Sr20fd3st

so my coolant temp gauge wasnt working cause i just put the motor back in and i think missed that plug. filled it up with coolant let it run to get the air out, filled it again. took it for a drive and after about 1 minute a big exlosion of white coolant smoke out the ***. i parked and found that my coolant return hose on the turbo cracked and spilled a **** load of coolant down without me noticing somehow. of course there was no BEEEEEP to alert me of this, and i was goin about 45 so any steam probably just got sucked under the car and blew away without me seeing anything. atfirst i thought id reroute the coolant line around the turbo to see if it was the turbos or the motor. but then it occured to me that the coolant probably doesnt encounter any seals in the turbo. i tried to start it and it sounded like a machine gun going off. my guess is that there wasnt hardly any compression to get it to turn over. i finally got it to start just barely and it idled pretty steady, and at the same vac it always has, about ~15 or so. so compression started to escape my concern. though i cant see why it had trouble starting. once i had it running again it only smoked slightly. (this was after of course i ran to the store and got a few gallons of water to fill it up again and got a new hose from autozone to keep it from leaking). i decided to take it around the block and as soon as i pulled onto the road the big huge smoke of white happened again. I parked it once more and again had trouble starting it up again. i already put a coolant leak at the tb gasket out of the question since the tb coolant is eliminated. i was ready to sell it too, which of course makes things worse. can anyone verify that im fucked? thanks

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

If you overheated the motor, you could have fried a coolant o-ring. This would lead to the hard starting......

Sr20fd3st

is there any way to fix that externally. what is a Block Weld? I'm thinking about using the block tester at work to detect combustion in the coolant system.

Sr20fd3st

also. it only gets bad after its warmed up and the system has been pressurized. would it help to use evan's non-pressurizing coolant?

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

i could definately be wrong, but doesnt non-pressurinzing coolant mean that it will not build pressure with heat? if you seal is blown it wont make a difference cuz its not the heat thats causing the pressure build up its the exhaust gases

impactwrench

Why is'nt the name of this forum the"Do a compression test /Champagne test first", forum?.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Pull the EGI relay, remove both leading plugs and crank it a few times. If you have coolant shooting out of the spark plug holes, you have an o-ring problem.

the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

Yep it's blown. Theres your verification.

Sr20fd3st

if exhaust was pressuziring the coolant it wouldnt be coming out my exhaust like it does. i was thinking a non-pressure cooland wouldnt build pressure in the system and seep into the combustion chamber. it only smokes bad after its warm and pressure build up enough, im guessing, to squueze past whats left of the coolant seals.

Sr20fd3st

k next Q. i dont need the whole damn thing rebuilt ifits just a coolant seal right? whats my cheapest route to go? im lwo on dough and want to sell this car

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

The apex seals wear by design. Eventually, they will need to be replaced. The entire engine needs to be torn apart to replace damaged o-rings as well as all the parts inspected for wear. If the engine has a lot of miles on it, chances are there is a lot of wear and parts will need to be replaced.

*IF* you do need a rebuild, talk to Kevin at: http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/

impactwrench

It(coolant) can come in on the intake as well.

Sr20fd3st

coolant can get sucked into the intake without boost just above idle? i have the tb coolant removed.

Sr20fd3st

today i bypassed the coolant to the turbo and just linked the turbo in to the turbo out on the block so the turbos saw no coolant and let it idle. i gave it a few revs that resulted in a good ammount of smoke but after about 10 minutes it cleared up and there was no smoke in the exhaust at all, besides a little oil but that's beside my interest. i drove it around the blokc and a little bit of oil was burning out the back. this may be because the vacuum line to the rear oil injector slipped of so it might just be giving excess oil, or the whole turbo got cooked and the oil seals went out also. either way, the coolant burning stopped when i bypassed the turbos. i'll do further testing like compression testing, and a block test to locate any possible combustion in the coolant.