Hey guys,

I'm trying to get my Y-pipe off, and to do so I need to remove the rear turbo intake pipe that goes over top of it. I had no problem getting the bolts off from underneath, but now it's stuck in there. It's loose, and I can move it around and such, but I can't seem to be able to pull it out entirely. I need it out so that I can get at the rear half of the Y-pipe.

I read the Robinette write-up on removing the y-pipe, but but he makes it seem simple. I'm trying to figure out what my issue is.

Has anyone had any issues removing this on a RHD car? I'm thinking that might be a possibility. Other than that, I've removed everything that Robinette did. It might just be sheer incompetence...


Here's a pic of what I'm working with....

 

It is also attached via a bracket half way up the pipe. I think the bolt may even be visible in the picture.

 

Your vacuum on the air control valve (brown) seem to be collapse. Check it out!!

Eric

 

The bracket is on the pipe, and the bolt is in, but it's not attatched to anything.

As far as I can tell, the pipe itself is definitely not attatched to anything anywhere, there's just not enough psace for me to be able to pull it out. It comes out the top, right?


"Your vacuum on the air control valve (brown) seem to be collapse."

Defintiely didn't notice that. Thanks! I'll take a loot at it. It might just be from moving everything around, but it looks like just collapsed from the vacuum...

-Devan

 

I bring it out the top. Rotate it almost a full rotation as you bring it up and it will come out.

David

 

So, I'm thinking it might have to do with being RHD.

I didn't realize the brake booster and rest of that stuff is on the opposite side in the LHD cars....

My main snag seems to be whatever that black, tubular piece of the bare system is. (circled in pic) With it out of the way, I should have no problems.

So, question 1; What is it?

Question 2: Can I remove it without having to drain the system or have other difficulties?

 

Alright then, I feel like an idiot. After further inspection (you know, actually LOOKING at it), "whatever that black, tubular piece of the bare system is" appears to be the master cylinder. Sorry, I haven't had a chance to peek around my FD too much yet...

It's been a long day...

ANYWAY. Still a problem though. Looks like I'll have to take it out....

 

Wait until you try and remove the turbos

 

You have to lower the engine to get the pipe out. I have never managed to get it out without lowering the eninge. Mine is RHD.

 

Seriously? How hard is that to do?

 

You have to support the engine and gearbox under the gearbox. Then you loosen the six bults/nuts holding the subframe and the four bolts holding the steering rack.
I had to push the engine a bit to the left after lowering it to get the pipe out.

 

I knew the RHD was cramped in this area, but I didn't know you can't remove the rear inlet pipe. On the LHD it's just the ABS pump and piping. Yet another reason I'm happy my car is LHD.

Like the others suggested you'll be best off removing the motor mounts and lowering the whole engine. It sucks to have to do that but I guess there's no alternative.

Dave

 

No, you don't have to remove the motor mounts. Removing them can cause the oil pan to leak.

 

Can be removed without dropping the engine or whatever, not sure there's a procedure to describe though....helps to clock the comp housing if there's a bit of looseness there, tube to cat also removed gives a bit extra....still a pita with clutch master, etc...persistence will get you there.

 

Hell, just unbolt the clutch master cylinder and see if that gives you enough room. It's 2 bolts inside the car and you should be able to leave it attached to the metal hard line, should have enough flex in the line to move it out of the way.

I'd try that first before getting nuts with dropping the engine.

If the brake booster is the point of interference, though, you might have to get medieval. That sucker isn't easy to get out of there.

I'm really surprised there's that much of an interference problem on the RHD cars. You'd have thought Mazda would have thought that through a bit better.

Dale

 

I have a RHD and you don't need to remove all that stuff. Get under the car to access the 2 bolts that hold it on. Once it's loose you just need to twist it at a certain angle and it should winggle out.

 

I forgot. It should come out through the top of the engine.

 

Hey guys,

Thanks for all the help. I got it off!

Essentially, I got under the dash with a 12mm deep socket, and took the Master Cylinder bolts off. I pulled it out from the engine bay, but didn't remove any of the lines, I just pulled it out of the way and then just pulled and twisted the pipe out. It took some work, and some forcing, but I got it out.

Then there was just the 4 bolts holding the 2 parts of the Y-pipe on, I pulled it apart, and now it's off to the welders!

Thanks again guys!

 

Forgot, the 94(?) on mod, of no support bracket midway up that pipe also helps from memory with the double pike and twist. Bit of hacksaw love, if you're not a stickler for originality.

 

Yeah, I always hacksaw that stupid bracket off, it's useless and gets in the way.

Glad you figured it out!

Dale

 

Just a follow up for anyone else having this issue in the future...

Today I had to once again remove the rear inlet pipe. Since I'm removing the air pump, I was able to pull some of the other stuff out. With the midpipe air pipe (or whatever it's called) removed, it was a lot easier to get out. I didn't have to remove the master cylinder at all.

Good times. Take that, you stupid pipe...

-Devan

 

Ahem... sorry for the thread revival, I'm having exactly the same issue. Attached is a picture showing the source of my problem. The heater hard line blocks the rear inlet pipe down below, and the air pump pipes and clutch master cylinder block it up top!
I can get the flange off one stud at a time but not both! It has been suggested to remove the studs and replace with bolts, but that is a risky job in itself. I think I'll do the above and detach the clutch master cylinder from the firewall to make space up top. Maybe the heater line will need to move too. I'll update with results!