Twin turbo set up
#26
Used or not, if the stock temp gauge started to move, you've likely suffered damage to your motor. It's very late to move, and usually only moves when it's too late (hence the need to relinearize it or get an aftermarket water temp gauge). Also, whether the radiator is used or not doesn't matter; it's whether or not it or another part of your cooling system is clogged or leaking...
Good luck...
Good luck...
#29
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
Originally Posted by Cgotto6
Haha. Thats funny. Another Noob's engine bites the dust. Too bad you didnt get around to reading the FAQ like you said you were...Cause one of the biggest things you will read is about the shitty stock water temp gauge. Hope you got the money for a new motor.
A3ON7, check for coolant leaks, replace your thermostat, and flush the system with fresh coolant, being sure to purge the system of air.
#31
well i hope everyhting is fine with your motor. I am also new to rotary motors and as they have already said the faqs are great to start at for questions. as for spending 10g's to get into the 400 whp range is not true just look around you will find that it can be done for less with some reliablity. you have to be smart and talk to people willing to take a few minutes to let you know what they need and what it will take. Good luck and happy rotaring
#32
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
Originally Posted by speedfreak95
I am also new to rotary motors and as they have already said the faqs are great to start at for questions. as for spending 10g's to get into the 400 whp range is not true just look around you will find that it can be done for less with some reliablity.
Your statement is 100% incorrect, UNLESS you know what you are doing and do your own work. I can take a stock FD and get it to 400 rwhp for under 10k, but guess what? I own a shop, have many resources regarding parts, have wasted oodles of time and money in the past learning lessons the hard way etc.
Bottom line, getting to 400 rwhp reliably is not a quick or easy task. Anyone who says otherwise hasn't actually tried, they have simply read a bunch of drivel in the internet
#33
development
Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
Bottom line, getting to 400 rwhp reliably is not a quick or easy task.
advice from Carlos @ CLR Motorsports
Originally Posted by rx7tt95
One of the reasons I went with the modified bits is due to the weak 93+ rotors. They are quite thin, can twist and melt easily, and are generally perceived to be a major weak link at about 400rwhp. There is too little fudge factor with them on pump to be a good idea according to CLR. Carlos had several rotors cut lengthwise showing the difference in casting thickness. It was fairly apparent that the 93+ rotors had the lowest build quality. Wall thickess was not very uniform and generally speaking, the rotor weights for any given REW motor are pretty far off.
#34
Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
Bottom line, getting to 400 rwhp reliably is not a quick or easy task. Anyone who says otherwise hasn't actually tried, they have simply read a bunch of drivel in the internet
Originally Posted by dubulup
some think the actual rotors are a weak point in REW engines at that point...reliability-wise.
advice from Carlos @ CLR Motorsports
advice from Carlos @ CLR Motorsports
#38
Goodfalla Engine Complete
iTrader: (28)
What about RX-8 rotors? Lighter and higher compression... although that is usually not a good thing. You could alwyas get them milled a bit to go to a lower comp. But my uneducation in these matters is probably showing through so I'll shut-up.
I just know that in piston engines (ewww) running boost on higher compression means keeping stock (or better) low end and getting the same amount of power out of a little less boost once boost kicks in.
The RX8 rotor idea has me very intrigued.
I just know that in piston engines (ewww) running boost on higher compression means keeping stock (or better) low end and getting the same amount of power out of a little less boost once boost kicks in.
The RX8 rotor idea has me very intrigued.
#40
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Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
Damn Sam, why so harsh . If he didn't drive for long with the elevated temps, the motor may be ok.
A3ON7, check for coolant leaks, replace your thermostat, and flush the system with fresh coolant, being sure to purge the system of air.
A3ON7, check for coolant leaks, replace your thermostat, and flush the system with fresh coolant, being sure to purge the system of air.
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trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
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07-01-23 04:40 PM