tps bad? car wont start anymore.
tps bad? car wont start anymore.
Ok I just had a separate thread because my throttle body had a coolant leak.Well to make a long story short While changing the coolant hose on the bottom of my throttle body I managed to hit the throttle position sensor against my oil filter.But didnt think anything of it at the time.Now the damn car wont start and the hold light is flashing.I checked the codes and there were two codes.Code 12 and 58.Code twelve is the throttle position sensor.So the question is this.Will the throttle position sensor being out of alignement cause the car not to start at all? I tried to recalibrate the thing but the low ranges are alright.The problem is when I try to check for the wide open throttle settings.When I open the throttle up the number skyrocket.Im also confused as to where the fast idle cam is.Being that I cant seem to start the car It may be engaged and thats why im seing the unusually high ohm reading for the wide open throttle.
Originally posted by c00lduke
I know that when my TPS fell off my car ran like it was blow so i would see where there would be issues if it wouldnt start.
I know that when my TPS fell off my car ran like it was blow so i would see where there would be issues if it wouldnt start.
and what do you mean exactrly by turn over?
do you mean it does not start or the starter does not crank then engine to spin?
ok.heres an update.So I managed to find out the real reason why the car wouldnt start.Apparently the egi fuse went out.I replaced it and now the car starts.What fucked up is that I just screwed up my tps calibration and now I cant seem to recalibrate the damn thing.
God I wish I hadnt taken everything appart.
If anyone has any experience with throttle position sensors I really need some help on this one.
Heres the deal.The second wire from the top is supposed to have these ranges
closed .75 to 1.25 ohms
wide open throttle 4.8 to 5.0
the 4th wire is supposed to have these ranges
closed .1 to .7 ohms
wide open throttle 4.2 to 4.6
Thats all fine and dandy.Except for the fact that I cant seem to be able to get the throttle position sensor anywhere near .75
Its more like 6.0 and at wot its as high as 18.0 ohms.Am I missing something here?
God I wish I hadnt taken everything appart.
If anyone has any experience with throttle position sensors I really need some help on this one.
Heres the deal.The second wire from the top is supposed to have these ranges
closed .75 to 1.25 ohms
wide open throttle 4.8 to 5.0
the 4th wire is supposed to have these ranges
closed .1 to .7 ohms
wide open throttle 4.2 to 4.6
Thats all fine and dandy.Except for the fact that I cant seem to be able to get the throttle position sensor anywhere near .75
Its more like 6.0 and at wot its as high as 18.0 ohms.Am I missing something here?
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Also, the car is supposed to be fully warmed up in order to test the voltages on the TPS. This is to ensure that the fast idle cam seperates. If you don't want to start it and warm it up, then make sure you reach under there and open up the fast idle cam by hand.
I knew I was missing something guys.Thanx everyone for the help.Quick question.Am I checking dc voltages or ac voltages? Im not very smart when it comes to electrical systems and what not.But If I have solid instructions I can usually figure anything out.
theres a egi relay and theres also an egi fuse.I found the fuse on the thin little fuse box that attaches to the positive terminal of the battery.
Does anyone know what voltage I need to set the multimeter to in order to properly calibrate it?
AC or DC?
Does anyone know what voltage I need to set the multimeter to in order to properly calibrate it?
AC or DC?
DC
Also, did you disconnect the battery when you worked on the TB?
IF not, that may have been why you blew the fuse in the first place.
Also if you have a PFC, it's about a 1000 times easier set the TPS correctly.
Also, did you disconnect the battery when you worked on the TB?
IF not, that may have been why you blew the fuse in the first place.
Also if you have a PFC, it's about a 1000 times easier set the TPS correctly.
there should be a little paint on the screws of the tps where you can line it up. also as you figured out it wont stop the car from starting. the main symptom I had when I left it unplugged once was the rpms floated while shifting gears
yeah the car is driveable.Well sort of.Between the misaligned tps and the coolant leak from the overflow tank I have my work cut out for me in trying to figure out why the hell this is happening.I swear.Everytime I fix a problem a new one arises.Or sometimes two or three problems all of a sudden show up.What a pain in the ***.I swear if this was any onther car I would have sold the damn thing a long time ago.
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