Throttle Body Coolant Line Delete

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May 8, 2005 | 04:59 AM

#51

damian

DDH Motorsports

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From: Minnesota

I removed the entire wax thermal housing from the throttle body, along with all coolant lines and aws and double throttle... my car idles fine by the way :-)

May 8, 2005 | 02:22 PM

#52

Jesuscookies

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I can haz rotary?

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From: Southern California

Quote:

Originally Posted by damian

I removed the entire wax thermal housing from the throttle body, along with all coolant lines and aws and double throttle... my car idles fine by the way :-)

May 8, 2005 | 04:04 PM

#53

gcthree

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Joined: Mar 2001

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From: Garden City, New York, USA

Quote:

Originally Posted by damian

I removed the entire wax thermal housing from the throttle body, along with all coolant lines and aws and double throttle... my car idles fine by the way :-)

I did exactly the same, as well as the EGR valve/solenoid, and the car refuses to idle, and runs excessively rich. I've replaced the coils, plugs, plug wires, removed the UIM and checked all hose connections, and just checked the MAP sensor. It ran fine before I took it apart- except for a boost issue that had just cropped-up. I'd accept a good running motor with a boost problem at this point....

I'm about to start it up again, and check that all plugs are firing with a timing light. If that's ok, I'm going to plug in my stock ECU and see what happens.

Jan 16, 2007 | 10:02 PM

#54

1QWIK7

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From: Secaucus, New Jersey

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaleClark

Yep, it can be removed. The only thing you have to do is remove or disable the thermowax on the throttle body, or you'll have a permanently high (1500 RPM) idle.

Cap both nipples off - the one on the water pump housing and the one on the back of the block. Do NOT just get cheesy rubber caps from the Help! section - they will fail in record time. I always take the stock line, cut a small portion, plug it with a bolt, and use 2 hose clamps - one on the nipple, one on the bolt. Seems a little cheesy, but it works great and won't fail on you.

Or, if you're really enterprising, drill/tap and plug the holes, or have them welded shut.

Dale

THANK GOD for this thread.

Now i know why my idle doesnt go below 1500rpm.

Damn you guys are smart

Jan 16, 2007 | 10:15 PM

#55

edwin-82/rx7

7-itis

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From: UPSTATE New York

And I thought it was someone hinting that I should search:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/complete-tb-coolant-line-bypass-614755/

Jan 16, 2007 | 10:24 PM

#56

1QWIK7

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From: Secaucus, New Jersey

Quote:

Originally Posted by edwin-82/rx7

And I thought it was someone hinting that I should search:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=614755

LOL nah, cause your thread actually reminded me of the problem i have with my car.

Thank god i got a hunch on searching cause tomorrow or thursday, i was gonna go nuts trying to figure out what to do.

Now i know what to do. Either put those coolant hoses back on the TB, or wire my fast cam.

Jan 16, 2007 | 11:02 PM

#57

edwin-82/rx7

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From: UPSTATE New York

I'd skip the wire, and just remove the spring from the screw so it bottoms out. Looks a bit cleaner and its faster.

Glad you got it figured out!

Jun 8, 2007 | 08:30 AM

#58

CareBear

Full Member

Joined: May 2006

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From: Norway

Is the fast idle cam the spring that is "connected" to the Warm-up plunger?

I completely removed and blocked the Warm-up plunger AND the spring that it's connected too. Will this screw up my idle completely and is there any other modification I need to do or should this setup work?

Instructions on what I did: http://fdboy.com/modifications/#AWS