Your complaining about newb advice and you can't or don't know about pressure testing the coolant system. Man, you may be the newb. Not trying to flame anybody, just my thought after reading the thread.

I suggest a pressure test and then watch for a coolant leak (leave it pressurized for at leastr 20 min). If you see none, then start it. If you have any white smoke that smells sweat, I'll bet it is your coolant seal in the engine. I forget, but if your turbos are water cooled they could burn it to. I think this condition will show white smoke under boost. Not sure. Otherwise the coolanat system is like any other car. Watch for leaks. The leaks could be over a hot spot and not leaving water on the ground. If you have coolanat over flowing into you over flow tank, this may also be a symptom of a damage coolant seal. This lets combustion gases into the coolant system therefore over pressurizing the system.

Who wants to take bets that its his new reman engine coolant seal?I have heard of this happening to may people. Miy friend included. Shop rebuilt his engine free of charge becuase it was still in the break in period.

Good Luck, let us know.

P.S. If some of my info uis wrong please chime in and correct it.

Thanks

 

Sorry, I didn't mean to sound like an *******, it just came out that way.

Good Luck

 

My car kept throwing the add coolant light every few days and I tracked it down to my coolant level sensor mounted on the thermostat housing. The plastic sensor had cracked and was losing water vapor through the sensor and it's o-ring seal. $60+ later i had the problem fixed. Good thing I didn't post first otherwise I would of gone out and bought a rebuild. Moral is to check everything else first. A pressure test is a good way to start.

 

Yes, I agree. Check and then double check.

 

Not to be an *** but you need to watch the noob comments. Many of the people responding would never had to ask this question, so who does that make the noob?

Childish bullshit aside.

Your caps seem to be the easy answer. Try the easy **** first. If you cant solve the problem through that and still cant find a leak, than maybe you should look into pressure testing.

BTW:
My car does not smoke at startup. Unless your premixing, most good running cars dont. Also, if your car smokes white on startup, than means your burning coolant. But im sure you knew that since your the "Anti Noob"

 

wtf??? something is definitely wrong with you, I"M TALKING ABOUT THE NOOBS WHO COMMENT "FIRST" ON THAT MY ENGINE BLEW OR IS ABOUT TO BLOW. WTF IS WRONG WITH YOU PEOPLE?! COMPRENDE?

 

look people let me get this straight, I'm not flaming all noobs and not complaining that they exist on this forum. I once was a noob and I'm still learning. All Im complaining about is the fact that some uneducated people come in the threads and other's threads and comment on the engine being blown or about to blow. That gives many uneasy feelings and angry that their engine is about to blow. And then later on it ends up being some stupid little problem that had nothing to do with the engine condition. UNDERSTAND??? STOP FLAMING when you dont fully understand.

 

Yes, I am sorry for how I came off in my first post. I have seen more blown motors due to coolant seals then anything else. It is just about the weakest link. Sorry for jumping to that conclusion, but it does sound like that.

The more relevant question is, Why did you have to replace the rad and hoses?

Also what was the original failure on your old motor?

With the stock gauge being so accurate, you can easily over heat it without even knowing about it.

 

bro just sing the losing coolant song

only me and ricola555 get that though

yur losing coolant quit crying like a bitch and pressure test yur weak *** reman. I really hope it's not that because I know the work it takes to R&R a motor. I've seen it done before

Do the mods in my sig and your car will be straight

 

Nice catch. That area is very prone to damage in a hose job.

The coolant pressure test is easy if you have an aftermarket AST and the pressure test kit borrowed from AutoZone. You'll need special adapters to fit the stock AST or water pump housing caps. If you have a leak you'll see it pretty quickly. It may help to wash your engine bay first.

Dave

 

no points taken
my previous motor was abused by the previous owner who stomped on it like dumasss all the time. he simply didn't care about the car yet he two of them. It blew shortly after I had it under my posession. I replaced the radiator just for reliability mods. I had installed the Koyo rad, Petite AST, vacuum hose job, and coolant hose job. I also have a boost gauge and a water temp gauge. But the water temp gauge isn't installed yet. Having trouble figuring out how to connect an electronic water temp gauge.

 

oh

 

Most shops will have a pressure tester. Otherwise the local auto parts store should. This is something you can do on your own. All it is, is a device that replaces one of your rad caps and it has a hand pump with a pressure gauge. Pump that bitch up to 14 psi or so, then wait and watch. Most caps are rated to 16 psi, so that might be closer to the target pressure.

If you have no drop in pressure over time (I don't know, hows 20 min sound), then your cooling system is probably sealed. I would then hunt down sensors that will throw this error.

Good Luck

 

When I first posted on this thread I said I had something similar happening and mine happened to be a bad coolant seal so I just told you of my experience with a similar problem, I also mentioned the "burping" of the system which has nothing to do with a "blown" engine. If you don't want everyone to try and help you why don't you say "only people with 1500 + posts respond." Sometime even people who don't have very many posts can know something too. Sorry if someone saying your engine might have a bad seal offends you, but until you get the affor mention pressure tests you can't fully rule out that possibility.

 

I agree on the post count. Just because someone has alot of posts doesn't mean their an expert or vice versa. You have to sort through all the bullsh*t and see what works for you. Most of the time I just browse through the forum and get everyone's opinion and research from there. Good Luck!

 

I had a coolant problem with my vert a few years ago. I finally took it to a reliable shop. They could not find a leak until the second test.

It turned out to be a very small cut that only leaked under pressure and in a area that was not easilly seen.

If I were you, I would go find a good shop and have them do the test. It should cost amost nothing to get it done.

 

.

 

There's probably a leak in your overflow line (to the bottle) - when hot it will push coolant out past your rad cap - but will suck air back in when it cools.

I had the same problem turned out there was a coupling in the line that wasn't sealing properly.

Mike