illusion38

iTrader: (1)

Alright, so planned on putting in my turbos today, but I have a damage stud that is stuck. I am horribly worried it is going to snap. Penetration fluid, filed some flat spots(nothing deep) it WILL NO spin. Snap pliers are BIG and on as tight as they will go basically. Does anyone have any tips, I'm in fear shes gunna snap, or just twist away to nothing... Help

JStrib

iTrader: (6)

Same thing happened on my buddy's...what we ended up being able to use was lots of PB blaster and one of the Auger bits...you know, the ones for stripped bolts and such? one just happened to fit neatly over the thread and onto the thicker part! I guess give that a shot and good luck with it...

baggedoutmazda

which stud is it? is it one of the ones that hold turbos onto manifold? if so you could remove the 4 nuts holding the manifold on & remove the manifold from the car so u can work on it. u can get new studs from local auto parts shop about 2 bucks each. dealer is 14 a piece. stud is 8mm 1.5 thread, not sure of length. lots of heat & it will loosen.

illusion38

iTrader: (1)

Yeah removing the manifold would do it, just not wanting to do it if I didn't have too. I'll try flattening it some more, and making sure it grips. As for replacable studs, good to know I coulda scored em for 2 each instead of 12.... doh! I need the alternator drive belt, how much should this cost me. I am quoted for 84 which is insane. Smaller shop had it for 25, but discontinued, anyone ideas? I'll pay shipping if it keeps it under 84, like wow! I'll let you guys know if I get this stud out. On a side note, also did a clutch job, how does the pilot bearing and seal come out? Just stick a pokey thing in and pry or??

badddrx7

iTrader: (7)

" On a side note, also did a clutch job, how does the pilot bearing and seal come out? Just stick a pokey thing in and pry or??[/QUOTE]




I love this **** !

The mechanics call the "pokey thing" a Pilot bearing puller. It's a slide hammer with expanding attachment that grip the bearing and pops it out. You can rent one at auto zone. Ask them for a "pokey thing" to get that bearing out.

Later

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Stupid Mazda decided to use inconel studs. The material tends to splinter as it seizes, and the shards dig into the metal. This is why they become more and more difficult to remove as you unscrew them. If it is seized, your best chance is to heat it with a torch until it glows bright red and try grabbing with a strong vice grip. try to work it out slowly and if it gets more difficult stop and re-heat. If this doesn't work just pull off the manifold and take it to the machine shop. I never use the Mazda studs any more because I am tired of dealing with them. I stock much higher quality studs that do not give me an issue. You really should replace the pilot bearing as well as the seal. Ideally you want the Mazda puller but a generic one can be ground down to work.

bajaman

I had no idea they were Inconel until you said it. I just went and checked some old ones I had laying around and sure as ****...they are! Magnet doesn't stick to them and they are heavy as hell.

Trippy.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

heating it up will definately help.

another thing to try is to weld a nut to the end of the stud and turn that a wrench. that'll give you more torque on it, but it won't keep it from breaking if it's brittle.

illusion38

iTrader: (1)

Found a great video on removing/installing the pilot bearing and seal and can see why a "pokey thing" may not be best. Looks like a lot of force is required to remove it, now how common are these or will mazda have to order one in for me maybe?

moconnor

iTrader: (14)

Where do you source these?

badddrx7

iTrader: (7)

Read my response above - you'll find a clue within it for a source.

Later

moconnor

iTrader: (14)

Sorry - I quoted the wrong thing. I was referring a source for the alternate non OEM studs.

bajaman

I don't think one can weld Inconel, conventionally....?

windom

iTrader: (1)

You can also heat the metal around the stud with a torch until it's near glowing, then take a wet cold rag and cool the stud itself way down.

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Well I can't give out all my secrets I normally keep them in stock.

Phread

+1
Mapp gas is hotter than propane, and just make sure you have Brand name vice grips...

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

That it is. Ideally you want an oxy acetylene torch.

illusion38

iTrader: (1)

Alright, so I got the manifold off, I'll work on it better now tonight. I borrowed the pilot bearing puller but for the life of me it would not grip, im determined the "generic" one just isn't good enough and I'm not sure I can locate a better one for rent or lent. Is there any other method. I have heard finding the right size shaft, filling it with grease then hammering in the shaft in hope grease will force it out from under...in quite the pickle right now, anyone?

moconnor

iTrader: (14)

If you are really stuck you an buy a used manifold for $50 or so in the classifieds.

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Well I have seen plenty of used manifolds where people leave the studs in because they cannot get though out, so just be careful.

Phread

if it's off take it to a machine shop, and they'll take on that aggravation.
and if that's not the only one left have them tak those out too.

illusion38

iTrader: (1)

"Quote:
Originally Posted by arghx View Post
heating it up will definately help.

another thing to try is to weld a nut to the end of the stud and turn that a wrench. that'll give you more torque on it, but it won't keep it from breaking if it's brittle.
I don't think one can weld Inconel, conventionally....?"

An update to all, welded just fine. with a typical MIG. None the less I do not feel so bad me and vice grips could not get it out. Welded, a shaft on, and slowly cranked... snapped before any twist. Next step was drilling it out, perfect. Now off it goes to the machine shop to mill it out from the inside in an effort to save threads. Last update I got was "who designed this, and why is the thinnest stud with the thinnest hottest wall!!" It appears it welded itself in, it is drilled out completely but is locked in the threads, they still have a couple more tricks to try before re drilling/tapping. I'll let you guys know. So my pilot bearing another story. 2.5 hours with a hand dremel being VERY patient... Worked good I guess, made it thin enough, chizzled a crack and then got under neither and chizzled more. All and all shaft stayed smooth, had 1 small gouge, but fixed easily with some emery cloth, nothing major. New pilot bearing and Seal are now in. Turbo's are a pain to get to, more of a pain if the is tranny on? Or go nuts assembling and I won't regret it? Should I hold off for the manifold to be back (Tuesday) or go nuts the rest of this weekend finishing my clutch job?

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Sounds to me like it would have been easier to pull the motor with all the work you're doing......

illusion38

iTrader: (1)

ypu, just like you said long ago when I first asked. So many mixed answers and the person helping was determined this would go best. I may have regrets, but it'l get done. Adivse waiting for turbos to be reinstalled before putting the transmission and stuff back on? Or it should not be in the way too much?