And I’m not sure monitoring coolant AND oil temps has much value on a street car...unless you have a gauge fetish.

I agree with Sgtblue that many of the thermal changes I am making on my car do not meet cost-benefit for most people. The amount of temperature change that will be seen for all my ceramic coated intake piping and ducting will probably be 3-5 degrees at most since moving air does not pick up heat to any great degree, particularly with increasing velocity. What I will say though, the temperature of the air at the turbo inlet is a much different story. The cooler the air entering the turbo, the cooler the air is even after compression relatively speaking allowing for the heat of compression. There are several factors at play here. First of all, the turbo efficiency is obviously based on its characteristics and its unique turbo compressor map as well as the turbine efficiency including factors such as backpressure and all the A/R ratios, size, etc. Many of us use WMI at the turbos. The reason for this from the articles I have read several years ago is that the evaporative effect of the water and particularly the methanol, which we all know about, cools the air entering the turbo inlet and therefore increasing the ability of the compressor to compress more air. I have read some articles that it is because of less hot air at the margins of the blades, which is the reason. Some articles say it is simply more air in, more air out(denser air in, denser air out). One article stated it shifted the turbo compressor map by 3-4%, increasing efficiency. An thread on this site from 2012 with a post from Liborek (https://www.rx7club.com/auxiliary-in...-946182/page2/) stated that turbo efficiency can go up by as much as 30%. I don't know exactly why, but most articles I have read believe it works. The ceramic coated downpipe helps backpressure on the turbine side, higher velocity of exhaust leaving. A very high flow cat metal cat, such as the Vibrant 300 cell GESI UHO-Series Catalytic Converter, 3.5" Inlet/Outlet x 4.5" O.D. x 7.5" Overall Length (rated for 500-850HP) really helps the backpressure and moving heat out the exhaust. As you can see, I have done a lot of research on this subject of thermal management through the last 2-3 years with this being just a portion of things I have learned.
All of this, IMO, leads me to believe that most of us through the years, with myself included, have missed one the most important things one can do, allowing for the common mods most of us make with those already described in the above posts, is to bring the coldest intake air possible to the turbo intake inlet. This is for everyone, from the single turbos (big or small) to the remaining twin turbo people like myself. The stock air intake was horrible for thermal efficiency, the '99 front bumper intake helped some but is nearly as bad. IMO, anyone leaving the air intake from a K&N or any other air filter in the engine bay sucking in hot engine and/or radiator air is leaving HP on the table resulting in poorer turbo efficiency, unnecessary turbo stress, and unnecessary increased heat at the turbo, at the intercooler, and then at the engine. The old saying is "garbage in, garbage out." This is why racing cars from Nascar to Indy to even the old Ram air muscle cars of the 1960's to 1970's all had hood scoops or have a large fresh air intake duct in the front of the car or over the top of a rear or mid engine for the coldest air possible. No race car sucks its intake air in from the engine bay or from behind the radiator.
Sorry about the long post. Any thoughts or corrections are appreciated.
Mike

Also some like Pettit shield the intake from radiator air.

No one afaik. You seem inclined to the most complicated
solution. Almost all aftermarket TT intake boxes I’m aware of (including the “cheap bastard” mod of the stock box) source ambient air via the nose of the car from next to the chassis. Plenty of room and you don’t have to relocate anything. I’ve even modded my PFS box for this.

edit: pic (not mine) added...

It’s a far better trade-off for overall thermal management to have a 2nd oil cooler over an intake there. Lower oil temps trump IATs in importance and also helps water temps as the oil is an engine cooling component in the rotary.

I don’t think you’re wrong in your quest. These things add up. I also have an intake that sources cool air from the front for this very reason, but I pull from beside the radiator because my dual oil coolers, radiator, and intercooler duct get priority.

Think of your temps as a hierarcy of importance. Water temp at the top closely followed by oil temps. On this car they’re intertwined as well since oil provides cooling. Then comes intake temps. So I would absolutely pursue lower intake temps, but make sure you’ve maximized the top 2 first. That’s why an oil cooler on the passenger side is the best use of that air.

I think the coolant reservoir hurts airflow out of the passenger oil cooler, but didn’t feel it was worth relocating. I did make vents in the fender liners behind the oil coolers to let air flow thru the cooler better.