Yes 12 psi. If you are saying 15psi, that's incredibly irresponsible of you. You should know as well and anyone that the stock turbos should not be run at 15psi, as they are rediculously ineffecient spinning that fast. The intake air gets way to hot, regardless of the intercooler. Not to mention anyone paying all the money it would require in upgrades to run 15psi, shouldn't be skimping trying to push the stock twins that hard.

 

Heh, guys please dont turn this into another arguement thread on which is better, non-seq, or seq. There are already a few other threads that have all that in 'em already.

I was just curious since most of said arguements/debates happened 1-3 years ago, what everyone who at that time had converted to non-seq still thought about their setup.

The reason I am curious about this is because I have all my rats nest/intake manifold etc taken out, along with the fuel injectors (which are going to RC here in a day or so), and Im seriously considering doing the conversion now, while I got my car apart. My car is BONE stock at the moment, but I can have a downpipe and a replacement straight pipe (for main cat) on the car before I finish the conversion, if I decide to do it. Also while I have the turbos off I could have any cracks welded and maybe port them a little bit.

I do NOT mind extra lag. I agree with jimlab on that. If you are cruising through town in 3rd gear and expect power right when you hit the go peddal, you shoulda bought a LS1, not a high revving turbo motor. Besides all that, I like the simplicity of a non-seq, and I believe its better for the motor/turbos due to a more even wear on them. Both turbos will heat cycle the same amount of times, and I also like the linear power delivery. Its all preference. Both non-seq and seq have their pros and cons.

Anyway, more opinions from those who did the conversion would be welcome. Thanks

 

Nice Jim

 

 

Newsflash for the forsaken one: The FD was originally designed for instant go pedal response, and many like it for that as well as other attributes. Port your wg before going ns.

 

This is just an opinion. I think the flapper on the manifold will have some effect on the cumbustion chamber of the rear rotor. Having a "plug" on the exhaust path is a big restriction, I think that's why mazda put the knock sensor back there. This is just an opinino not a fact.

 

Recently went NS when my motor popped. I now have a Streetported Gotham motor vs stock before. I also port matched and ported everything I could get my hands on including the WG. I have full exhaust, IC, fuel and intake. That being said after 1400 miles (including break in) I love it. The lull and surge of seq is gone. I have full boost before 4k and it just keeps pulling. For around town driving its just fine. If I really want to move I downshift but even without shifting its still fast enough to get me where I'm going. A twins setup is probably next but thats a lot of $$ away, in the mean time I'll keep the boost controller turned down so I dont see 18 psi (!) again. 15 isnta problem though (keep in mind I'm at 6k ft)

 

Are you saying that your motor popped BECAUSE you went NS? Because that doesnt make sense unless you let the boost get out of control.

 

There's no way going NS will pop an engine. Tell us the setup and the details of how it broke.

 

I think he ment since his motor blew, he decided to go NS since it was out, and he loves it.