Well I been searching for sometime for the right RX-7 and finally found one that I like. I have made and offer on it and the buyer excepted. I plan to fly out soon to pick it up. Now I ask that any experts help me figure out if this specific car is in reliable condition. I included the specs as the owner had listed them below without giving away which car it is or offending the seller if they use this forum.




Miles: 86.000 on chassis and 1.000 on Brand new engine
Brand new Factory Mazda Engine just put in.
Estimated rwhp:340hp - Estimated with current 15 PSi and non-seq set up
Transmission: Manual 5 Speed [All Synchros are good]

Modifications & Upgrades:

Complete Engine Management – APEX’I Fuel Computer w/ Commander
DATALOGIT System for fine tuning
Tuned for max of 16psi - by Steve Kan @ GothamRacing
Catback Exhaust system (3”) – APEX’I N1
Dowpipe - BONEZ (wideband bung added)
Intakes (Custom 3” black) – K&N filters
850cc Injectors x 4 (capable of 390rwhp) – BLITZ
AST Tank heavyduty - PETTIT
InterCooler (large stockmount upgrade) - PETER FARREL SUPERCARS
Coolant Pressure Cap (1 bar) GREDDY
Clutch (stage 1 by Rx7.com) - BONEZ
Tranny Fluid – RED LINE MT90
Fuel Pump – WALBRO 255 lt/ph
Grounding System – SUPEREARTH (japanese)
Boost Controller (electronic) – GREDDY Profec B, 2 stage
02 Sensor – BOSCH brand new
Short Shifter – B&M (best on the market)
Block Off Plates (for single turbo or stock non sequential use)
Battery (small 51R size) DIEHARD (bought Nov. 03) w/ Tie down for Battery
Radiator Hoses – MAZDAformance brand new w/ engine


Car has clean title, meaning never wrecked or flooded. Carfax report included. Car has not been abused, almost every thing has been replaced (coolant lines, A/C, fuel components, etc) and used Valvoline 10w/40. I searched for a Touring Model for the daily driving comfort and added the mods to make it a beast on any situation (road race, drag, street) Its tuned for driveability and all out performance by the best FD tuner in the world (Steve Kan of GothamRacing) He has also personally worked on the car.


What else should I check or ask before flying out to buy this car?

My only worry is that he said the A/C does not blow cold. He stated " A line is leaking coming from the line off the dryer and tht it will cost $125 to fill an empty system, and the rest on labor/welding or parts to fix leak. Around a total of $250.00 total. What do you guys think?"

 

if its your first one, i would say by one close to stock because yea its fast and all but the more hp you make, the more **** breaks! that's just my take on what you should do! then again im only 17 and going for a single turbo conversion so who am i to say!

 

Ok I own a 2004 Subaru WRX STi (300HP stock and AWD) and am a responsible adult. That change things? LOL

 

He's mostly likely right about the AC repair, I just had one filled for $150 or so. You can probably find a used line off the forum and put it in your self for $50.

A clean Carfax does not mean the car has never been wrecked.

Sounds like a good car, just look it over when you get there.

 

All of which makes you neither an expert or experienced owner.

 

LOL very nice reply but in his defense: you never know he may have a lot of knowledge of the car itself even though he has not been driving for an exteded time

 

The car sounds good. Overall you are taking an easier path, by getting the car with the mods, instead of doing them yourself. A lot of expense has been eliminated, but you won't know as much about how your mods work.

The AC may or may not be expensive to fix. You will need a dye charge and a blue light to see where it is leaking.
Getting the line should be cheap if you want to go used, because plenty of people here have removed their AC.
Replacing the line may or may not be difficult depending upon which one it is.
If you are extremely lucky, the leak is coming from the o-rings where the lines connect to the drier.

 

it sounds good. i like the fact that he had steve tune the car. i don't like the fact that its non-seq which probably means that at some point he had boost issues he couldn't fix so he went non-seq. i also am curious about why he blew the engine when steve had tuned it. i wonder if he wasn't screwing around himself with the dataloggit/wideband and blew it.

regardless, if the car looks like its in good shape, the temps are good, doesn't blow smoke (too much anyway) synchros shift fine, paint/int good shape, paint is good then why not

 

The RX7 is a totally different car.

TurboJeff is right about the Carfax, it does not reveal accidents. Thats the exact reason why when I bought my RX7s I spent the extra money to have the cars inspected personally by a ASE certified tech.

 

He said Non Seq for everyday driving. Said last engine blew because it was old and ran to rich.

 

Wow thanks for clarifying I never knew that my Horizontally opposed boxter engine was not rotary
Just kidding with the scarasm thanks for info

 

if the only problem is the ac go for it.

If you want your sti to be fast let me know

 

LOL STi is for sale on eBay. Man i love that thing but need to sell it for something cheaper

 

The rx7 isnt really gonna be cheaper if you plan to dd it. Yes the initial cost will be less, but the upkeep will be alot more.

 

Well I am selling mine for over 27 and buying RXy under around 17
10K is a enough for down payment on a house that I am buying

 

You are the one that said the following. Thats why I said that, you made it seem as if driving a WRX STI would allow you to understand the RX7. Just trying to help you out since you were asking opinions from experienced RX7 owners.

"Ok I own a 2004 Subaru WRX STi (300HP stock and AWD) and am a responsible adult."

 

I totally agreed, whether its for maintenence or just fixing something everything can be expensive.

 

Non-seq SUCKS for everyday driving, it basically offers little to NO extra power on the top end and no boost before ~3500-4000rpm. The stock system will give 4-7psi boost at 1700rpm, full boost by ~2300-2500 rpm. That makes a huge difference during in-town driving.

The engine could have blown if it was the original w/86K miles...

 

car looks good, just change the radiator to a better one, it looks like he still has the stock one since it is not listed.

 

He said it is a New Radiator (Same as Stock) but replaced at time of New Engine Installation. He said " rx7.com is where I bought the radiator. they told me id be fine with a stock one. And they know theyre stuff"

 

I'm sure they're just fine as far as cooling , but the stock radiator has plastic end tanks and pegs at the bottom that sit on the very weak stock sway bar mounts, if you accidently go over a bump or pot hole really hard and hit the mounts, you WILL bend them which will most likely shift the radiator and break the plastic. And when that happens, now coolant is spilling everywhere with the buzzer going off and now you notice that your tires are slipping from all green stuff under 'em, all while dodging traffic to find a good spot where you can pull over. Oh, and hopefully somewhere in there you were able to shut that sucker off before the temp needle went up to far. Happened to me twice before I got an all aluminum radiator which actually costs less than the stocker. Btw, one of those times it cost me an Engine.

All I'm saying is just be aware of this and try to fit an aftermarket radiator on your to-do list sometime in the future if you do buy his FD. Or maybe get stronger mounts. I did both. Just my 2 cents.

 

Sounds like rx7.com wanted to get rid of an OEM radiator

 

Quick question. Had the seller take the car to a shop and they said there was a poping noise coming from the rear of the car. The Seller said it is from the differential and that it is normal. Anyone have a take on this

Also the A/C in the car does not work. He said it would cost $250.00 to fix the leak and refil the A/C Freon.
You think that sounds ok? Just scared that I will buy the car and it will cost me a grand to fix the A/C

 

anyone?

 

You won't know, unless you take it to the shop and get a quote, or unless he has the estimate from a reasonable shop.

Noone on this board has any idea how much it will cost.

Is the compressor shot? Does it need a new drier? Where is the leak from?

As for AC refilling, search. Search for Autocool, R-12 and 134. This issue also comes up.

Asking us how much it costs to fix that AC will get you a slightly more informative answer than randomly picking a car from a junkyard and asking us what is wrong with it.