Was thinking about coating some rotor housings.
10-19-07, 04:54 AM
#1
Was thinking about coating some rotor housings.
JHB coats rotors and rotor housings with Cermet X, I was thinking about doing this on my next engine re-build.Along with NRS ceramic apex seals. Soto have all coated will be ideal but will coast a fortune.
The main reason im not thinking about a basic re-build is because im going to run a 500R at 28psi. (high boost) low maybe 17psi. with out AI or water injection.Do you guys think I can run this much boost with everything coated?
Maybe just go with a great re-build w/o the coating an add AI or water injection.Has anyone ever used these coatings on any rotors, or housings?
The main reason im not thinking about a basic re-build is because im going to run a 500R at 28psi. (high boost) low maybe 17psi. with out AI or water injection.Do you guys think I can run this much boost with everything coated?
Maybe just go with a great re-build w/o the coating an add AI or water injection.Has anyone ever used these coatings on any rotors, or housings?
10-19-07, 06:11 AM
#2
You wouldn't be able to run that much boost on pump gas with apex seals made of titanium. On race gas, it's not going to matter much what your rotors are coated with.
Why are you going all out but skimping on the auxliary injection? Compaired to the other things you want done, that's the cheap part...
Also, I wouldn't trust JHB at all. Go read RotaryRessurection's thread in the Bad Guy section.
Why are you going all out but skimping on the auxliary injection? Compaired to the other things you want done, that's the cheap part...
Also, I wouldn't trust JHB at all. Go read RotaryRessurection's thread in the Bad Guy section.
10-19-07, 06:20 AM
#3
I think their apex seals are reg. ones but just coated with cermex stuff.
So you think the best way to go is a good re-build and AI?
Also I really want to run that boost but on pump gas. so thats why i would like to go coated or AI.
Thanks for the tip I will check out bad guy section.
So you think the best way to go is a good re-build and AI?
Also I really want to run that boost but on pump gas. so thats why i would like to go coated or AI.
Thanks for the tip I will check out bad guy section.
10-19-07, 07:14 AM
#6
NO . they say they don't grind they use some special chemical to take off the chrome.
The X one is a lot though. Like for super high horse power.
I read the bad guy thread and it seems like he got the B version, but service is service. If it was bad then I will take it for what it was worth. Ie: turn around and customer support.
The X one is a lot though. Like for super high horse power.
I read the bad guy thread and it seems like he got the B version, but service is service. If it was bad then I will take it for what it was worth. Ie: turn around and customer support.
10-19-07, 09:04 AM
#7
Will work for horsepower
Im running b coatings on rotors and housings 8:50 compression 3 mil seals, so far so good but i cant say im not nervous. I have run 10.8 at 127 and its been very dependable, even running 20 lbs on 93 oct. But its all in the miles i can get out of the motor. I do have about everything thats avaliable as far as parts and a few i have built that wernt avaliable. I think i would just go with new parts and find a tunner that knows what to do and is willing to do it. If i run 25 lbs i plan on running 30% methonal as i really like the cooling propertys and octane level. Good luck. 
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10-19-07, 09:10 AM
#8
WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!! BUSTED! you are running that! on B!(#*(!#*!#
Its these stories that make me want to go X! I just want to run huge HP with no worries. You know do it once and that it!!!!!!!Im willing to go 12,000 for an engine if its going to hold 100k . at 550 at the wheels.
Its these stories that make me want to go X! I just want to run huge HP with no worries. You know do it once and that it!!!!!!!Im willing to go 12,000 for an engine if its going to hold 100k . at 550 at the wheels.
10-19-07, 09:17 AM
#9
You know, people were running high horsepower on these motors before Cermet was a household name. They'll be doing it after as well. IMO, running higher numbers like that, I would look to build a more disposable motor since you know its going to break at some point.
10-19-07, 11:13 AM
#10
Will work for horsepower
Im making 480 at 20 lbs but i have dowled motor balanced, special seals
and cooling mods out the ***, oil mods, lots of fuel 10.5 afr, low compression t2 rotors, and haltech tunned by Steve Kan. But i dont expect to go near 100,00 miles. I only drive the car when its nice other than that it sets in the garage. I have 25,000 in the car above the price of the car just to go to the track once in a while and cruse the streets. And i do all of the work on the car except build the motor and performance tune. Its not cheap but i like the rotary motor even if its not dependable. Im part of 417 motorsports and putting a lsx motor in the car would be easy but i like the challenge. In fact we took three cars to the lsx show in Memphis and won multiple awards with all three cars including best hybrib with our 240 sx turbo 6 liter. Like mahjic said just build it right tune it right and expect to replace it when it blows! 
and cooling mods out the ***, oil mods, lots of fuel 10.5 afr, low compression t2 rotors, and haltech tunned by Steve Kan. But i dont expect to go near 100,00 miles. I only drive the car when its nice other than that it sets in the garage. I have 25,000 in the car above the price of the car just to go to the track once in a while and cruse the streets. And i do all of the work on the car except build the motor and performance tune. Its not cheap but i like the rotary motor even if its not dependable. Im part of 417 motorsports and putting a lsx motor in the car would be easy but i like the challenge. In fact we took three cars to the lsx show in Memphis and won multiple awards with all three cars including best hybrib with our 240 sx turbo 6 liter. Like mahjic said just build it right tune it right and expect to replace it when it blows!
10-19-07, 04:42 PM
#12
The only coatings that exist with such good tolerances either are very thin (useless for this application) or are thick enough to be coated thick and finish ground to the proper final dimensions.
Dave
10-19-07, 08:21 PM
#13
Taking off the existing chrome is just surface prep. I mean what is done to ensure the finished surface of the cermet is as smooth and perfect as a stock housing?
The only coatings that exist with such good tolerances either are very thin (useless for this application) or are thick enough to be coated thick and finish ground to the proper final dimensions.
Dave
The only coatings that exist with such good tolerances either are very thin (useless for this application) or are thick enough to be coated thick and finish ground to the proper final dimensions.
Dave
10-19-07, 09:06 PM
#14
Taking off the existing chrome is just surface prep. I mean what is done to ensure the finished surface of the cermet is as smooth and perfect as a stock housing?
The only coatings that exist with such good tolerances either are very thin (useless for this application) or are thick enough to be coated thick and finish ground to the proper final dimensions.
Dave
The only coatings that exist with such good tolerances either are very thin (useless for this application) or are thick enough to be coated thick and finish ground to the proper final dimensions.
Dave
http://jhbperformance.com/technical.php
While I don't think I would personally use them, I'm sure they know their stuff.
10-20-07, 03:55 PM
#17
I've been thinking about cermet coated rotors, but after reading the thread that kevin started ive become very skeptical. I sent JHB an email with my concerns, hopefully ill get a reply soon. For the record I was planning on running the B coating only because I dont plan on more than 380 whp.
10-20-07, 04:06 PM
#18
I've been thinking about cermet coated rotors, but after reading the thread that kevin started ive become very skeptical. I sent JHB an email with my concerns, hopefully ill get a reply soon. For the record I was planning on running the B coating only because I dont plan on more than 380 whp.
10-20-07, 06:49 PM
#20
I believe it was around $300. As for the damage, I can't say for certain that it happened before or after SwainTech had the rotor. It was packed good by them and I packed it good on the way to them. However, there is no telling what UPS did to and from them. Its possible SwainTech dropped it. There were too many variables involved for me to directly point the finger at SwainTech and said they messed it up. Considering the amount of business they do for professional racers, I would chalk it up to UPS.
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