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stock twins hp....how high?

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Old Mar 1, 2008 | 10:28 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by djseven
Dont go to the dealership, there should be plenty of reputable shops on the West Coast for you to take the car to. Trust me on this one, go to a rotary specific shop, it will be the best decision you have made.
its not a dealership place but its a place that specializes in mazda's but i also know of a guy who works on all import cars and i took it to him to let him take a quick look but i want to know if theres anything engine wise wrong. my car's CEL turns on and off and ill open my hood and it seems to be overheating and it makes these weird bubble noises??? just want an estimate on what needs to be done.
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Old Mar 1, 2008 | 10:38 PM
  #27  
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Ok, the bubbling noises is ok and normal right after you shut down... Seriously, don't skimp on this car. Take it to a ROTARY SPECIALIST, not some guy you go drinking with that likes imports and has watched all versions of FntF 10+ times each, who also works as a Lexus Mechanic on the side...

Take it to a *rotary* Specialist, it will be the best thing *you* have ever done for the car.
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 02:37 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by FDWarrior
I hit 338whp on 15psi(stock twins). 400whp/ 25psi at 4k rpm (boost controller poped off, car is still ok).
Ummm 25psi on stock twins....?
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 03:04 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by fendamonky
Ok, the bubbling noises is ok and normal right after you shut down... Seriously, don't skimp on this car. Take it to a ROTARY SPECIALIST, not some guy you go drinking with that likes imports and has watched all versions of FntF 10+ times each, who also works as a Lexus Mechanic on the side...

Take it to a *rotary* Specialist, it will be the best thing *you* have ever done for the car.
yeah thats what i plan on doing because i want to make sure my car is running perfect or as close as i can get it to being perfect before i start doing mods. but the guy i know helps run D1 and helped put together some of the cars tokyo drift and the new fast and furious lol but still im going to take it to the mazda place and if they dont help me ill find someone on here to help me. any idea why my CEL goes on and off?
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 02:05 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by internal comsucktion engi
Ummm 25psi on stock twins....?
I have seen 23lbs on them when a buddy of mine installed his boost controller by himself on his fd right after I installed a midpipe and pettit ECU for him. He let off by about 4500-5k rpms(as soon as he could) and just looked at me with a white face. The motor held up just fine and he put another 10-15k miles on it before selling it and buying another fd.
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 06:19 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by moconnor
This does not sound plausible. The AFR meter must have been faulty. As another poster pointed out, car would probably bog if you were dumping this much fuel. Also, you would be making very little power. And would probably foul the spark plugs in a few hundred miles.

The plugs did foul very quickly, fuel consumption was retarded, flames were big, dunno what to say? haha. AF probe was good. we used it on a different car to tune before i used it.
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 07:30 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by fendamonky
The stock twins lose efficiency at 15psi. I forget the technical term, but this is the point where they start producing more heat than the compressed air can compensate for. Going much above this mark is *supposedly* detrimental to the actual power being produced and can net lower overall numbers than a lower PSI within the HT12's efficiency zone.
At about 15 - 16 PSI the stock twins start chopping the air rather than pushing it through. This is the reason why you get more heat.
More heat = less air density; less density = less O2 and less O2 = less power.

Do keep in mind that should be upgrading your intake (including intercooler) and exhaust to get the max out of your stock twins. Also If you plan to go anything over 14 PSI you should also think of upgrading your injectors and pump. Just to make sure that you are not running max duty on you stock ones.
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 07:50 PM
  #33  
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.. not to keep this thread going too long, but with the unlimited ecu the max is 14psi, am i right? now would it be wise/neccasary/possible to upgrade your injectors? thanks in advance.
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 10:15 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by djseven
I have seen 23lbs on them when a buddy of mine installed his boost controller by himself on his fd right after I installed a midpipe and pettit ECU for him. He let off by about 4500-5k rpms(as soon as he could) and just looked at me with a white face. The motor held up just fine and he put another 10-15k miles on it before selling it and buying another fd.
Ehhhh....Well dont get me wrong David, I can see the turbocharger being able to "boost" that high....maybe even higher. But the way he mad it sound, it was on a dyno and put down 400rwhp @ 25psi. All I can think of when I read that is how HOT the air is after being "chopped" up by the compressor wheel. < = detonation...

I've seen what happends @ 17-18 psi on the stock twins (in long term usage) oiling system and it was not a happy ending.... The kind of RPMs the turbo would be spinning @ 25psi would be EXTREAMLY high and I cant see it lasting a "dyno day". Oil heat + inefficient oiling + exhaust heat + friction @ 25psi = Turbocharger failure.


-J

Last edited by Gorilla RE; Mar 3, 2008 at 10:21 AM.
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 02:39 PM
  #35  
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id like to run 15psi all day on a set of non seq!
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 03:12 PM
  #36  
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I dyno'd around 305whp UNCORRECTED at 10psi on a 95 degree day on a dyno with no fan (lol). Stock twins, stock ports, stock fuel, with all the 'bolt-ons'. It would have made more on a cooler day.

I occasionally turned the boost up to 14.5 psi. I never dyno'd at 1 bar, but with the boost turned up I was running down low 12 second cars (12.1-12.2 in 1/4 mile). I suspect I was close to 350 whp.

If you are going to run over 12 psi on the stock fuel system I would recommend a wideband AFR gauge to verify that your engine is getting enough fuel. Mine showed low 11's AFR at 14.5psi. This was with an rx7.com chipped stock ECU. I'm sure my injector duty cycles were getting damn close to 100%.
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 05:17 PM
  #37  
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do not go to jiffy lube, saw a videos of a news station bringing a car there with things maked in it and wanted this and that done. most of them didnt change nothing, me i always stay with the car if its getting something done somewhere, unless its at my mechs i dont mind leaving it
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 05:39 PM
  #38  
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From: Oceanside, CA
i use to work there for a month but they gave me no hours so i left but i know the guy so i know they wouldnt do anything like that but i know what your talking about. ive heard a bunch of stories.
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 07:05 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by internal comsucktion engi
Ummm 25psi on stock twins....?
I know thats what I said too. I had a v-mount, 310 stainless exhaust, and an Electramotive Tech GT. I was dyno tunning and the boost controller poped off. It was cool for like two seconds, then I realized I just dodged a bullet.
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 07:07 PM
  #40  
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a boost spike to 25 psi has nothing whatsoever to do with running that type of boost level
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 07:09 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by internal comsucktion engi
Ehhhh....Well dont get me wrong David, I can see the turbocharger being able to "boost" that high....maybe even higher. But the way he mad it sound, it was on a dyno and put down 400rwhp @ 25psi. All I can think of when I read that is how HOT the air is after being "chopped" up by the compressor wheel. < = detonation...

I've seen what happends @ 17-18 psi on the stock twins (in long term usage) oiling system and it was not a happy ending.... The kind of RPMs the turbo would be spinning @ 25psi would be EXTREAMLY high and I cant see it lasting a "dyno day". Oil heat + inefficient oiling + exhaust heat + friction @ 25psi = Turbocharger failure.


-J
Im not running this, I am running 14psi. Im just saying it happened. I know that much over 15psi is probable death for stock twins. Im lucky that my turbos still work 5k miles later.
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 07:24 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by internal comsucktion engi
Ehhhh....Well dont get me wrong David, I can see the turbocharger being able to "boost" that high....maybe even higher. But the way he mad it sound, it was on a dyno and put down 400rwhp @ 25psi. All I can think of when I read that is how HOT the air is after being "chopped" up by the compressor wheel. < = detonation...

I've seen what happends @ 17-18 psi on the stock twins (in long term usage) oiling system and it was not a happy ending.... The kind of RPMs the turbo would be spinning @ 25psi would be EXTREAMLY high and I cant see it lasting a "dyno day". Oil heat + inefficient oiling + exhaust heat + friction @ 25psi = Turbocharger failure.


-J
I knew what you were getting at I just figured I would post and say I have seen it happen and the engine not let go, I was shocked to say the least.
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 08:38 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by djseven
I knew what you were getting at I just figured I would post and say I have seen it happen and the engine not let go, I was shocked to say the least.
Word.... I figured.
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 08:40 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by FDWarrior
Im not running this, I am running 14psi. Im just saying it happened. I know that much over 15psi is probable death for stock twins. Im lucky that my turbos still work 5k miles later.
Gotchah....But you DID say 400rwhp @ 25psi??? That's why I had the issue

-J
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 09:16 PM
  #45  
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^ I know it happened on a dyno pull. It got to about 4k rpm then we noticed what was happening. The person tunning the car was looking at the AFR's wich were ok the entire time. We stopped at 4k and the chart was reading 400hp and 400 ftlb's of torque. Ill dig up the dyno chart and post it.
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 10:03 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by FDWarrior
^ I know it happened on a dyno pull. It got to about 4k rpm then we noticed what was happening. The person tunning the car was looking at the AFR's wich were ok the entire time. We stopped at 4k and the chart was reading 400hp and 400 ftlb's of torque. Ill dig up the dyno chart and post it.
I see...well FYI, just because your AFR's were "ok the entire time" doesn't mean anything. You can have a solid 10.8 AFR and have detonation. I'd guess you were runing pump fuel huh? Well the inefficient 25psi the stock twins put out + pump fuel is MORE than enough for it to detonate. Your knock is what you need to watch....AFR needs to be right on yes, but you NEED to keep your knock readings down.

-J
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Old Mar 4, 2008 | 04:52 PM
  #47  
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^ know this too. It was just cool to see numbers like that for like 3 seconds. Im just surprised how stout the FD motor is. I had an entire autox season with daily driving after the dyno run, and no problems. I guess the lesson is check all of the important things under the hood before a dyno pull. Now to get the thread back on track, Im making 338 with my current stock twins setup(cant wait to get the money for my porting and single turbo set-up ).
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