rebuild with removal and installation. So, other than these 2 shops I don't know where else to go. Both shops apparently race rx7s too, so maybe they overcharge customers so they can race

mdpalmer

iTrader: (24)

Sorry if I missed anything already said, but if you lost oil pressure/oil, you may have a lot more internal damage than you want to know about. You'll never know 'til you crack open the engine. When my motor was taken apart, I had a combo of apex seal, rotor housing, eccentric shaft, and bearing damage. Basically 2/3 of my engine was junk. If your engine builder is a good guy he may be able to get engine parts for you cheap.

In all seriousness, the words "budget" and "FD" don't mix It is a fantastic car though. I love mine too

mono4lamar

iTrader: (32)

^^^^ exactly what mike said! your most likely dealing with junk parts upon disassembly of the shortblock. since your going to be keeping at stock level i would send in your core to ray crowe (1 888 533 3400) he can give you at least 400 bucks for the thing and possibly more if it doenst turn out to be complete junk. so your going with 2200 shipped to a shop of your choice! another grand to have assembled and put back in and your set! under 10k and you have a great car.

theres cheaper way to go about this without taking chances from buying a motor from someone else that you have no idea what your getting. this is the smartest cost effective thing to do and you have a mazda warrante. i honestly would not mess with that motor cause if you were acually driving it without any oil at all your in for a suprise when you crack that baby open. send it to ray and be done with it. hope i helped

adam c

iTrader: (2)

Jim at Mariah is a good guy, and does good work. However, they always seem to want to charge more than they should. Where are you in Ca? If not far from LA, you might want to try Rotary Reliability and Racing.

http://www.rotaryracing.com/rot_home.htm

grimple1

iTrader: (1)

You should be able to get the engine rebuilt for under 10k. 10K for an engine rebuild is too much, imo. Here's a few in the SO.Cal LA Area:

http://www.rotarypowerusa.com/index.htm

http://www.lucky7racing.net/

http://www.rotaryextreme.com/intro.html

http://www.rotaryracing.com/


For 5k you can have atkins rotary build you one and send it to the shop for them to put in. Let's say they charge 2k (which is too much, again) for an install, that's 7k for an awesome built engine by someone that's been doing it for many years.

GL getting an insurance company to NOT total your car due to the frame problems! That's gonna be your battle, not getting the car repaired.

pinkrx7

iTrader: (2)

or.. you can go ls1 =P

TurboTagTeam

The last time I blew my motor i got a quote to rebuild it. I trashed one rotor and housing.

The price was 2200 for parts and 1000 for labor. I chose to just buy another shortblock and do the work myself.

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

Sorry about your luck bro! I definatly know what it feels like regret not doing my homework. Good on you for staying determined! When your FD is riding smooth you will be happy. I would go with a mazda reman, and have a good rotary specialist install it. Your turbo's could be toast so have them checked out as well. I would go with some infini's from www.rx7.com if you want relatively stock. Mazdatrix's rebuild's are pricey. If your going with relative power just get a reman and have a good shop install and check everything out for you. Oh yeah, and do the clutch while the engine's out.

Good luck.

adrock3217

I don't see why you seem so willing to be ripped off..

10k for an engine rebuild, even with pulling+installing, is about 2x too much. More then that, actually..

Ray Crowe. Shortblock. $2600. BRAND NEW!!


It comes with a warranty! No need to be ripped off by Mariah! Or any other Rotary shop!

It's not that hard to pull/install an engine..but meh, if you REALLY want to have a shop do it...

PDViper77

iTrader: (9)

Exactly, just buy a shortblock from Ray. If you lost oil pressure your motor is more than likely JUNK. Also if you have a decent set of metric tools swapping out the engine isn't too bad. You just have to have patience. It will save you a lot of money if you install the motor yourself. The hardest part is putting on the transmission because it is heavy as ****. Just find a friend!
Good Luck!

Jedon

When I had my engine "rebuilt" I pretty much ended up with a new engine. I signed up with Mazdaspeed so got the parts cheap but it was still $4700 in parts alone, new rotors and housings, seals, eshaft, bearings etc. I also had it street ported and had the water chanels ribbed. I think the total came to around $10K and I pulled and then installed the engine myself.

Speedworks

Would it be possible to order such an engine, take it apart without firing it up, port it and put it back together with the existing seals?

Or would that be to naive?

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

^^ Interesting idea. I'd like to know the answer to this question as well.

-s-

alexdimen

iTrader: (13)

all the hard seals would be fine. it's safe to say that you could get away with it and only have to buy new tension bolt seals and coolant o-rings. i wouldn't risk re-using those.

you would also have to re-glue the apex seals as you would for initial assembly to keep them together. not a big deal.

i would be doing that myself, but i can actually do it at home for much cheaper and end up with cermet rotor housings. on the other hand, my short block isn't trash as this guy's is.