stiff door handle
#2
Top's always down
iTrader: (5)
Recently, my drivers side door was very stiff, very difficult to open. I usually bypassed the whole headache and opened the door from the inside.
I found out a couple days ago, the door handle was broken and some moron plastic welded it back together. As the plastic(or weld) breaks on the handle, it stops engaging with the release latch and starts flexing. This gives the illusion of stiffness, when actually it's just broken...
In short, no matter what the issue us, the door handle assembly is going to have to come off, so you might as well get it off the car and have a look so you know what needs fixing.
I found out a couple days ago, the door handle was broken and some moron plastic welded it back together. As the plastic(or weld) breaks on the handle, it stops engaging with the release latch and starts flexing. This gives the illusion of stiffness, when actually it's just broken...
In short, no matter what the issue us, the door handle assembly is going to have to come off, so you might as well get it off the car and have a look so you know what needs fixing.
#5
Recently, my drivers side door was very stiff, very difficult to open. I usually bypassed the whole headache and opened the door from the inside.
I found out a couple days ago, the door handle was broken and some moron plastic welded it back together. As the plastic(or weld) breaks on the handle, it stops engaging with the release latch and starts flexing. This gives the illusion of stiffness, when actually it's just broken...
In short, no matter what the issue us, the door handle assembly is going to have to come off, so you might as well get it off the car and have a look so you know what needs fixing.
I found out a couple days ago, the door handle was broken and some moron plastic welded it back together. As the plastic(or weld) breaks on the handle, it stops engaging with the release latch and starts flexing. This gives the illusion of stiffness, when actually it's just broken...
In short, no matter what the issue us, the door handle assembly is going to have to come off, so you might as well get it off the car and have a look so you know what needs fixing.
#6
Patience
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Join Date: Jun 2006
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WD40 attracts dirt like no other....use a graphite powder and you can probably get some more use out of it if nothing is already damaged.
The more you use it when its stiff, the more you slowly tweak things out of place over time.
The more you use it when its stiff, the more you slowly tweak things out of place over time.
#7
gross polluter
iTrader: (2)
Its very easy to take the handle assembly apart enough to clean and lube it up. Just snap off the plastic triangle piece behind it and there are two 10mm nuts. Remove those and you can get around enough to see whats going on. I used some PB Blaster a few years on mine that was starting to stick, has been working great ever since!
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#8
needs more track time
iTrader: (16)
I use Gunk Silicon Spray Lubricant. I usually pull the cover from the inside and just spray it on the movable parts and springs that I see. I do it about once a year.
A stiff door handle is a precursor to a broken door handle caused from the mechanism drying out. Lube it up!
A stiff door handle is a precursor to a broken door handle caused from the mechanism drying out. Lube it up!
#9
Constant threat
Periodic lubrication of the door opening mechanisms is a MUST with these cars. Use your lube of choice (WD-40, PB-Blaster, white-lithium grease, graphite, Astroglide...they all work well) and follow the instructions in the post(s) above and you will be on your way to smoothly opening doors and no broken handles.
#10
Sponsor
iTrader: (41)
Take it apart and grease the internals before it breaks. All you have to do is pop off the plastic interior trim cover and remove the 2 m6x1.0 nuts. Then unfasten the linkage rods from the retaining clips, pull the handle away from the door, and flip it over. It will still be attacked by the wire but thats ok. i like to use lithium grease on the moving parts. WB40 works as well but it will be running down the handle for days and doesn't last very long.
#11
Senior Member
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I know this seems like common sense but "don't reef on the thing one day trying to open it if it gets stuck. It will break!" Go through the passanger door because you will have to anyways when it breaks.
#13
I got a BIG RxTi0N
Join Date: Jun 2004
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WD40 will help but it won't "fix" the problem. I snapped my driver side and had to get a new handle.. then few weeks ago i snaped the internal wire to the lock ... had to rip open the door panel...
#16
rotor rotor pow.
iTrader: (1)
ya clean it and lube it like mentioned above ^^^ and check out the internals to see if anything has slipped out of place or gotten caught
but if its only hard to pull the first 1-2cm i bet your problem might be that the rubber foot behind the pull handle is worn down or has fallen off. this lets the handle to travel past where its supposed to be(too flush to the handle cup) and so its at a awkward angle. see if helps if u stick a ball of tape back there to keep the pullhandle poking out more. if so, thats your problem and u can figure out what to permanantly stick back there. i used a small rubber foot for like a answering maching or something.
but if its only hard to pull the first 1-2cm i bet your problem might be that the rubber foot behind the pull handle is worn down or has fallen off. this lets the handle to travel past where its supposed to be(too flush to the handle cup) and so its at a awkward angle. see if helps if u stick a ball of tape back there to keep the pullhandle poking out more. if so, thats your problem and u can figure out what to permanantly stick back there. i used a small rubber foot for like a answering maching or something.