Thermostat: brand? temp? where to buy?
Thread Starter
uid 0
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 858
Likes: 1
From: San Francisco, CA
Thermostat: brand? temp? where to buy?
I'm going to replace my thermostat, just as a preventative piece of mind, and haven't ever done this before.
Are there any differences between brands? What brands have shown themselves to be the most accurate and reliable? What temp should I get for my FD that is run mostly street, but I will be tracking (road racing, not drag) it, so it'll need to be able to handle that.
Where can you buy them (if other than the local Kragen/Autozone)?
TIA,
Patrick
Are there any differences between brands? What brands have shown themselves to be the most accurate and reliable? What temp should I get for my FD that is run mostly street, but I will be tracking (road racing, not drag) it, so it'll need to be able to handle that.
Where can you buy them (if other than the local Kragen/Autozone)?
TIA,
Patrick
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,213
Likes: 0
OEM is probably the most reliable thermostat.
You can get one that opens at low temp but it'll keep your car in cold engine mode which can cause your engine to run rich and foul your plug, waste gas, etc.
You can get one that opens at low temp but it'll keep your car in cold engine mode which can cause your engine to run rich and foul your plug, waste gas, etc.
not too sure about mazda oem, but it shouldn't be more than like $25, and even that is really high for a t-stat. I got a new one for the pusstang for only $7 but mazda likes to charge a lot for theres and since its for an rx7 which may or may not be an ordered part not a in stock one it may be more which is why I said $25. Just a cusion.
Trending Topics
Go with the Mazda OEM. I blew a motor due to a faulty Napa T-stat.
Napa was great about their warranty too. They offered me another T-stat to replace the POS they sold me.
As far as the rebuild? I was out my own $$$$
How do I know it was the POS T-stat?
Less than one month after install, my car overheated in stop & go traffic. Talking to Atkins Rotary in WA about it, they claim 2-3 motors a month die because of aftermarket T-stats.
I checked, my fans were operating normally. I also only had the stock water temp gauge so I had no warning.
Critical items to remember? Burp the system to remove all the air you can prior to starting your motor.
You burp the system by squeezing the upper rad hose, with the rad cap (on the thermostat housing) removed.
Carry a gallon jug of distilled water in your car. If the low coolant buzzer goes off, pull over imeadiatly & add more water. For the next couple of drives, after cool down, check & add water to the AST.
You can check the overfill bottle too, but you want to make sure the AST is always full.
Napa was great about their warranty too. They offered me another T-stat to replace the POS they sold me.
As far as the rebuild? I was out my own $$$$
How do I know it was the POS T-stat?
Less than one month after install, my car overheated in stop & go traffic. Talking to Atkins Rotary in WA about it, they claim 2-3 motors a month die because of aftermarket T-stats.
I checked, my fans were operating normally. I also only had the stock water temp gauge so I had no warning.
Critical items to remember? Burp the system to remove all the air you can prior to starting your motor.
You burp the system by squeezing the upper rad hose, with the rad cap (on the thermostat housing) removed.
Carry a gallon jug of distilled water in your car. If the low coolant buzzer goes off, pull over imeadiatly & add more water. For the next couple of drives, after cool down, check & add water to the AST.
You can check the overfill bottle too, but you want to make sure the AST is always full.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
