goldmember504

What are my options? get a new block? is it worth it? or do a swap? what is a very reliable swap? I just bought a messed up FD with these problems HELP ME

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

mmmm.... I vote oil pan leak.

djseven

iTrader: (56)

If you have a crack in the block near any of the oil passages it would be obvious with the car running. Are you sure it isnt an oil pan leak? Can you physically see the crack? If you can see the crack then it is time to remove it, I have seen posts about people fixing cracks but that depends on your experience level. You can find good used engines or rebuilt ones for a decent price these days and get money back out of your current engine when you part it out or sell it whole where it isnt a huge financial undertaking.

I would verify for sure there is an actual crack before getting too worried. It is pretty common for these cars to have oil leaks.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Calm down. Oil leaks on these cars are fairly common. Clean up the engine block with some degreaser, then run the engine and see if you can see where the oil is leaking.

goldmember504

no i had my mechanic recently change the clutch and everything it is a known crack where we tried to epoxy it, not a crack more like a chip where it meets the transmission.I just got the car back yesterday to see how it would do and its bad. i'm dripping oil everywhere i park. options?

goldmember504

one of the studs that met the flywheel and block broke off and it was playing around in there and nicked a chip off. I don't think i want to get a new block and rebuild the motor, when i could maybe get a 2jz or something like that? thats reliable? or what else can i do?

WaachBack

iTrader: (21)

Spend alot more time reading these forums to get a much better understanding about the RX7. You can then make your decision from there.

I'll say this though, if you can't get the stock motor working correctly, do not even think about putting a 2JZ in there.

nashman69g

iTrader: (3)

Are you in the N.O. area???

Can you take a picture of the area of the leak?

hades

iTrader: (4)

i had trouble determining if my leak started from the oil pan or from a blown front cover gasket.

I cleaned up as much as a could with simple green and brake fluid. I then put uv/black light dye in the oil and ran the car for a minute. Black light showed where the leaks started. Just a thought.

badddrx7

iTrader: (7)

A picture will help us help you !



later

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

If you are dripping oil from the transmission area, it has nothing to do with how it mates to the bellhousing. If you are dripping oil from where the bellhousing mates with the transmission, then you most likely have a rear main seal or o-ring leak.

djseven

iTrader: (56)

2jz swap will run well over $10k doing it yourself, keep that in mind. I offer rebuilt blocks shipped to your door for $2700.00. Since your block is still good minus the rear iron you could tear it down and sell the parts for around $1k. Putting a rotary back in is your cheapest option, its not like the rotary was unreliable on you. You admittedly caused the issue. Put a rotary back in with strong apex seals and enjoy the car.

David

goldmember504

the guy who did the work on my car that it was the O ring, and he knows what's going on because he is an airplane mechanic for Delta.

YO i live on the westbank!

I have a friend who has a LS1 motor. What is all needed to put that in the FD? thanks in advance guys

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

If you want to talk about conversions, there is a section for that. Ask those questions there:

https://www.rx7club.com/other-engine-conversions-non-v-8-118/

The o-ring fix is not that difficult and will be far cheaper than any swap. If you do it, I would suggest replacing the rear main seal while you are there (as well as re-tensioning the engine bolts).

RotaryRX-007

If it's the "o ring" (I/we assume its the rear main seal from your fabulous discriptions so far), then maybe you should replace it before you replace the whole engine? Just a thought.

And just because he's an airplane mechanic doesn't mean he knows what he's doing with a rotary... another one of my thoughts.

goldmember504

I did replace the O ring along with the clutch.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

You actually replaced the "rear stationary gear" o-ring already?

Oil coming from the bellhousing to transmission connection is either the stationary gear o-ring or the rear main seal. If you did them both already, your mechanic did a terrible job of it and should fix it for free.

Andrew

iTrader: (1)

747 != 13B

Like baddrx7 said, a picture would help.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

This thread makes me want to shoot myself.

Goldmember, take pictures and come up with a better description of the problem or this trainwreck is getting closed.

Battle Cat

iTrader: (78)

aggreed, we need a picture. dont always trust mechanics, specially if they dont know rotaries well.

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

but he knows airplanes... so that makes him qualified.

JHew84

iTrader: (9)

, rich, I love your moderation style .

Sounds like a rear main to me as well, I'm having a hard time visualizing a "chip" that would be leaking massive amounts of oil? I dunno... these cars are extremely notorious for springing all sorts of leaks though. Someone not familiar with the 13b could make quite a few mis-diagnosis though, not calling into question the legitimacy of your mechanic, but it's not unheard of...

GreatShamanGT

iTrader: (9)

I think it's the rear main too. This guy sounds really ignorant.

nashman69g

iTrader: (3)

looks like he gave up!!

http://neworleans.craigslist.org/cto/1101717949.html

baggedoutmazda

i say just have your buddy swap in a jet engine, can't fix an oil leak in an fd but can fix planes ? hummmm