anybody?

 

Ok, I did some trouble shooting and here are some of the results.

-I ran an additional ground wire from the sender probe to the frame. The display still shows 375 degrees.

-With the ground still on the sender, I checked main ground for the gauge. I wound up the ground with the dimmer wire and wired them to a bolt under the shifter console. (see pic #1). When I removed the ground gquage would flicker erratically. Put the ground back on the bolt, steady display @ 375 degrees.

-Re-checked all the wires that I twisty-ed and taped up to the main wires coming from the gauge.

-Sender--did I hook up the wiring properly? does it matter how I hok up the wiring to the top part of the sender?

once again here is the order I have the stuff from top to bottom:

-retaining nut
-locking washer
-"cardboard" washer
-ground wire wound up
-wire going to gauge

So what do you guys think? is it the ground location? or a problem with the sender or gauge?

TIA

 

Here are the pics:

This is the ground that I am using for the gauge ground/dimmer. Its the bolt to the left of the bulb.



Ground location I used for the sender.



Pic of the sender assy...is the adapter in the thermo housing far enough?

 

In that location the sender should not need an extra ground (the housing itself acts as the ground), Make sure the sensor wire is not shorting to ground anywhere (in the pic it looks as though the ground wire may be shorting to the sensor wire) the insulating (Cardboard) washer should be between the sensor body and the sensor wire fitting. depending on the gauge & sensor type a grounded sensor wire will cause either a full scale (max) or 0 (min) temp reading.

 

Maxpesce is right. Get rid of that ground wire to the sensor. Also, make sure the sensor wire isn't touching any metal except where is connects to the sensor. This includes the cap on the filler neck.

If your temp gauge has 2 wires for the illumination, connect BOTH of them to the ashtray wires, one to each wire. This will allow the factory dimmer switch to work for your temp gauge lighting.

 

I just did my water and EGT temperature gauges (Defi) a few weeks ago. I have it mounted with the center speaker pod and soldered the power/illumination/ground/and the 4th wire (forgot what it is) to the wiring adapter to my stereo. Works perfectly and dims with the rest of my gauges. I can take pics if anyone is interested.

 

Hey guys,

I am finishing up crimping and wiring everything up yet again. But I just wanted to double check for the location of my gauge ground wire. Do you guys think the one in the pic will be ok, or should I wire up the ground directly to the engine? if on the engine, where exactly should I put it?

Here is the ground on the frame which I am thinking about using. The white wires lead to the location of the ground. BTW I changed out the speaker wire to auto elec wire.

 

The ground by the shifter is fine.

Let us know how it goes.

 

The Gauge itself can be grounded anywhere. Inside the cockpit is OK and easier as you don't have to pull an extra wire through the firewall.
The SENDER should NOT need a ground - it is grounded through the body of the sender..

 

hello again everybody,

I just got done re-wiring everything and guess what? still no worky. I used top quality butt connectors and the cconnectors with the circles for the grounds and still same symptoms as before.

One thing I did do different is the main ground. I grounded the gauge to the frame at first...indicated temps were 375 F. Moved the gauge ground to the 12 mm bolt on the TB, temps went down to 340-350 (back and forth).

So does my problem seem to be me getting a good ground? Also when I moved the ground to the TB I didn't remove the cardboard/plastic looking washer on the sender. I have to wait for the engine to cool down some. But I still have not been able to find the significance of this funky looking washer. Do all temp senders from Autometer, Greddy, etc have a washer that is not made of metal?

When the engine cools down I'm gonna remove my filler cap and take that washer off yet again. and try out different ground locations. I'm also still not sure if the adapter plug is in far enough in the thermohousing. When the car gets warmed up the coolant in the thermohousing expands and rises to the top right? I was thinking that maybe the water isnt touching the sender inside the housing. I will also get some boiling water and test out the sender to make sure it works.

 

Hey guys,

I was doing some more tests in my car and I found that the temps could be changed by turning certains things on/off/up/down.

Once again here's how I have everything wired up:

Red +12V = ignition slot--above fuses under dash slot on the right

Blue = sender--wire is away from alternator

Purple = dimmer--gounded under shifter console

Black = gauge ground--12 mm bolt on upper part of throttle body

Remember I'm not an electrical expert so I have no idea why my car would be behaving this way.

stock temp reading is one tick below mid-point

364 F = all accesories off
360 F = fan 1 (idle ~500 rpm)
360 F = fan 2 (idle ~500 rpm)
349 F = fan 3 (idle ~800 rpm)
345 F = fan 4 (idle ~800 rpm)
338 F = AC on fan 4 (idle ~800 rpm)
360-364 F = hazards on--temp cycles between 360-364 same time as lights
357 F = foot on brake
364 F = window(s) down
360 F = window up
353 F = both windows up
360 F = pop up headlight button (returns to 364 F when headlights are up
360 F = parking lights on
345-349-334-338 F = headlights on
277 F = AC on, fan 4, hazards on, foot on brake, both windows going up, foot on gas @ 3.5K rpms
345-349 F = testing complete

what do you guys think?

 

I think something is messed up. Try this: Let the car cool off completely. Start the car, and record the temp. Since the sender is in the t-housing, the temp should stay pretty low until the t-stat opens. It should then move up quickly to around 180. It should stay around 180 for a couple of minutes, then gradually start to rise. I'm curious what your gauge will tell you if you do this test.

Possible problems:
The sender is not in the coolant stream?? Not likely. If that were the case, the temps would not be so high.

Bad wiring? I don't think so. I think you have it wired correctly. If it were wired wrong, you wouldn't get any reading, or a constant maximum reading.

Bad gauge?? Maybe.

Most likely problem: In my opinion, you probably have a sender that is not compatible with the gauge. Maybe the sender was meant for an oil temp gauge or something. I would contact the company, and make sure you got the right parts. These are new right? If they are used, maybe you got hosed!

Adam

 

I bought the sender kit and gauge new from the nordskog site http://www.nordskogperformance.net

And according to the boxes I have the right ones. M9013 (temp gauge) and S8013 (sender kit). I did find out through their site that the same sender kit is recommended for their tranny and oil temp gauges (digital). But if the PN# for the sender kit is all the same, I assume the guages are all calibrated for it.

I think the problem may either be a bad gauge or sender. Another possibility is interference from the alternator. But then wouldn't there have been other people experiencing the same problems? Yet another possibility could be the grounding locationg I used. I used the post on the TB with the 12mm bolt securing it.

I will probably call Nordskog directly and tell them I have a possible bad gauge or sender.

 

Say does anyone wanna buy a slightly used Nordskog/Intellitronix temp gauge? It doesn't actually tell you the temps, but you can use it to tell you whether or not any of your accessories are on.

 

I'm wondering why you bought that particular gauge. I've never heard of that brand.

 

I believe the Nordskog gauges used to be made by intellitronix, until Nordskog bought the company. I wanted digital temp gauge cause I thought it would be easier to read, and it got positive reviews from the ciriani site. One thing I found out is that the digital gauges are hard to read if the light hits them at the right angle (glare). If I decide to keep this gauge I may have to make up some sort of glare shield. Or I may say F-it and get an Autometer or DEFi gauge.

 

That gets my vote!

 

Lude Owner _ Reed my last post again - The fiber washer MUST go between the body of the sender and the wire conentor to prevent shorting the conector to the body of the sender- & the sender does NOT need an additional GROUND wire, it is grounded by the fact it is in a metalic part of the engine.
This style guage works by measuring the resistance through the sender which contains a material whose resistance changes according to its temperature.
I think the way you have it wired now you are measuring the voltage drop through your wiring harness and that varies w/ the amount of load.

Nordskog is an old OFFSHORE POWER BOAT RACER based out of VENTURA and is VERY well respected in Off Shore pbr community

 

I did read it and earlier I had tried it with and without the fiber washer both times the readings were way off. I had also removed the sender ground a long time ago when I found out it wasn't making any difference. The only grounding wire I am messing with is the main gauge ground. Believe me, I read everything that was suggested to me, and I also tried every combination. The fiber washer also broke apart the last time I tried screwing it on, so no more fiber washer. When I talk to Nordskog I am going to have to ask them what type of washer I can use for a replacement.

 

Hello again guys,

So there I was messing with the wiring yet again, trying to figure out what could be wrong. I had the sender wires completely away from the alternator no longer making that a factor. The readings would stay the same when I changed the main ground locations around, so that couldn't be the problem. The 12V source is the same place that lots of other people use, and the alternate grounding locatio under the shifter was also good.

I was quite sure that everything was hooked up to the right place....except for the blue (sender) and purple (dimmer) wires. I was having a hard time telling which one was which, so I had always made sure to swap wires around whenever I was running a test. It turns out the dimmer switch was wired up (and grounded) to the sender so the display was bright like it was supposed to be. The sender wire was also grounded under the shifter console. I didn't think there was any possible way for me to mix up the wires, but I swapped them around anyways. I snipped off the butt connectors, and switched wires (yet again) and tested out the sender.

I attached a grounding wire frome the engine to the sender and dipped the whole sender assembly in a container of hot water...140 F on the gauge **yay**. At this point I proceeded to rapidly slap myself in the forehead 20 times, afterwhich I placed the sender back in the thermohousing and fired the car up again. The temps showed an indicated 170 F and rising. Took the car out for a 45 minute cruise on the highway and got the normal readings.

Cruising @ 80-90 MPH = 180-190 F
Cruising @ 35-45 MPH = 200-208 F
Cruising @ 20 MPH = 211 F
Stopped, car cooling down 10 minutes = 211-214 F

All the time I had my fans on 3-4 and sometimes I turned the AC on.

Cliff Notes: My color blind *** wired up the gauge wrong.

Thanks to all that responded to this thread

 

lol!

Glad to hear it all worked out.

 

I think I'm gonna suggest to Nordskog to make either the purple or blue wire green, orange or grey. They should also have rubber washers instead of the weak fiber washers. My problem was a combination of a bad main ground and mixed up wires.

 

I went for a 1.5 hour drive to see how the temps looked at night time (3:30 am - 5:00 am, NorCal). The ones in my PREVIOUS POST were from 6:00 pm - 7:00 pm.

Here are the results:

At start-up = 100 F
After 3 minute warm up = 145-150 F
After 10 minute warm up drive @ 45 mph = 165-170 F
Cruising @ 80-90 mph = 179-182 F
Cruising @ 30-45 mph = 182-184 F

Then I stopped the car at a car wash, and hosed off my vehicle for the next 5-6 minutes. I let the car cool off for 3 minutes before shutting it down and washing. When I cranked it back up here were the temps:

At startup = 220 F
10 minutes cruising @ 45 mph = 189 F
15 minutes cruising @ 50-60 mph = 179 F
Waiting at drive-thru for tacos = 190 F
Start of 5 minute cool-down = 182 F
Finished 5 minute cool-down = 213F

Do those temps seem normal to you guys? It's on a R1 with HKS filters, Apexi N1, stock DP/cat, stock radiator and stock AST (.9 bar cap).

Thanks

 

Those look ok. You still have the stock pre-cat?

Also, as you've seen, letting the car sit idling for 3-5 minutes only makes the car hotter. Without more air going through the radiator, you aren't going to cool the car too well. If your temps are below 200F when getting ready to shut down, don't worry about a 5 minute cool down.

 

Yup, still have the stock thermonucl... I mean precat. Soon to be replaced with an M2 DP, (as soon as I figure out where to weld a bung to). I just wanted to see how long it would take the temps to rise if I sat for a while. Later in the day I will be taking a ride out in the CA heat.