I'm having a tough time understanding which among all of the suspension points are:
1. "bushings" (hard rubber that can be upgraded to Mazdaspeed or JimLab),

2. pillowballs (zero compliance metal/plastic inserts with dust seals; rebuildable), and

3. "balljoints" (apparently not rebuildable and require purchase of new suspension arms)

I'm looking to do a comprehansive replacement of everything (car has 95k on all original stuff). I've already got aftermarket toe links, and would likely just get aftermarket trailing arms as well... i also might choose to mix more than one style of bushing top to bottom.

Anyone have a diagram and part #'s for what's what and where at each corner?

 

Hopefully this will help.

dave

 

Here is a list of bushings that are replaceable with MazdaSpeed parts whihc are in the rane of 60-70 duro, 40% stronger than stock (not sure what stock duro is):

(4) front lower control arm bushings
(4) front upper control arm bushings
(4) rear upper control arm bushings
(2) rear upper control arm shock mount bushings
(2) front trailing arm bushings
(2) inner toe control link bushing
(2) differential bushings
(2) inner rear lower I-arm bushings
(2) front sway bar bushings
(2) rear sway bar bushings
(4) upper shock mounts
(2) engine mounts
Total: 32

Autoexe also produces many of the same bushings in slightly higher Duro rating of 70-75

Then there are pillowball kits replacing many of the above control arm/links.

Most JDM pillow ball kits include the following (most self lubricating with seals):
(4) front lower control arm bushings
(4) front upper control arm bushings
(4) rear upper control arm bushings
(2) rear upper control arm shock mount bushings
(2) front trailing arm bushings
(2) inner toe control link bushings
Total:18

A few include all of the above, plus:
(2) inner rear lower I-arm bushings
Total:20

As for 6 rear the pillow ***** there is no MazdaSpeed replacement, although there is a company in Japan that does make a metal on metal replacement kit.

Lastly, there are a few companies that produce replacement front upper and lower a-arms with a replaceable ball joint, although they are $$$. I am in the midst of working on a replacement kit that would require machining of the stock arms, but will allow the ball joints to be servicable.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that you can replace the balljoints without buying new suspension arms.

 

I've never heard of these balljoints being replaceable. I think using non-servicable joints allowed them to lighten the design.

Eyecandy, I'd be curious to know how much metal you have to remove - too much would be a bad thing.

Dave

 

I'd love to see the pricing for the Autoexe bushings . . .

:-) neil

 

fd bushings and bearings...........

fyi doing a search in the suspension section will tell you everything you need to know.

here's the executive summary:

it is ridiculous to replace all the fd bushings w either solid or higher durometer rubber.

many of the bushings carry little or no vertical load. the upper A-arm bushings only set the track for the suspension geometry. as such they don't generally wear out.

there are two bushing sets that should be changed from OEM regardless of their condition. they are the 2 big rubber differential bushings and the two big rubber bushings at the front of the longitudinal lower link in the rear.

both bushings see great force and both bushings allow too much suspension movement.

put a jack under the diff and you will note the jack raises the diff over an inch before the car starts rising. a no no.

the other bushings, at the front of the longitudinal link, absorb all the braking and acceleration and ANY movement creates a toe out or toe in. you want NO toe change. most of these bushings have deteriorated to the point where they are really sloppy. replace w either a higher durometer rubber bushing or a nylon type.

other than checking your spherical bearings... "pillowballs" for any slop that's it. BTW, the rear toe links do get sloppy over time and should be replaced if there is ANY slop at all. either the stock toe links or aftermarket toe links will work exactly the same. if you are looking to save money and have sloppy toe links just buy a non sloppy stock set off our classifieds for $30-50. ditto if you have worn balljoints which hardly ever happens.

big performance gains to be had by replacing the above 2 sets of bushings... no performance gains by replacing the other bushings unless for some reason they are severly worn.

howard coleman

 

Howard, for a daily use car, that does monthly autox and four (4) HPDE/year, would you go with a solid diff mounts like Jim Lab's or Autoexe, or just get the mazdaspeed ones ?

:-) neil

 

"A reading from the Book of Armaments, Chapter 4, Verses 16 to 20:..."

Thanks Howard. I think the executive summary was very helpful. I've gotten headaches trying to follow this bushing vs. that bushing in the old discussions.

Question: I recall that the bushing you suggest to replace in the longitudinal (trailing) arm does not come separate from a Mazda dealer, only as part of the replacement arm. Mazdaspeed does sell their stiff bushing separately, correct?

Dave

 

That would be the trailing arm bushing. The STOCK trailing-arm bushing is not available by itself. However, the Mazdaspeed one is ! PN# F128-28-52Y (40% stiffer than stock). Pillowball that the trailing arm connects to: pn# FD01-26-220

Mazdaspeed differential bushing pn# F128-28-890 (40% stiffer than stock).

Mazdaspeed toe-link bushing pn# F128-28-42Y (40% stiffer than stock).
Pillowball for the toe-link: pn# FD01-26-230

:-) neil

 

I wasn't aware that these were rebuildable.

 

<DELETE>

 

They aren't. But you can replace the bushing independently from the suspension arm (unlike the upper and lower ball joints in the front suspension).

-Max

 

i currently run nylon bushings but prefer the higher durometer rubber bushings as a very small amount of compliance is preferable and the nylon bushings wear rapidly and become sloppy.

howard coleman

 

Howard, you are correct in most respects, although I would like to add a few things. First I would like to say you are very well respected here and bring a lot of information to the RX7 community.

The front suspension bushings are designed to deflect the lateral forces in a way to produce a toe-in, although under high breaking forces the arm and bushing design generates toe-out movement. In both cases the toe-in under lateral forces and toe-out under breaking force is to add stability.

The rear suspension (upper and lower arms) bushings again under lateral forces are designed to deflect, which transmits the force to the toe control link producing a toe-out. Under acceleration, the deflection in the trailing arm bushing transmits movement to the toe control link and both the upper and lower arm (inner bushings) to create toe-out. During breaking the movement in the trailing arm again transmits the force to the toe control and lower arm to create a toe-in motion.

Yes you will most likely see the largest performance gains replacing the trailing arm and toe control link (inner bushing) as you will with replacing all the others. Mazda designed all the bushings to deflect the lateral, acceleration, and/or breaking forces to another axis point or bushing/link in a way that will improve stability and performance. So saying there would be no performance gain by replacing the other bushings is not true.

It all comes back to how much control (predictability) you want out of the suspension. The best example I can think of is the DTSS (Dynamic Tuned Suspension System) found in the FC3S, Mazda designed the bushing under load to “steer itself” creating toe-in. While some prefer the DTSS, you lose a lot of control (predictability) on IF or WHEN the rear end is going to slide or snap back, the rear end will begin to slide then suddenly snap back when the DTSS takes effect.

Each upgrade should be looked at carefully since not all are looking for the same setup and changing effects the characteristics and/or longevity of the remaining (unchanged) bushings.

 

As M104-AMG posted the Mazdaspeed bushings, the same is said for the Autoexe. For what it is worth there are replacement Pillowballs (self-lubricated and sealed) available for both the trailing arms and toe control links.

Check this link out for information regarding them https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/pillow-ball-polyurethane-bushing-kits-507185/

There are pros and cons replacing the entire link or replacing just the bushing. The bushings are generally more expensive, but they can be replaced without needing to realign the car. Which in the long run saves you money and last longer since they last considerably longer (if not the life of the vehicle) than the spherical rod end aftermarket links. Many people over look the alignment after the install or how long your typical rod end will last if not sealed from the elements.

Many people do not know there are replacement bushings available for the current suspension arms, and see the price for a replacement rod end and jump to conclusions the aftermarket links are the best option.

 

Can I purchase bushes from Mazdaspeed or Autoexe online? Anyone have their website address?

 

www.autoexe.co.jp Let me know if you have figgered out what the homepae is telling you.. my Japanese sucks ;-)g

 

Sorry for digging up this old thread, but is the number 7 in this picture what is reffered to "big rubber bushings at the front of the longitudinal lower link in the rear"?

 

yes