Having a real hard time fitting the tranny back in place. Everything seems to look like it should slide in. I wiggle and jiggle but nothing. The long bolt currently is on the left hand side(should be right hand side... but left worked easier for now). It is partially threaded, but not sure if its cross threading or, just getting pressure from the transmission somewhere. So I don't feel comfortable "cranking" it in to suck the tranny in. There is about a 1" gap on the bottom and maybe a 2" gap on the top. I am confused, frustrated and have spent over 8 hours trying to get this damn thing. Tried angling the motor in the mounts, would it help to remove one and angle more? Anyone have ANY advice aside from removing the motor and doing it?

Ryan G

**edit-- alright mind is going insane brainstorming ideas, can someone tell me the flaw... What if I undo the pressure-plate and clutch, slide it onto the transmission and then try to wiggle the transmission on. Once on, use the inspection hole to tighten up the pressure-plate. Currently unsure if the angles work or do not, but maybe worth a try? Where is the huge flaw im missing in my frustrated state of mind?

 

Why not manually crank the motor with a socket? It works for me everytime.

 

What do you mean, like the 1 long bolt I got in? The rest of the bolts won't make contact, and the one thats in I cannot tell if its cross threading...

 

I keep three extra long bolts handy for this job. When I am close I thred them in and snug them up, then jiggle the transmission around some while tightening slowly - don't get in no hurry. This helps guide the imput shaft into the pilot bearing. Hopefully you aligned your splines right.

LAter

 

This was pretty dumb, so no insult intended...but I over-packed the pilot bearing once and the hydraulic (grease) pressure kept the shaft from going in all the way. Took me a couple of tries to figure it out.

 

If you have more of a gap up top than below, it's not going in straight. The tranny HAS to go in straight, that's the only way it will seat.

The motor has a tendency to sag forward on the motor mounts with the tranny out. You can either pick up on the front of the motor with an engine hoist or use a block of wood and jack CAREFULLY on the front of the oil pan to get the front of the engine up.

Transmissions either pop right in quickly, or you have to wrestle them in for no good reason.

Another biggie is making sure the clutch disc is centered. The clutch alignment tool should EASILY slide in and out. If it binds up any, the clutch isn't properly centered.

Dale

 

Make sure the splines are lined up. After that, just do as badddrx7 mentioned. My transmission has never just "slid all the way in" the several times I've installed/reinstalled my motor. I just get the splines lined up, and then use longer bolts to torque it down to where the stock bolts fit.

 

Thanks for all the replied, I'll look into grabbing a couple longer tranny size bolts (anyone know the size off top of head, if no no biggy, just at work). So last night I tried again, and I "think" I may have found the problem, when I put my clutch allignment tool in it goes about half way. It goes maybe 1/2 onto the splines. So I think for a second, and well it can freely wiggle around, and clutches shifts about 1/8" up and 1/8" down for 1/4" of play... never a good sign. So I tap the clutch tool and it continues to go in... and I keep tapping and finally it is to the "tapered" part so it is in center, clutch/pressureplate are reinstalled but now the tool is stuck in. I'll get it out by drilling a hole in the rear, sliding in a 3/16" shaf and pulling/preying on the shaft I insert. Now the question is, I have realized and well noobish mistake I think on my part. The pilot bearing sits, and then right behind it there is a ledge which leads to another hole. I figure this is where the tool had a tight fit, still unsure why, maybe its normal....Does the transmission go this far in or just back to the bearing

Thanks

 

Report back on this install. Actually it scares me. I'm afraid something isn't going to work/sound right once it's fired up after all this trouble.

I'd pull it all back out and start over, working carefully.


Later

 

You should never need longer bolts to make it work.... this leaves more room for mistakes such as forcing it in when the geometry is off.
Sure, out of the 75-100 FD trannies I've R&R'd I've had my far share of issues but I always mate both surfaces flush on the dowel pins before using or tightening a bolt.

I would guess either your clutch alignment is off or your trans-rear iron geometry is off.

-J

 

EXACTLY what he said. your tranny bell housing should sit flush before you even have to turn a bolt. if not, your splines probably arent matched up, get someone to turn a driveshaft yoke in the back of the tranny to turn the splines while you guide it in.