Razerx

Ok, i pulled my turbos and all but one of my studs came out. I got all new studs and nuts from Ray.

Question, do you just hand tight the studs on? then you slip in the gaskets, turbos and tighten them when you put the nuts on torque them?

Any reason to not put new nuts/studs on? Yeah expensive, but seems this would reduce grief later on.

Thanks

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Start the studs out hand tight with the short threaded end in the manifold. Then when you tighten the nut it will also tighten the stud to the manifold. I've never been able to insert the stud first and 'hang' the turbos onto it, btw. Make sure you use high-temp (copper based) anti-seize too.

The stinger about the hardware is that once you use a particular stud/nut in one location, the nut seizes to the stud after some heat cycling, and it will be fixed to that length. So to reuse that stud/nut again you should put a stainless steel split lock washer on under the nut to ensure that it will clamp on the flange.

Personally, given the cost and inflation of the mazda hardware, I'd only use the new parts where the old hardware is bad, and put split lockwashers under the re-used hardware. If you need to change turbos or downpipe later, having the spare fasteners can be a godsend.

Dave

Razerx

thanks, i already have the hardware in possesion so it is tough to send it back. Doesn't using the washers reduce the thread seating in the manifold by an 1/8 inch? i guess not a big deal

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Precisely - the washers prevent the situation where a stud/nut is reused at a location where the flange isn't quite as thick. Then the stud will bottom out without actually clamping the flange. The washer makes the flange a little bit thicker, and thus an old stud/nut will still tighten down if the nut refuses to turn more. But you dont' want thick washers, since there is only 10mm of embedded stud threads to begin with, as you noticed.