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Previous owner somehow stripped the oem subframe bolt hole. He then enlarged the hole to install a larger standard size bolt which hasn't seem to work because the bolt seems very loose and not done right. My question to the community is whether you guys think a Helicoil would be better for the job so I can install a OEM size matching subframe bolt or just use a Tap & Die kit to tap the hole and install a larger bolt correctly. Please help, thank you!
Yes definitely irks me especially because the repair wasn't done right. What's more is that the previous owner was a mechanic with access to a huge shop where I bought the car.
I'm no mechanic by no means but seeing as the importance of those bolts i would put up size the bolt. I think there m10 aren't they? To bad they didn't make welders for this purpose, put a bead all the way around and up through
although, a good comment i read online says to just try and retap to the original tap size and if it don't hold the correct torque then try to up size it.
Those holes are really important as I'm sure you know. Is this for the front or rear subframe?
If you could get to the other side in theory a new captive nut could be welded on, but that may be just a ridiculously big job. I would probably try the Helicoil first. Doing so I would REALLY take my time, make sure it's in there dead straight, and is installed perfectly as per the directions.
Would you guys by any chance know the size of the front subframe bolt? Or perhaps where I could find out the size? I don't want to have to pull out the other side but I will if I have to.
I've re-tapped a different front rail internal captive nut for a simple bracket, but with the bolt used for the front subframe, going the next size up to 14mm metric fine, gives a larger hex head and the potential to interfere with castor adjustment....which these things need all they can get!
I'd use a time-sert over a helicoil in this application too.
Holy ****. I would seriously have started crying man-tears if any stuff like that had happened to me. Im really at a loss when having to work with broken threads. Fking voodoo to fix it
You could prob get a known good subframe and then you would have some peace and sleep better at night.
Get one from a roller; contact my buddy 1CLEANCYM
The rear fastener, near the lower arm rear pick-up on the subframe, is a bolt. The other 2 studs are up front along with the aligning pin.
Don't know what a typical JIS nut size is in metric fine, but ISO is 10.8mm high...so something around that size should do, there seems to be something going on here to make things overly complicated imho.