With the exception of the flywheel (which my garage is taking off for me tomorrow), I can't figure out how to get this little annoying nozzle thing off!!

Anyone got any ideas?




This is whar my block currently looks like....



Thanks!

 

That nozzle is for your htr return hose. The nozzle is a pressed fit, with loctite. I would dremel off the plastic piece so you have a straight steel nozzle to attach your hose to when re-installed. Careful with the dremel and don't cut the metal nozzle.

LAter

 

Ah... I thought it somehow just clipped on there. (that explains why I couldn't get it off!)

 

That's a little aggressive considering the damn thing just slides off when you squeeze it with pliers.

There was a thread on this a little while ago and most people said to just attach a hose to the metal. Well, there are two reasons I think that it's a bad idea. 1: no barb or flare to keep the hose on the nipple, you rely on friction. 2: you can replace the thing with a Dorman quick disconnect for fords. Just make sure it's the right hose diameter because there are several.

 

Or you could just use a flaring tool... and flare the steel tube.

 

It's NOT a straight tube, there are two raised sections on it. You place the hose flush with the block and add a worm gear clamp or two. Over the years more people have ( by far ) stripped the plastic off and ran the hose straight onto the nipple with clamp. End of story.



Later

 

^This is what I did. Use new hose. No issues with mine.

 

To be honest jim why you want to remove it at all,, ive done 2 engine builds ive left that connected both times if your reusing that end plate.

 

Just because it was in the way when moving it about or if I was rolling it over etc.

Bearing in mind it's being done in on a floor in my spare room, not on a stand.

It's not a big deal, I'll just leave it as is.

 

Jeez, I put a smiley in the post. What does it take to get you people to stop taking **** so seriously?

 

Found using a brass or aluminium drift and a very light hammer, they come out of the plate readily with a bit of minor side to side action.....stationary gear dowel pins too, for that matter.

 

Because if the OP breaks something from following bad advice that costs him/her money...When its your pride and joy you want the correct and safest method possible.

 

Who gave bad advice? I must have missed that.

All I did was make a joke about taking a grinder to a quick disconnect and give my opinion.

 

I didn't see any bad advice either. A difference of opinion maybe.
My coupler was in pretty good shape and I nearly kept it after the rebuild but ultimately removed it with the belief that I was removing a possible failure point. At least one that was more likely than new hose and a couple of worm-gear clamps. It was after all, 15 years old and I didn't know about the replacement option. The OP can decide for himself.

 

Don't take it the wrong way Alex, your opinion is valued and was listened to. You would like to keep the Mazda oem part intact and working as it is intended and that is ok. But think of yourself in a workshop or large garage here....your surrounded by Mechanics of various degree of skill. Some are experts, some are experienced hands at modest levels, some can repair the simpliest things and there are some that buzz around threads like a greenbottle fly just to **** a maggot out on someones thread.

That particular Mazda connection has been talked about all the way back to the digest days and the consensus was then and I believe still applys is to get shed of it and use a worm clamp. You are right, replacing it will hold...for some time, but believe me when I say, that ole familiar green stain will once again appear and you'll have to deal with it.

Don't let any comment deter you from expressing your honest and best advice from being laid out on the table.


Later

 

Thanks, I'll keep the condescending comments rolling if you insist.

You were right about there being flares on the nipple, but they're further up and less gradual than normal. I was imagining people clamping a hose onto the straight part and couldn't imagine that beign any safer.

On the other hand you've pretty much sold me on clamping it right onto the housing. The only thing that's keeping me from trying it on my own car is that I've got new coolant hoses and I'm concerned they are going to be too snug to stretch over that flare. Do you just have to work it over it?

 

Yes, apply a little dish washing liquid ( small amount ) to the nipple and hose id and slip it right on. Take the hose all the way to the block and clamp it. Best to use clamps that will not allow the clamping strap slots to cut into the rubber of the hose. Baker precision has some really nice hose clamps that are flat all the way around. I bought a lifetime supply of various sizes.

http://www.bakerprecision.com/hoseclmp.htm




later