Used or not, if the stock temp gauge started to move, you've likely suffered damage to your motor. It's very late to move, and usually only moves when it's too late (hence the need to relinearize it or get an aftermarket water temp gauge). Also, whether the radiator is used or not doesn't matter; it's whether or not it or another part of your cooling system is clogged or leaking...

Good luck...

 

Haha. Thats funny. Another Noob's engine bites the dust. Too bad you didnt get around to reading the FAQ like you said you were...Cause one of the biggest things you will read is about the shitty stock water temp gauge. Hope you got the money for a new motor.

 

Sure it is, 90% of the people on here have 500+ RWHP.

 

Damn Sam, why so harsh . If he didn't drive for long with the elevated temps, the motor may be ok.

A3ON7, check for coolant leaks, replace your thermostat, and flush the system with fresh coolant, being sure to purge the system of air.

 

And shut the car off if the needle on the stock gauge starts to go above center. It shouldn't do that -- something is wrong.

-Max

 

well i hope everyhting is fine with your motor. I am also new to rotary motors and as they have already said the faqs are great to start at for questions. as for spending 10g's to get into the 400 whp range is not true just look around you will find that it can be done for less with some reliablity. you have to be smart and talk to people willing to take a few minutes to let you know what they need and what it will take. Good luck and happy rotaring

 

If you're new to rotary motors then how do you know what it takes to get to 400 rwhp? There are more FDs running around with hp in the 300s than in the 400s, I can tell you that .

Your statement is 100% incorrect, UNLESS you know what you are doing and do your own work. I can take a stock FD and get it to 400 rwhp for under 10k, but guess what? I own a shop, have many resources regarding parts, have wasted oodles of time and money in the past learning lessons the hard way etc.

Bottom line, getting to 400 rwhp reliably is not a quick or easy task. Anyone who says otherwise hasn't actually tried, they have simply read a bunch of drivel in the internet

 

some think the actual rotors are a weak point in REW engines at that point...reliability-wise.

advice from Carlos @ CLR Motorsports

 

Having an XS Power SMIC in your sig doesn't help much w/ credibility, either

So what rotors did he end up using?

 

S4 TII Rotors; 8.5:1




<---sourcing a set for modification

 

Modification? To change the compression? Lighten? What?

I know ppl have looked into the RX-8 rotors. And anyone ever take a look at the 20B rotors?

 

no, 8.5:1 is fine

lighten to FD weight
3mm Apex seals
Port Phase

 

What about RX-8 rotors? Lighter and higher compression... although that is usually not a good thing. You could alwyas get them milled a bit to go to a lower comp. But my uneducation in these matters is probably showing through so I'll shut-up.

I just know that in piston engines (ewww) running boost on higher compression means keeping stock (or better) low end and getting the same amount of power out of a little less boost once boost kicks in.

The RX8 rotor idea has me very intrigued.

 

It's been discussed before...I'm just lazy to search The 20B rotors, however, I don't think I've ever seen mentioned before.

 

After sometime finding what the problem was, I find out that there's a coolant leak. But i don't think is a huge leak though as there's no white smoke when i restart the car and there's no smell of it. There's no sign of bubbles from the filler neck. Check my water pump pressure and it's ok. I'm going to the store later to change the cap. I have also flush the system with fresh coolant. What cap will you suggest me to get?

 

OEM caps, always.