muibubbles

iTrader: (36)

okay so i have failed once again.. did a tranny swap for my friend.. and while switching over the parts from the old tranny to the new one, i believe TWO of the sensors got switch.

so basically the reverse lights (white ones on the rear bumper) are on in neutral and when you are in gear or reverse the light goes off... essentially the neutral and reverse sensors are swapped? (ps the reverse light flash when shifting gears......)

how can i fix this? do i have to drop the tranny again? because i believe on of the sensors is on the TOP of the tranny thus there is no access to it.. even if you go from the center console it still isnt accessable...

please help i reallllllllly dont wanna drop the tranny again just to swap the sensors......

muibubbles

iTrader: (36)

ps is there a difference in the sensor itself? can the wires be spliced and switched?

billyboy

Neutral switch is on top, reverse slightly less impossible, PPF removal might give an option, but I wouldn't count on it. Cut 'n splice does give a rough if appealing out if the switches are working in-situ.

RotorDream

the switches are really no different, they are both NO switches, so if you really want to FUBAR your wiring instead of scraping up your hand really bad then go ahead.

I will tell you what to do, but the outcome is totally up to you. The color of the wires are from a 94 wiring diagram, so make sure you double check the location of the pin in the connector just to be safe.

What you need to do is locate connector X-14 and X-05 (see attachment below for location)
After you locate them follow these steps
1. cut the Brown wire on X-05 (make sure you leave about 2 in of slack to work with)
2. splice about 2 feet (just to be sure you have enough to work with) of wire to both ends of the brown wire (i would recommend solder and heat shrink, as this is the best way to splice wire, but crimp connectors will work if you are cheap or in a hurry)
3. run both wires to connector X-14 (see attachment for location, and make sure you remember which of the new wires runs to the connector side)
4. cut the Green wire with a yellow stripe (leaving about 2 inches to work with)
5. splice the new wire that runs to the connector side of the X-05 wire to the non-connector side of the X-14 green wire
6. splice the new wire that runs to the non-connector side of the X-05 wire to the connector side of the X-14 green wire.
7. Double check your connections, test the reverse lights, Admire a job well done.

If you want to check the neutral switch there are 2 ways to do this, if you have a PFC it is the NTR (IIRC) sensor under the sensor check function, and if you have a stock ECU, make sure the engine is cold, and put the car in gear and start the engine (With the clutch depressed of course) If your neutral switch is working correctly the AWS will not engage. and the car wont jump to 3000rpm. (Finally a useful reason for mazdas biggest brain fart!)

badddrx7

iTrader: (7)

Hell No ! swap the connectors around. Those sensors are all the same on the three. Check your connectors.


LAter

muibubbles

iTrader: (36)

connectors are connected correctly... the sensors are in the opposite positions... i wonder if i can just splice off the connecters and reverse them.. which is what i think rotor dream is telling me?

RotorDream

UPDATE TO MY INSTRUCTIONS

You will also need to swap the pins on the X-14 connector for the Light Green wire and the Yellow wire with a red stripe. These are the returns for the switches and I forgot to put them in my original post. See new attachment.



What I'm telling you is you can, but I wouldn't recommend it. If the reverse lights are coming on in neutral, that the switch is working like it should.

Look at the top portion attachment. the wiring diagram for the 2 switches.
when the car is in neutral the neutral switch closed, providing a ground to the PCME, and when it is put in any gear, this ground is opened.
The same happens with the reverse switch, in reverse this switch is closed, and provides a power to the reverse lights.

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

I have an extra set in the garage somewhere.

Come to think of it, I have almost a complete drivetrain in my garage that I need to start selling - or find another car to put it in.

cpnneeda

iTrader: (1)

All the time you spent reading this, could have been spent pulling the trans and swapping the sensors. I wouldn't splice or cut anything, unless I could get to it comfortably. Laying under a car isn't comfortable. Not to me anyways. Great write up though RotorDream.

Sled Driver

iTrader: (9)

The 2 minute fix is to pull the Rev tail light bulbs out.

It's obvious you don't want to fix it properly, so you might as well half *** it.

Then just put the car in REV if you need to adjust the idle.

RotorDream

I would not recommend leaving this unfixed unless you plan on getting a PFC or another aftermarket ecu. The stock ECU uses the neutral switch and clutch to determine when to operate in "lean-best idle" mode. when the ecu senses either the car is in gear or the clutch is in, it assumes you have control of the throttle, and doesnt control idle the same way. if you leave this the way it is, the stock ECU will never compensate correctly (unless your in reverse) and will run rich at idle which could lead to excessive carbon build up, and fouling your spark plugs sooner.

EDIT: Also if you have emissions testing where you live, you won't pass due to excess unburnt fuel it idle.

Sled Driver

iTrader: (9)

I was being Facetious about removing the reverse light bulbs & adjusting the idle while in Reverse. It would be kind of hard to do by yourself, don't ya think?



Main Entry: fa·ce·tious
Pronunciation: \fə-ˈsē-shəs\
Function: adjective

1 : joking or jesting often inappropriately : waggish <just being facetious>
2 : meant to be humorous or funny : not serious <a facetious remark>

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Enough of the bickering...