Tackling the twins soon. Want to avoid broke studs
#1
Tackling the twins soon. Want to avoid broke studs
Ok fellow fd owners I have some questions and need your suggestions. When removing the twins I don't want to strip or brake any studs. What do you guys suggest to remove all the nuts. Just plain old brute force or air impact gun and should I first heat every nut/stud before attempting to remove it? I will most like replace all nuts and studs with new ones. Also what is the torque for the nuts and the nuts on the oil lines? Tried checking the service manual but could not open it on my phone. Thanks guys
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THE TECH (07-20-17)
#3
90s riceboy
iTrader: (15)
Here are some options for studs (kinda pricey):
https://www.full-race.com/store/garr...-hardware-kit/
Good option for nuts:
M10-1.5 Exhaust Lock Nut Copper Plated Steel 14mm Hex
https://www.full-race.com/store/garr...-hardware-kit/
Good option for nuts:
M10-1.5 Exhaust Lock Nut Copper Plated Steel 14mm Hex
#5
F'n Newbie...
iTrader: (6)
It's probably better to plan for broken studs, as opposed to just hoping that you don't break any. Get a couple spare ones to have on hand just in case That, and definitely have new copper-clad locking nuts on hand. Treat those guys as 1-time use items, they're cheap enough.
#6
It Just Feels Right
iTrader: (11)
Replace with OEM hardware. It's inconel
I've also had good luck getting studs out with this
https://asttool.com/detail_page.php?...nd%20Extractor
I've also had good luck getting studs out with this
https://asttool.com/detail_page.php?...nd%20Extractor
Last edited by TomU; 07-20-17 at 11:35 AM.
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#11
Sponsor
iTrader: (41)
OEM hardware is best but expensive and should not be reused. If you reuse it there is a very good chance it will seize and break.
A good alternative is here Cylinder Head And Manifold Studs
These copper plated steel nuts also work well for exhaust and turbo applications
Nuts, Copper Plated Steel
Spray everything down with pb blast the day before. If a fastener begins to get tight stop and heat it, then try again. Repeat until it comes out. Its a good idea to chase the threads with a tap.
A good alternative is here Cylinder Head And Manifold Studs
These copper plated steel nuts also work well for exhaust and turbo applications
Nuts, Copper Plated Steel
Spray everything down with pb blast the day before. If a fastener begins to get tight stop and heat it, then try again. Repeat until it comes out. Its a good idea to chase the threads with a tap.
Last edited by IRPerformance; 07-21-17 at 09:51 AM.
#13
Full Member
iTrader: (2)
I found this a couple days on what exact sizes to get for replacements and where to get them.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati.../#post10669635
Although it's not the OEM inconel, I wonder how these would hold up in the long run with some antiseize or something. Maybe theorie will see the post and reply, it's been 6 years.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati.../#post10669635
Although it's not the OEM inconel, I wonder how these would hold up in the long run with some antiseize or something. Maybe theorie will see the post and reply, it's been 6 years.
#15
90s riceboy
iTrader: (15)
I'd have used McMaster and Carr studs like Theorie posted but saw that some people had reservations on not using Inconel studs like OEM due to the intense heat our engines put out warping regular studs. That's why I used the Full Race studs I linked up earlier, which are made of an Inconel alloy.
#17
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
This and other related threads might be a good read too. Seems like it usually comes up....
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...skets-1080695/
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...skets-1080695/
#18
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
FYI I've used the McMaster-Carr studs in a few FDs with no problems.
The big one here is using the copper locking nuts, the stock locknuts are WAY too aggressive and will almost always pull the stud out. The copper ones work great, aren't too expensive, fit nice, and will come off nice down the road when you want them to.
Dale
The big one here is using the copper locking nuts, the stock locknuts are WAY too aggressive and will almost always pull the stud out. The copper ones work great, aren't too expensive, fit nice, and will come off nice down the road when you want them to.
Dale
#19
Full Member
iTrader: (3)
Just replaced my twins with another pair of lightly used stock twins. I did not take out the engine, but it was a real headache to get off all of the hoses, heat shields, and connectors etc. There are some tight spaces to get into.
To get to the twins, I removed intake, intake hoses, air pump, y-pipe, and turbo control arm.
I removed my DP and installed an HKS along with swapping the twins, so I removed a lot of components.
I got all new gaskets, seals, and bolts from Ray (he's the man!). Some of the gaskets are very pricey, especially DP to turbo sandwich gasket, but I wanted to sleep better knowing I got OEM. Don't skimp on gaskets. I would not advice re-using gaskets if at all possible. Many, if not all, of these gaskets have a slightly raised indentation which crushes and seals properly when tightened down. Not really designed for re-use. Many of my gaskets were hardened and brittle, so they would have been impossible to re-use anyhow. If you want the full list of hardware I got and the prices I can PM you or just post it here for later reference.
I didn't have any bolts that were seized up, but ones that were tougher to remove I hit with some PB blaster and let it sit for a while and then went to work. The best advice would be to get a second pair of helping hands.
To get to the twins, I removed intake, intake hoses, air pump, y-pipe, and turbo control arm.
I removed my DP and installed an HKS along with swapping the twins, so I removed a lot of components.
I got all new gaskets, seals, and bolts from Ray (he's the man!). Some of the gaskets are very pricey, especially DP to turbo sandwich gasket, but I wanted to sleep better knowing I got OEM. Don't skimp on gaskets. I would not advice re-using gaskets if at all possible. Many, if not all, of these gaskets have a slightly raised indentation which crushes and seals properly when tightened down. Not really designed for re-use. Many of my gaskets were hardened and brittle, so they would have been impossible to re-use anyhow. If you want the full list of hardware I got and the prices I can PM you or just post it here for later reference.
I didn't have any bolts that were seized up, but ones that were tougher to remove I hit with some PB blaster and let it sit for a while and then went to work. The best advice would be to get a second pair of helping hands.
Last edited by jj_calvin; 07-24-17 at 12:12 PM.
#20
OEM hardware is best but expensive and should not be reused. If you reuse it there is a very good chance it will seize and break.
A good alternative is here Cylinder Head And Manifold Studs
These copper plated steel nuts also work well for exhaust and turbo applications
Nuts, Copper Plated Steel
Spray everything down with pb blast the day before. If a fastener begins to get tight stop and heat it, then try again. Repeat until it comes out. Its a good idea to chase the threads with a tap.
A good alternative is here Cylinder Head And Manifold Studs
These copper plated steel nuts also work well for exhaust and turbo applications
Nuts, Copper Plated Steel
Spray everything down with pb blast the day before. If a fastener begins to get tight stop and heat it, then try again. Repeat until it comes out. Its a good idea to chase the threads with a tap.
#21
I found this a couple days on what exact sizes to get for replacements and where to get them.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati.../#post10669635
Although it's not the OEM inconel, I wonder how these would hold up in the long run with some antiseize or something. Maybe theorie will see the post and reply, it's been 6 years.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati.../#post10669635
Although it's not the OEM inconel, I wonder how these would hold up in the long run with some antiseize or something. Maybe theorie will see the post and reply, it's been 6 years.