eslai

Haha yeah I read that when I was doing research. I've already purchased new studs and nuts for the thing. I wonder how bad it'll be, considering the car only has 15,000 miles on it. But 24 years is a long time....

Now, if one DOES break a stud, how does one extract it in our cramped engine bay?

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

^The $64,000 question. I helped a friend with his and we got lucky. Never had to deal with it on my car as the engine was out and on a stand...and no studs broke on it either.
If possible I'd chase the threads in the manifold before re-installing studs. And use a lot of hi-temp anti-seize.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i haven't had any trouble with the studs and nuts, key is, i think, to not use power tools and go slowly.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

As I recall on the aftermarket LHD DP's the one lower bolt is somewhat shielded by the pipe and you want to be careful to get a socket on it square so you don't round the nut off.

seven1997

iTrader: (2)

Replaced my stock precat down pipe with a JDM down pipe last week and we can tell the difference in cabin heat and engine bay heat, it is COOLER now.
It should be noted the JDM down pipe does have the stock shielding so I did not put any wrapping or coating on it. Also the fitment was excellent to the turbo and the cat I had no problems with the fit-up!!