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Yep, that should be it. If in question, just post up some pictures.
Oh, another thing to remember - the primary fuel rail bolts to the center iron of the engine. Between the rail and the engine is a plastic spacer, this is a phenolic spacer to decrease heat transfer from the engine into the fuel rail. It very easily gets lost in the process, make sure to find it and hang on to it and make sure that goes back where it came from. If not the injectors won't seat properly and you'll have a substantial vacuum leak.
Yep, that should be it. If in question, just post up some pictures.
Oh, another thing to remember - the primary fuel rail bolts to the center iron of the engine. Between the rail and the engine is a plastic spacer, this is a phenolic spacer to decrease heat transfer from the engine into the fuel rail. It very easily gets lost in the process, make sure to find it and hang on to it and make sure that goes back where it came from. If not the injectors won't seat properly and you'll have a substantial vacuum leak.
Dale
That's a pretty important bit of information, almost glad the rain stopped me from getting to the fuel rail.
Would have absolutely dreaded having to go all the way back through the rats nest again for a plastic spacer..
SUCCESS!! Injectors off to the injector cleaners soon! Had 2 hours of sunlight and good weather today after I was done with work and managed to finish up the job!
Unfortunately had one connector casualty because the brittle connector already had a broken retainer notch and was dirt-glued stuck.
On the broken connector you may be able to get a new plastic shell and put the pins into it. Is that the air pump connector? That connector is frequently damaged.
On the broken connector you may be able to get a new plastic shell and put the pins into it. Is that the air pump connector? That connector is frequently damaged.
Dale
Yeah it is the air pump connector. Hope it isn't too hard to find.
Would be ideal to just put a new shell on, but it's just a 2 pin connector so it wouldn't be the end of the world to just solder or crimp on new connectors.
Any idea where I might be able to look up the part number for that connector?
I think there's a thread with sources for a lot of the common connectors. The wiring in the picture looks OK, I'd just put a new shell on each end and you're good. If there's any breaks or something on the wire I'd slip some heat shrink onto the wire and then put on the new shells.
Yeah it is the air pump connector. Hope it isn't too hard to find.
Would be ideal to just put a new shell on, but it's just a 2 pin connector so it wouldn't be the end of the world to just solder or crimp on new connectors.
Any idea where I might be able to look up the part number for that connector?
Thanks! Just found it myself and ordered from cycleTerminal.com.
Was a LOT easier than I anticipated. Really glad everything is already so well documented on the FD.
Was a close call, had to bottom out the tap against the inner housing of the fuel rail to get the NPT hose barb to thread on about 5 threads.
Once the connectors, injector rebuild kit, and cleaned/tested injectors arrive, I can button her back up and see how she runs.
Made a futile attempt with steel brushes and degreaser to clean off the corrosion on the block, fuel rails, UIM, etc but it would take dozens of hours so I'll just live with the "character" that's baked onto all these parts.
Maybe one day in the distant future if everything comes out for a full build I'll think about aesthetics again.
Two issues came up during reassembly:
This hose remains unattached, I have no idea where it goes.. Don't feel pressure or vacuum while the car is running, and no fluids coming out of it.
Looks like an 8mm hose, but strangely shows no signs of having been attached to anything. (There is no bulge where the nipple sealing ridge would be, nor any residue of any kind on the end of the hose.)
It connects to a hardline that routes underneath the oil fill neck.
The secondary throttle actuator solenoid nipple decided to snap on me as I was trying to fish out the hose to connect to the UIM.
At this point I was already 75% done with reassembly and had absolutely zero intention of going all the way back into the rat's nest to replace that solenoid...
Thus I was forced to deactivate the secondary throttle actuator by disconnecting the vacuum hose from the actuator and plugging both ends. (I'll use vacuum caps once they arrive in the mail.)
99% sure that hose to is the one that is routed from the downward-facing nipple on the oil filler neck down to the primary turbo inlet. Do you have any exposed nipples (har har) on your oil fill neck after reassembly?
99% sure that hose to is the one that is routed from the downward-facing nipple on the oil filler neck down to the primary turbo inlet. Do you have any exposed nipples (har har) on your oil fill neck after reassembly?
That would make sense. I'll check. That's about the one place I didn't look.
Noticed a new issue with the car idling low when warm.
Car starts up and idles fine at about 700/800 RPM when cold started.
Once the car warms up, the car's idle will suddenly drop to about 100-200 rpm nearly sputtering out and dying. The RPM doesn't even read on my tach.
It's able to hold this ridiculously low idle but the car doesn't sound super happy with it.
Since it's temperature related, I'm guessing the broken nipple on my secondary throttle actuator solenoid is causing a vacuum leak that is causing these idle issues?
It's very much an binary thing. As soon as the car hits temp, the idle immediately drops.
any input is appreciated.
Reading around on the forum tells me the more likely culprit of my low idle issues is a faulty or dirty IAC valve.
Will be taking that out for cleaning.
Yep good place to start. May also want to double-check your TPS, do you have a PFC?
Dale
No, I'm running the Eco-CPU ECU that it came with. It's an EEPROM based system and doesn't support real-time data without some sort of emulator apparently.
How should I go about checking the TPS?
Hmm, the fact that it idles fine until it warms up and then suddenly the revs drop does make me suspicious of that solenoid.
So, the vacuum diagram shows that the double throttle solenoid pulls vacuum directly from the upper intake manifold through a check valve. To investigate further, I would cap off it's vacuum source nipple/port on the UIM. That would at least be a no-cost easy experiment to rule it out as a suspect. https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...-turbo-749702/
Hmm, the fact that it idles fine until it warms up and then suddenly the revs drop does make me suspicious of that solenoid.
So, the vacuum diagram shows that the double throttle solenoid pulls vacuum directly from the upper intake manifold through a check valve. To investigate further, I would cap off it's vacuum source nipple/port on the UIM. That would at least be a no-cost easy experiment to rule it out as a suspect. https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...-turbo-749702/
Yep, once I'm off work I'll be testing that first since capping vacuum lines is easier than having to take things apart. Would be nice if it was just that.
Was livid at myself when I was 5 hours into the reassembly and broke the solenoid nipple while trying to route the new silicone hose back towards the UIM.
It must have already been weak/cracked from when I was taking off all the baked on rubber hoses. Didn't have a choice since the original rubber hose snapped anyway..
Y...Was livid at myself when I was 5 hours into the reassembly and broke the solenoid nipple while trying to route the new silicone hose back towards the UIM.
It must have already been weak/cracked from when I was taking off all the baked on rubber hoses. Didn't have a choice since the original rubber hose snapped anyway..
Back when I did my complete hose replacement in 2005, one of the warnings was to be super careful with taking the hoses off the solenoids since they were known to get very weak and brittle. There were various techniques discussed on just how to do that (slitting the hose with a razor blade, etc.). So don't beat yourself up about it - it happened to a lot of people.
Got the IAC valve cleaned and it seemed to take care of the low idle issue. Car warmed up and held a nice steady idle at around 800 rpm.
One point of concern is that the car makes a random misfire noise at idle, but more so at low throttle with no load.
My rx-8 used to do this too-- "popping" or "sucking" noises at completely random intervals at idle or low throttle. Was never 100% sure if they were actually misfires but what else could they be?
Car does smell like it's still running fairly rich at idle. All the black soot in the intake and exhaust as well as the carbon-seized IAC valve that I just cleaned are evidence of this.
Coils and leads look pretty new on the car. Also did plugs and oil yesterday. Injectors are freshly serviced and the flow test report shows them flowing EXACTLY at factory spec to the CC.
My best guess would be the MAF sensor is also dirty/carboned up, but if anyone has other points of interest for these symptoms your input would be appreciated.
If the car hasn't been running great for a while it may just need a good hard drive to burn off carbon and clear things out.
Most FD's have a slight miss or spit at idle, there's a lot of theories as to why but it's not worth killing yourself over. If it's generally a steady idle, you're in good shape.
There is no MAF sensor on the FD so there's nothing to be cleaned there. The MAP sensor can't be cleaned and could be damaged if you tried.
Drive the car and enjoy! Hopefully this helps with the hot starting.
If the car hasn't been running great for a while it may just need a good hard drive to burn off carbon and clear things out.
Most FD's have a slight miss or spit at idle, there's a lot of theories as to why but it's not worth killing yourself over. If it's generally a steady idle, you're in good shape.
There is no MAF sensor on the FD so there's nothing to be cleaned there. The MAP sensor can't be cleaned and could be damaged if you tried.
Drive the car and enjoy! Hopefully this helps with the hot starting.
Dale
Thanks Dale. I'll take it out for an italian tune up as soon as the DMV opens back up so I can get this car road legal.
The hot starting issues seem to have been resolved after servicing the injectors, but I also haven't gotten it to full operating temperature many times since I can't really drive it.
Just found out today what the true gremlin was. IAC valve was causing part of the issue but only slightly.
Cleaning it only masked the issue until the real point of failure deteriorated further.
The alternator failed and is unable to charge the battery! DUH! Silly me.
The "bogging out" at idle after car warmed up slightly was most likely just the battery depleting the tiny charge it had remaining in it and causing low current and insufficient spark.
Suspected this might be the case when I had to jump the 2 times in a row to start it after putting the interior back together. It's barely supplying 12v free revving at 2500rpm
Another day another part to replace
04-27-20, 11:28 AM
