I'm pretty certain I access all of them from below.

 

I just did this job about a month ago. You access them all from below.
The two that you are talking about are really tough, but a little patience goes a long way. You have to do it more by feel than sight.
They are 10mm if I remember correctly.
The one on the front side of the engine I did come at from above a couple of times.
It was a "character builder" as my dad used to say.

 

Lots of PB blaster. Lots of patience. haha I just helped a buddy with his...

 

Great timing, I'm working on this right now.

If anyone is still having trouble with the two 10mm bolts on the front oil return line (circled in green in illusion38's photo), I sprayed them with PB blaster (so much better than WD40!) then broke the top one loose with a box wrench. I used a 1/4" drive 10mm socket to get at the rear one. I've got the heater hoses and hard pipes removed, also the vacuum lines and hard pipes in that area; this definitely gives you some more room to work.

 

I too am tackling this process, got them off on Friday. when I first saw the location of the front oil return bolts, It was a definite head scratcher. Just used a 6" 3/8 extension with a swivel adapter, from under the car of course, air tools definitely help. As far as the gaskets go, which connection does the odd ball one go on? A few of mine were just sealed with some silicone.

 

This thread helped me out greatly a few weeks ago, luckily for me all my studs and nuts where salvageable due to the fact that to motor only has 1k on it, i still have a nasty oil leak though . . .

 

removed all the nuts,turbo is off.......now the $@&;$( won't come out the car.Took pipe off,lines,etc,except the lower shield.I've been scratching my head,my a$$,my arms,and no luck.....yet

 

Interesting, as I have both Wurth copper 1800-F and nickle anti-seize 2400-F, and the nickle-based is high-temperature rated than the copper:

http://www.wurthusa.com/project/en/l...roducts_1.html

I've also had better luck with AeroKroil from KanoLabs than PB Blaster.

:-) neil

 

thanks again mahjik, finally getting around to pulling out the brick oven. if anyone needs a pair of stock twins let me know.They ran great till i had the rear coolant seals go out so at least I didnt fire apex seals thru turbos. relatively low miles as far as these things come. If i do put another rotary back in this car its not going to be with these turbos.

 

just finished pulling the turbos a minute ago, to get them out once you have all the bolts removed I had to wiggle it free pulling it toward the fender and up and out towards the front of the car at the same time. If your ac lines are still connected, takig them off of the plastic brackets will allow you to move them far enough away from the actuators to be able to pull it up. If that still doesnt help, remove teh 6 bolts from the front of the turbo where the actuators sit and you can move the actuators around the ac lines a little easier. Having another person help guide them out helps too but I did it solo.depending how high your jack goes, you might be able to push the whole turbo out the back side of the engine bay to the ground but if your jack doesnt go high enough than youll get them pinned underneath the car. hope that helps.

 

I'm just bumping this because it's insanely useful. It really should be in the FAQ.

 

I'll read through it later, and probably add it to the archives.