I just wanted to know the maximum safe operating horsepower range for the stock fd clutch/pressure plate assembly. Thanks guys.

 

In my experience and those of many others, the stock pressure plate starts slipping in the 290-300 rwhp range.

 

similar to the fds that got this range for me..

 

When I got my first FD, the first mods I put on it were the PFS computer, intake, and dp. At the track, I set it to 10psi which is stock, and it went out the door on the first pass, lol......so it won't hold much.

 

300 rwhp and corresponding torque from the stock twins at that rwhp level seems to be about it.

My dad has been running ~290 rwhp on his stock clutch for about 40k miles now with no problems.

 

ok thanks. so my car is only making around 320 at the crank. it should be fine....right? 320 translates to about how many whp? is it like 1/3 drive train loss? i forget.

 

How do you know your crank HP and not your rwhp? Generally people know their wheel HP by dynoing their cars and then guestimate their crank HP. So thats why I'm curious about how you know your crank HP.
M

 

I think the average for a RWD vehicle is about 15% drivetrain loss...

did you have that engine on a engine dyno? how do you know its making 320?

 

Won't hold long past 300 rwhp. Mine started slipping at 39k miles within a week of doing intake, downipe, catback, ecu. Was in good shape prior. The best clutch for any fd in my opinion is the Exeddy twin disk, if you can afford it. Has a light pedal and streatable takeup. ACT is good for the money, lasts pretty long. Centerforce doesn't hold up. The specs I've driven on had very abrupt takeup and a heavy pedal.

 

Also, some dynos have heavy rollers that can prematurely stress a stock clutch.

 

Hello Mr. Huk,

my spec stage 4 (sprung 6 puck) has an abrupt takeup but a very light pedal. I have spoken to other spec clutch owners and they experienced the same light pedal pressure.

personally, I miss my ACT street/strip.....