Hey everyone!

In the middle of my suspension rebuild and I found something I wanted to share.

So for you guys who lowered your FD, I noticed that the angle the sway bar interfaces with the end link after is terrible! When I first saw the SBG sway bar mounts, TBH I thought they were kind of gimmicky. Man was I wrong when you look at the scope of how your suspension works. The mounts are 22mm shorter to raise the sway bar and allow it to interface with your end links MUCH better. Prior to them, they would interface at a stressed angle with weight on the corner. I can only imagine how much uglier it would get with compression on that corner. Not only that, but the stock mounts have a small foot print and put a lot of stress on the mount points on the frame. My points even developed hairline eyebrow cracks! The beefier and larger footprint of these mounts coupled with the lateral load clips are sure to alleviate this.

My FD has 73k miles and about 8 track days. I’ll let the pics speak for themselves









Side note: I did have to reshape my power steering cooler line a little bit from my Greddy V mount kit for these to work. But that was very easy to do by hand as the line is made of a malleable aluminum.

Matt

Mine was set at a 25” ride height to the top of the fender lip. One of the issues is that once you lower the car, the resting angle of your LCAs is more parallel to the ground. When that happens, the angle the sway bar interfaces with the endlink is...yikes. Even adjusting my Improved Racing links all the way, the bar still engaged the bearing at an angle with weight on that corner (other side was disconnected in the photos). The shorter mounts from SBG fixed both the angle of interface, as well as stability with the addition of the lateral load clips.

Other conpanies offer shorter sway bar mounts i.e. FEED and Super Now, however their mount points are small as while I think they will fix the angle, they’ll continue to have tearing potential on your mounting points.

I plan on stop drilling the cracks with a 3/16” bit and priming to prevent rust. After a season, I’ll pull the mounts back off to ensure the cracking doesn’t get worse. If it continues to grow, I’ll do a permanent repair. However I feel stop drilling in addition to the mounts will suffice.

Matt

Small update.

I took the paint off off the area where the cracks were and the large cracks were definitely into the metal. The smaller ones were stress cracks in the paint. I stop drilled the cracks using a 5/32” bit.





Matt