Ill TRY'n make this short so nobody gets confused lol, ok I brought my car to a shop recently to have my air pump repaired. They fixed the wiring, checked the 15 amp a/c fuse, and air pump relay, EVERYTHING was fine, but the air pump still does NOT work.

HOWEVER the air pump does in fact work when connected directly to the battery. The Final possibility is a faulty ECU.

Last year sometime, I "attempted" to fix my air pump wiring but I had the battery still connected (I know im an idiot), and when I toached the bare wires together it was actually working properly!! However while I was finishing my wiring repair, I accidently grounded the wires and it had left several "sparks". This leads me to belive I may have damaged my ECU, or at least the portion of it that commands the air pump... Any ideas?

 

You should be able to isolate the problem using a digital multimeter and a wiring diagram. Start at the air pump connector, and work your way back to the ECU and figure out where you're losing the signal. If you shorted the wires at the air pump connector together or to ground, then you would have fried the relay, but probably not the ECU.

 

I actually performed the whole testing procedure already with my digital multmeter. I verified, all the wiring as "good" I actually pulled out the air pump relay and tested it and I got it clicking. The 15 amp a/c fuse was blown, so I replaced it, but the pump still didnt work, and the fuse is still good.The only thing I didnt test was the wiring between the air pump relay and the "2J" connecter at the ecu, because I didnt feel like taking all that apart or damaging anything else.I will make sure to recheck the relay though

 

Well then it sounds like the problem is either the harness between the ECU and the relay or the ECU is bad. Have you checked to see if you're getting the correct signal from the ECU at the relay?

 

No I have not checked that.,but you are right, if I havent checked the wiring between the ecu and the relay, then thats what im going to check next. Im going to take apart my ecu, and check for continuity between the 2J connecter for the ecu, and the relay. Im not sure if my multimeter is long enough for this though.I believe the ecu is inside of the car hidden behind the passener side panels?

 

as a work around you could install a hobbs pressure switch, wire the pump in with a relay to the ignition switch so that it comes on when you start the car, then under boost the hobbs switch shuts off the air pump. This will cause the pump to work similar to stock, and you can adjust what PSI it comes on at if its too soon or whatever. I think the stock one shuts off at like 3000 RPM

 

Ok I recieved my ecu today ( $35 ), Next week on my day off, im gonna remove my old ecu, and check the wiring between the ecu itself and the relay, and im going to recheck ALL other wiring before installig the new ecu.

 

another question... I see in the factory manual how it has 4 connectors, now to check terminal "2J"for continuity, I would look on connector #2 and find the "J" pin. Are the letters in order from the top LEFT pin or the top RIGHT (depending on which direction you look at it)?