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totalled, engine swap

Old Jun 24, 2006 | 01:11 PM
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Question totalled, engine swap

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Last edited by Mahjik; Jun 26, 2006 at 06:59 AM.
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Old Jun 24, 2006 | 02:20 PM
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Question totalled, engine swap

Well I totalled my 05/92 build touring FD about a month ago, after I'd just had the engine rebuilt last august. The engine block was not damaged in the accident though, so I chose to retain the vehicle from insurance and take the lesser payout.

Fortunately, I found another 05/92 touring FD that had 90k miles on it's engine (which wouldn't even start) and it was time for a rebuild. So I'm buying that one and had my engine put in it by a non-Mazda specialist. I had little choice, for reasons I won't explain here because it's not important.

Everything works now in the "new" FD, but it won't pass smog and the first turbo doesn't kick in and it idles between 1500 and 2000 (ridiculous). Obviously the shop, while doing a great job pulling my engine out of my totalled car and putting what to them was a strange engine into a car they probably never work on ... missed something somewhere and didn't hook something up right.

Any ideas?

I've talked to a few rotary enthusiasts on the phone who say it could be as simple as a vacuum line or something like that not hooked up right that could be causing all three problems...

I just need it to pass smog right now though so I can get the loan from the bank to buy the car from him now that my engine's in it. Power and idle are obviously important, but it's the non-smog pass that's holding up the actual purchase, which is the main thing at this point.
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Old Jun 24, 2006 | 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by SkySteve77
Any ideas?

I've talked to a few rotary enthusiasts on the phone who say it could be as simple as a vacuum line or something like that not hooked up right that could be causing all three problems...
Well, they are right. That's like telling the doctor that 'something feels strange'. He's got to have hands on to actually find the real problem.

As with any car having problems, the first place to start is by checking the engine codes. If that is reporting a problem, it make fix most of what's happening.

Next, you need to do an accurate boost test. Just saying the primary isn't working right doesn't really provide enough information for someone to offer advice.
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Old Jun 24, 2006 | 06:25 PM
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another one bites the dust. good luck on your new FD.
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Old Jun 24, 2006 | 06:26 PM
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4 rotor 964 lol
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have you checked your air pump ? can you see the belts turning freely ? are there any strange noises coming from the engine bay ?
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Old Jun 24, 2006 | 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by SkySteve77
I've talked to a few rotary enthusiasts on the phone who say it could be as simple as a vacuum line or something like that not hooked up right that could be causing all three problems...
I agree. I would download the vacuum hose diagram, print it out big, and tape it to the wall by the car. Then cross off each hose as you check its routing. They HAVE to be correct.

Dave
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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 02:19 AM
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well, the primary doesn't kick in at all. secondly, the check engine light isn't coming on at all
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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 02:26 AM
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It's also worth nothing that there is no check engine light coming on. All belts run smoothly, the engine itself runs totally smoothly. there's just an issue with power and idle and smog. the idle doesn't fluctuate constantly, only when the fan comes on and it goes from 1.5 to about 1.9 rpms. should only be going from 800 to 1000 occassionally on idle depending on the electronics that are turned on.
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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by SkySteve77
well, the primary doesn't kick in at all. secondly, the check engine light isn't coming on at all
The engine light doesn't have to come on to store codes. There are many codes that get stored but never trigger the light to flash. Just pull the codes and see if anything is there.


If you are getting secondary boost but no primary, start with the Turbo Pre-Control operation.
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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 06:58 PM
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Good news! Took it to a Mazda shop today - the idle was simply the throttle control, and the car passes smog now with flying colors - the car had been driven about 300 miles between the initial test and this one - whatever was in the exhaust system must have been blown out with all that driving.

Still a primary turbo issue though... it's not even spooling at all.
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