Got updates.

 

Cool...

But, why not just keep the stock tranny, upgrade the main shaft, have everything cryo'd and rebuilt, then call it a day?

 

....and thheeennn?

 

From Neal

"I have a small update on my swap.

Just a quick notion as to why I'm swapping. Good or bad I needed a solution. My car makes 500ft-lbs and I've ripped 2 trannys apart and 2 diffs as well. I just wanted something more beefier. Maybe this will help maybe it wont.

I bought a kit from a forum member. He had a few issues and didn't want to deal with the headache of it all. Couple issues were evident from the beginning. The adapter plate had been cut using a torch, which warped it ever so slightly. So the shaft was grinding on the bell housing collar, making an ungodly sound. Next, we drained the fluids and it looked like we struck gold. Metal shavings all thru the oil. Once opened things weren't so bad. But the main issues were the use of old parts. So the trans was rebuilt, but they used the same gears, same synchros, and they just replaced the parts that they were upgrading... like the keys, forks, blocker rings.

I have thrown everything away and bought new gears and everything else. I got an adapter plate from gforce. Very disappointed in their customer service and time promises. Said 2 weeks. Well I gave it to them in Nov, just got it back a few days ago. Yup. But this is what they did. I sent in my input shaft, the spacer plate from the t56, and my stock fd3s bell housing. They shaved the bell on both sides for input shaft penetration, kept my new input shaft and sent me a used viper shaft, sheesh. Said it's better. Ok buddy. I have pics of everything so far. I can't upload them from my phone. But I can send them to someone and they can upload them.

But when I'm done I will do a write up with pics and everything.

And I have a really small ***** "

 

more

 

Nice to get parts list for this. Like clutch and flywheel part numbers.

 

Sigh.

I have a T56/LS6 engine in my 2005 CTS-V (which is completely stock I might add). It came with a T56 from the factory. They really are awful transmissions, and it's one of the very few things I don't like about the car. I mean the shift quality is worse than an FD tranny, and that says something. This really should be a last resort swap for anybody who wants driving enjoyment.

I think most people with intentions for street driving will find that in the long run they'd be happier with turning the boost down than going through all the money and trouble of swapping in a T56. TR6060's are at least tolerable.

 

I was leaning heavily towards "upgrading" to a T56 based off all the hype I'd seen written for it over here... But after speaking some guys with MUCH more knowledge and experience then myself I realized that they shifted like trucks, weren't nearly as well matched to an FD as the stock transmission, and were ultimately much more expensive then just having an FD tranny fully rebuilt, upgraded, and cryo treated.


I suppose a T56 is a viable option when you're pushing INSANE power/torque (like Islander), but for the average (to borderline mental) owner... they really do just seem like a waste of money with nothing gained but bench racing bragging rights.

 

I would've kept a stock tyranny and upgraded it, but something was either wrong, or my setup was overpowering itself.

I have 335 rear tires and they are the toyo r888's. They hook! Period.
When I had a set of Michelin sport tires, I could spin them up til 3rd gear no problem. So I'm thinking with so much grip something has to go. I'm breaking stuff without even dropping the clutch or launching. This is rolling in 2nd and stomping on the gas. Tires hook and **** breaks. I went with the t56 for the size of the shafts and strength.

Yes the older t56 trannys are very truck like in shifting, but my car is way beyond a comfortable car. So this won't make a difference to me. Plus I plan on doing a tr6060 magnum. Which has the triple synchro for better shifting. Howard Coleman uses the t56 I have, unopened and shifts fine at over 8k rpm.

I already have a semi motor that's going in the car soon, shooting for 700 ish hp. And finally will do a 3 rotor project to finish my car once and for all. So the trannys will be needed.

 

^ Great, sounds like you are the right application for it. You know what you're getting into, you know what you want.

The TR6060 found in the current generation Camaro is noticeably better shifting IMO, at least in my experience driving a Camaro SS. I'm guessing LS3 swappers are already using it.

 

I think the problem is the factory style linkage that relates to the CTS-V version of the tranny. The linkage is very long and uses rubber bushings (which makes it feel sloppy) to make it feel more isolated in a luxury application. When I install this tranny on my fd, I'm gonna build the shifter bracket solid mounted to the body so this should increase shifter feel.

 

Maybe it's just me but I don't see how a trans can shift like a truck. What are you guys describing? How about some synthetic oil and a short shifter. What transmission does feel good to you?

 

My LS3 swap had a T-56 from the 98-01 Camaro SS. Also known as an F body. It indeed shifted like a truck. What we mean by that is it would shift out of gear into neutral and then into the next gear in what felt like 2 separate actions. Also this is in part by the double synchro design and people describe the newer TR6060 as a more fluid motion as it has a triple synchro design.

Also the notchiness of the T-56 is in part due to the hydraulic design. The fluid heats up quickly and ends up boiling under sustained hard use. This requires constant bleeding to remove the air. The fluid also gets a lot of clutch contaminants and you will see it turn dark quickly. There are some modifications done to the bell housing to allow clutch dust and heat to escape lessening the problem but the TR6060 already has this change by design. It's probably why it seems to tolerate prolonged track use a bit better.

The T-56 Magnum is the aftermarket version of the TR6060. Has some wider gears and gear set differences that are more beneficial to the RX-7 swaps and fitment is better due to the bell housing. It's a bit longer so not a direct swap for a T-56 and the yoke is different.

The T-56 magnum should be the trans people are looking at if they need a stout manual for the FD. They can be had new for just above $3k.

Another option if you already have a T-56 is to send it out and have it upgraded. Most of the transmission shops will do different levels and upgrade the weak and problematic parts to the improved aftermarket ones that improve the shift quality and durability of the standard T-56.

RPM transmissions does these type of upgrades and they were recommended by a Corvette shop owner I know. It was an option for me because I already had the trans. If I was starting fresh I would have done the T-56 Magnum. You still have a better trans and in the end with the upgrades the T-56 still won't be any stronger than the magnum.

How strong is the magnum?
GNX7 has a Turbo LS9 FD that puts down over 1000 hp and for 3 years he has raced it without a single transmission failure. That includes plenty of low 9 second 1/4 mile runs and running 200mph in the half mile events.
GNX7 sells these transmissions new and I've bought plenty of parts from him and he is easy to deal with.

 

with the qualifier that how something shifts is a bit objective i feel the need to stand up for my F body T56 and say that i think it shifts perfectly. it certainly shifts differently than the stock trans as it is a larger transmission.

my setup uses the GTO (external) shift mechanism which locates the shifter in exactly the same position as the OE shifter. perhaps the GTO setup helps shifting. here's a pic



my trans is untouched inside and shifts as fast as i can move the lever at 9000. i am unaware of any neutral position influence, it is just first second third etc.

one of the reasons i picked the F body was gear ratios... a longish first works for me as OE first is so short and also increases the spacing to direct drive.

FD 42.1%, 30.9% 28.1%

T56 GTO 30.3%, 28.5%, 32.4%

T56 F body 33%, 26.9%, 23%

F body ratios fit road racing and half and mile app.

the trans has not been out of my car since June 2010 until now as i am changing clutches and did not want to pull the motor.

i have recently switched all oils/lubes in my car from Mobil One to Driven. Driven makes a special oil for the T56.

Howard

 

i'm with Howard on this they are great tranny's i also don't know of any neutral position with any T56 i ever drove in any case its def better then the tonka toy horse s*it that came in our cars

 

I've had 2 Corvettes and 4 Vipers with the T56 and still can not relate to it shifting like a truck or having two seperate motions to shift. Vipers run 8s in the 1/4 on the stock t56. I also have a manual SUV without the described issue, as well as 20+manual cars. never had a manual transmission that I couldn't shift well or had a complaint about. If someone has sensitivity to actions of transmissions and likes the feel of one over another, that's what options are for I suppose

 

just as an FYI>>>

Beyond Redline is going to offer an aluminum (makes sense) adapter plate especially fixtured to adapt their Mcloed RST clutch package including the Mcloed hydraulic actuator bearing.

other than one is going on my car i have nothing to do w it so give them a call if interested.

Howard

 

While these types of descriptions can be subjective I urge you to Google the phenomenon. It's a common complaint by owners who put heat into the transmissions while racing. I'm sure they work fine for everyone when being used in pedestrian fashion. I know that people switching from an FD trans to a T-56 are doing it for a racing application. My experience is that it wasn't shifting like a sports car transmission should. It was not fluid, was very notchy.

It was behind an LS3 in an FD putting 440/440 wheel. Ran an LS7 clutch until it started slipping and then ran an RXT twin plate with aluminum
Flywheel. New hydraulics. New fluids. Only helped to bleed it often. As soon as it would get hot the fluid would get dark and would need to be bled again. The shifting would get noticeably slower.

I wasn't the only one at the track bleeding my T-56 either... So wasn't just me. But if it works great without any upgrades for you guys then there is obviously no argument. YMMV.

 

There is a known issue with clutch dust finding it's way into the slave fluid under heavy track abuse which will make the clutch pedal soft and affect shifting. People run a long bleeder line to bleed the clutch often. I have not heard of having to replace the trans fluid often.

 

Are we talking tranny fluid or clutch fluid?

 

Hmmm now if this is the problem, it's more reason to use the manuel bell housing from the turbo II because the fork release bearing mechanism shouldn't be effected by clutch dust. Your clutch fluid should stay much cooler since the slave cylinder isn't near any heat.

 

That's correct. There is nothing to bleed with the trans fluid.
It's the hydraulics that are the problem.

 

try a different bend of fluids it will shift smoother,they are known for being notchy

i have a t56 in my car .... i was making 471rwhp and close to that in torque on drag radials in a RX7 that has seen 100+ hard launches on a stock trans. these transmissions are not garbage. they are strong as hell from the factory. what other factory transmission in this price range can do that ? don't even get me started on why this is the arguably one of the best transmissions of its time in terms of compactness, size, strength, etc theres a reason why its a very common swap.

 

So PFITZNER (PFITZNERPERFORMANCEGEARBOXES) is making internals to turn your T-56 or TR6060 into a sequential that can also be paddle shifted.

You want some fast shifting T-56? That should make it the best T-56 ever.
Check out their Facebook page. The forum won't let me link it.

Copied from their Dec 17th post.
PRI 2015 is now over and we are delighted to report that we had a great show. In fact we were overwhelmed with the interest we had in some of our products. Unsurprisingly, the TREMEC T-56/TR6060 6-speed sequential conversion received the greatest amount of attention. And here’s why…
The TREMEC series of gearboxes is fitted to many of the mainstream performance cars in the States: Corvettes, Mustangs, Camaros and Vipers…to name but a few. But what makes our sequential conversion so attractive is the fact that our 6-speed gear set fits straight into the OEM casings, with no modifications required. Part of the package we offer includes our unique helical-cut dog tooth profile design gears. These provide the strength of a traditional straight-cut dog together with the smooth operation and reduced noise of a helical-pattern gear set.
The PPG 6-speed system also features our motorsport-derived Micro-barrel sequential selection and incorporates a Gill Sensors Blade 360˚non-contact 10-bit rotary gear position sensor. This incredibly accurate measuring device means that you get lightening-fast, effortless and accurate gear selection every time. Actuation can be carried out via paddles or a shift lever - using a rod or cable linkage - plus there's an integrated load cell that operates in both tension and compression modes to allow a flat up-shift and a throttle-blip during down-shift.
For further details, applications and specifications, please reply to this post and we’ll get back to you ASAP.

 

dog boxes suck to drive on the street