time to rebuild :D progress updated
03-11-08, 10:03 PM
#81
well i finished it on the 8th(no finished pictures yet) just putting in fluids and i will be firing it up sometime next week. rotary resurrection has a good guide on how to start a rebuild that i will be following. hopefully everything goes well. added a few more things to the build like r1 dual oil cooler setup, a hyperion fuel surge cover from the GB(great looking product) and i changed the center gauge holder to the ati Epod type, since i got a good deal from the guys out at xs engineering and i will be fitting 60mm apexi meters. so i just need to add motor oil, fill the tranny with some RP 75w-90, and some spark plugs and all should be good.
03-13-08, 06:58 PM
#84
ati gauge pod. it looks better than in pictures. fitment is good. construction is decent except for the 2 rear tabs that hold it down, they both broke on the first test fitting, they are way too weakly made. doesn't really matter though the pod stays in secure with the front two. it fits both 52 and 60mm gauges, because of interchangeable rubber inserts. pretty cool
03-21-08, 12:35 AM
#85
apexi EL water temperature gauge installed
for the sender i decided to go with dale's method using the throttle body line for various reason, read about it here in dale's thread: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/water-temp-sender-thermostat-housing-bad-idea-392910/
for the apexi temp sender i used a 3 way 1/4" tee and two 3/8 barbs with a 1/4" fittings. i used 2 hose clamps, and wrapped threaded hardware with teflon tape. a copper crush washer was used between the sensor and fitting surface. i purchased fittings at ace hardware, $6.99 for the tee and $2.99 for each 3/8" hose barb. teflon tape was $1.49. crush washers are a few cents a piece, mine came packaged with the gauge. so the total cost for this type of temp sensor mounting is ~$15. the way i like to run the wiring/hoses into the cabin is by removing the driverside fender to gain access to the rubber grommet. every other way is a pain in the ***.
it tucks away nicely.
for the apexi temp sender i used a 3 way 1/4" tee and two 3/8 barbs with a 1/4" fittings. i used 2 hose clamps, and wrapped threaded hardware with teflon tape. a copper crush washer was used between the sensor and fitting surface. i purchased fittings at ace hardware, $6.99 for the tee and $2.99 for each 3/8" hose barb. teflon tape was $1.49. crush washers are a few cents a piece, mine came packaged with the gauge. so the total cost for this type of temp sensor mounting is ~$15. the way i like to run the wiring/hoses into the cabin is by removing the driverside fender to gain access to the rubber grommet. every other way is a pain in the ***.
it tucks away nicely.
03-21-08, 08:34 AM
#86
04-05-08, 02:37 AM
#87
yeah rich stock intake with adam c's heat shield cai mod. keeps the police off my *** if they ever try to rape me here in CA. the aluminum is just blocking off the a/c / battery portion of the duct. extension of the ram/collector part of the duct would probably b nice too.. maybe the next time i have it apart.
still haven't started the thing but maybe tomorrow school eats my time like no other
still haven't started the thing but maybe tomorrow school eats my time like no other
04-23-08, 11:12 PM
#88
guess what guys..
i just got my rebuild started 15 min ago 
. i went thru and checked all the connectors to make sure they were seated.. she fired up 1st try, didn't have to fight it at all. sounded a bit rough so i held the idle up at 1k for 15 seconds, took it out of first and put it into N and let go of the gas.. held idle perfectly.
smoke was pouring out the exhaust, cool to see everything coming together finally, its just been over a year (4/20/07). only 2 issues i noticed.. exhaust smoke is coming out somewhere around the turbo side/downpipe area. ive always had this issue (noticed it during defloods). i have new gaskets mostly. not sure what is leaking that i may have missed. everything looked good during assembly. second issue.. check engine light stays lit, not sure what this may indicate, should i diagnose this before running the car again?
i smell like **** and the house and garage and filled with smoke but this is awesome.
. i went thru and checked all the connectors to make sure they were seated.. she fired up 1st try, didn't have to fight it at all. sounded a bit rough so i held the idle up at 1k for 15 seconds, took it out of first and put it into N and let go of the gas.. held idle perfectly.smoke was pouring out the exhaust, cool to see everything coming together finally, its just been over a year (4/20/07). only 2 issues i noticed.. exhaust smoke is coming out somewhere around the turbo side/downpipe area. ive always had this issue (noticed it during defloods). i have new gaskets mostly. not sure what is leaking that i may have missed. everything looked good during assembly. second issue.. check engine light stays lit, not sure what this may indicate, should i diagnose this before running the car again?
i smell like **** and the house and garage and filled with smoke but this is awesome.
04-23-08, 11:33 PM
#89
fun, pulling codes now
05 - Knock sensor
16 - EGR valve (California only)
25 - Solenoid valve (pressure regulator control)
how to and info on codes taken from: http://www.fd3s.net/engine_codes.html
05 - Knock sensor
16 - EGR valve (California only)
25 - Solenoid valve (pressure regulator control)
how to and info on codes taken from: http://www.fd3s.net/engine_codes.html
Last edited by sevensix; 04-23-08 at 11:50 PM.
