Turbo Manifold and Downpipe Studs - allen screws?
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Turbo Manifold and Downpipe Studs - allen screws?
I pulled off my twins yesterday and the studs look bad on both the manifold and downpipe. I found this thread making it easy to find replacement studs: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...dition-957371/
Has anyone tried using allen screws as studs, so that when you are installing them you can you and allen wrench to properly torque them without messing up the threads?
IE Metric set screws, Allen, Cup point, Class 14.9 steel black oil finish, 10mm x 1.5mm x 35mm - Bolt Depot
Has anyone tried using allen screws as studs, so that when you are installing them you can you and allen wrench to properly torque them without messing up the threads?
IE Metric set screws, Allen, Cup point, Class 14.9 steel black oil finish, 10mm x 1.5mm x 35mm - Bolt Depot
#2
Rotary Enthusiast
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when pulling and putting the studs back in, I just used vice grips and thread locker. it's not really a matter of torqueing them down but making sure they won't pull out. I'd suffice to say that twisting them with my hands on a vice grip was more than enough to make sure they were not going to come out.
Along with that though, I used stock replacement ones because of the ungodly amount of heat that comes out of this little engine. There's some things you don't really want to gamble with when replacing it with something aftermarket. You want to make sure your replacement studs can handle the heat and won't warp.
However, I did replace the stock nuts with copper ones and anti-seize.
Along with that though, I used stock replacement ones because of the ungodly amount of heat that comes out of this little engine. There's some things you don't really want to gamble with when replacing it with something aftermarket. You want to make sure your replacement studs can handle the heat and won't warp.
However, I did replace the stock nuts with copper ones and anti-seize.
#3
RX-7 Bad Ass
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You need a good stud tool.
These things are amazing. They have round barrels inside that grab the stud and allow you to torque it in or torque one out without damaging the stud.
I've been using aftermarket studs for quite some time on my car and on other FD's with no issues. Definite must on the copper lock nuts, the OEM nuts are just a dumb design.
Dale
These things are amazing. They have round barrels inside that grab the stud and allow you to torque it in or torque one out without damaging the stud.
I've been using aftermarket studs for quite some time on my car and on other FD's with no issues. Definite must on the copper lock nuts, the OEM nuts are just a dumb design.
Dale
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r074r'/ |\|00B
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You need a good stud tool.
Amazon.com: OTC 6987 Metric Stud Remover Set - 4 Piece: Automotive
These things are amazing. They have round barrels inside that grab the stud and allow you to torque it in or torque one out without damaging the stud.
Amazon.com: OTC 6987 Metric Stud Remover Set - 4 Piece: Automotive
These things are amazing. They have round barrels inside that grab the stud and allow you to torque it in or torque one out without damaging the stud.
The review on this item made me think they would not work for installing studs:
#7
Racing Rotary Since 1983
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one of my favorite tools....
Sears.com
no stud wreckage, put down that Channel Lock! i have never met the stud that my KD set couldn't remove.
hc
Sears.com
no stud wreckage, put down that Channel Lock! i have never met the stud that my KD set couldn't remove.
hc
Last edited by Howard Coleman; 04-10-14 at 08:12 PM.
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r074r'/ |\|00B
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one of my favorite tools....
Sears.com
no stud wreckage, put down that Channel Lock! i have never met the stud that my KD set couldn't remove.
hc
Sears.com
no stud wreckage, put down that Channel Lock! i have never met the stud that my KD set couldn't remove.
hc
I've got the stud double-nutted, so I don't see what advantage that tool is going to give me?
I'm just unsure at what tq point this stud will snap if I use a breaker bar. So I'm curious if heat or a different detergent than PB blaster will help.
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Get yourself a small plumbers propane torch or butane torch, hit it with heat, should crack loose
Not sure on torque breaking point tho.
I snapped one, bought stud easy outs also at sears (removes stripped or broken bolts and studs)
Not sure on torque breaking point tho.
I snapped one, bought stud easy outs also at sears (removes stripped or broken bolts and studs)
#13
RX-7 Bad Ass
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Howard and I have the same idea on the stud extractor tool . Both are the same design, just different manufacturers.
Double nutting works fine, it's just a pain to do. The stud extractor tool is SO easy and works SO well you feel embarrassed you haven't had it before now.
That said, stuck exhaust studs are sometimes a REAL chore to get out. You will have to work it with heat. Heat it up good, let it cool, heat it up, let it cool, then hit it with PB Blaster and let it soak in.
Oh, the stud extractor tool - I've used it numerous times to install and remove studs. In some cases you might get a bit of a tool mark on the side, but the stud functions perfectly, nuts thread on and off easily, etc.
They make installing block off plates a SNAP, btw.
Dale
Double nutting works fine, it's just a pain to do. The stud extractor tool is SO easy and works SO well you feel embarrassed you haven't had it before now.
That said, stuck exhaust studs are sometimes a REAL chore to get out. You will have to work it with heat. Heat it up good, let it cool, heat it up, let it cool, then hit it with PB Blaster and let it soak in.
Oh, the stud extractor tool - I've used it numerous times to install and remove studs. In some cases you might get a bit of a tool mark on the side, but the stud functions perfectly, nuts thread on and off easily, etc.
They make installing block off plates a SNAP, btw.
Dale
#16
Rotary Freak
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. . .
Along with that though, I used stock replacement ones because of the ungodly amount of heat that comes out of this little engine. There's some things you don't really want to gamble with when replacing it with something aftermarket. You want to make sure your replacement studs can handle the heat and won't warp.
However, I did replace the stock nuts with copper ones and anti-seize.
Along with that though, I used stock replacement ones because of the ungodly amount of heat that comes out of this little engine. There's some things you don't really want to gamble with when replacing it with something aftermarket. You want to make sure your replacement studs can handle the heat and won't warp.
However, I did replace the stock nuts with copper ones and anti-seize.
#18
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if you have the engine on a stand, turn it so the manifold is upright. try hitting the stud with PB blaster or some equivalent soaking agent.
hit it healthy once every hour for like 5 hours. let it soak overnight. next day, hit that stud with some heat from the propane torch, the blue portion of the flame is the hottest, hit it for like a minute or two, it doesn't need to be glowing hot, just heated.
if you don't care about the stud, I'd say do my vice grips approach and tear that thing up and buy another one.
but if you want to reuse it, you should be able to break it after all that.
btw, what're you showing us in that vid? everything looks fine if that's what you want to hear.
a video of you attempting to break the studs would be more helpful so we can gauge how much difficulty you're having at getting it out.
hit it healthy once every hour for like 5 hours. let it soak overnight. next day, hit that stud with some heat from the propane torch, the blue portion of the flame is the hottest, hit it for like a minute or two, it doesn't need to be glowing hot, just heated.
if you don't care about the stud, I'd say do my vice grips approach and tear that thing up and buy another one.
but if you want to reuse it, you should be able to break it after all that.
btw, what're you showing us in that vid? everything looks fine if that's what you want to hear.
a video of you attempting to break the studs would be more helpful so we can gauge how much difficulty you're having at getting it out.
#19
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I posted the video (maybe should have been a separate thread) because I thought my primary rotor looked like it was caked in carbon and was concerned how bad it really was in the eyes of those who have seen more carbon buildup.
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