When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
About six months back I blew my motor and lost at least half of an apex seal. The motor is rebuilt and ready to go back in, but I never inspected the turbos for damage until today. I took an endoscope to them and found the following:
Better than I had expected, but in several of the photos you can see what appears to be damage to the tail end/back of the turbine blades. Can somebody confirm that is in fact what I am seeing?
I talked to Bryan at BNR and he said removing the cartridges was pretty easy, but unfortunately I left my notes from that conversation at a different location. It doesn't appear that the FSM explains how to remove the cartridges -- what is the best way to do so?
About six months back I blew my motor and lost at least half of an apex seal. The motor is rebuilt and ready to go back in, but I never inspected the turbos for damage until today. I took an endoscope to them and found the following:
<pics deleted for brevity>
Better than I had expected, but in several of the photos you can see what appears to be damage to the tail end/back of the turbine blades. Can somebody confirm that is in fact what I am seeing?
I talked to Bryan at BNR and he said removing the cartridges was pretty easy, but unfortunately, I left my notes from that conversation at a different location. It doesn't appear that the FSM explains how to remove the cartridges -- what is the best way to do so?
Unfortunately this is all too common on rotary engine failures. Sorry. Obviously those wheels/cartridge need replacing.
To your question, the FSM does not address turbo disassembly. Replace turbo is the guidance. Turbo component maintenance is just one of many sub-systems that the factory consider beyond normal service level maintenance. However, it is indeed easy to disassemble to cartridge. Once on a bench, it's just unbolting the compressor and turbine snails... and feed lines.
I've recently disassembled a couple assemblies so it is still fresh. Here are my notes:
1) Mark both housings carefully so you know how it is oriented when you reassemble. Pick a reference point on the cartridge like the oil inlet/outlet flanges. I used a file.
2) Loosen all the 10mm bolts on the turbine housing. First use PB blaster and let it soak overnight. You may need heat to loosen some of the stubborn ones.
3) Once they are loose, get some spacers to place against the bolts and the compressor housing. I used some spare bolts. Sockets would also be fine. I used only 2 spacers and moved them around.
4) Loosen the 10mm bolts very gradually to start pressing the cartridge out. Keep checking that the turbine is free and does not bind. If it does then switch bolts so that it moves out as straight as possible.
5) It does take quite a bit of force to get it started (you will hear it move), but once it starts to budge you just need to keep switching sides and it will come out pretty easily.
6) Once that is out you will need to remove the huge snap ring on the compressor housing. A 9 inch snap ring plier from Harbor Freight will do this trick. I was unable to buy it separately and had to purchase the whole set for $75.
7) Once the snap ring is out then the housing can be slid off and you are done.
On a side note I do have a couple extra cartridges available if you want to a replacement. Although with a new engine I would probably suggest a new or rebuild unit to be safe.
I've recently disassembled a couple assemblies so it is still fresh. Here are my notes:
1) Mark both housings carefully so you know how it is oriented when you reassemble. Pick a reference point on the cartridge like the oil inlet/outlet flanges. I used a file.
2) Loosen all the 10mm bolts on the turbine housing. First use PB blaster and let it soak overnight. You may need heat to loosen some of the stubborn ones.
3) Once they are loose, get some spacers to place against the bolts and the compressor housing. I used some spare bolts. Sockets would also be fine. I used only 2 spacers and moved them around.
4) Loosen the 10mm bolts very gradually to start pressing the cartridge out. Keep checking that the turbine is free and does not bind. If it does then switch bolts so that it moves out as straight as possible.
5) It does take quite a bit of force to get it started (you will hear it move), but once it starts to budge you just need to keep switching sides and it will come out pretty easily.
6) Once that is out you will need to remove the huge snap ring on the compressor housing. A 9 inch snap ring plier from Harbor Freight will do this trick. I was unable to buy it separately and had to purchase the whole set for $75.
7) Once the snap ring is out then the housing can be slid off and you are done.
On a side note I do have a couple extra cartridges available if you want to a replacement. Although with a new engine I would probably suggest a new or rebuild unit to be safe.
Thanks for the info. I'll give it a shot tomorrow.
Yep, the sides of the turbine wheels got torn up. You did it right, the problem is it's the VERY EDGE of the turbine that gets chipped up, you can't see that just looking straight on at the turbine wheel. You have to use an endoscope and a bright light to get in there.
Those turbos WILL work for a while but you'll have loss of spool and they will eventually start smoking. Been there, done that.
You can probably just take the one bad turbo off and send that to Bryan. Remove oil and water lines, then unbolt the 13mm bolts that holds that turbo to the center housing that the downpipe attaches to. That way the turbine wheel will be more protected during shipping for what it's worth .
12-19-21, 11:15 PM
.