Just finished up dropping the new used motor and transmission in, started it, it runs fine, but I ran into a little issue with the clutch pedal.

First off, I should mention that the master and slave cylinder are both relatively new.

After numerous attempts of bleeding the clutch (probably about 10 minutes of bleeding) there is no difference in the feel of the pedal. It will not spring up on its own, I have to pull it up, and obviously there is no "springiness" when pushing it down either, it just goes to the floor effortlessly.

Fluid comes out when bleeding, but I read you are supposed to use a clear line and a fluid collector of some sort, like a bottle so it can suck the fluid back up. We did not do this.

So, should I just keep trying it? Should I try the above method? Or dig inside and investigate further?

 

Yeah, that just sounds like you have air in the line. I'm assuming the throwout bearing has been pushed forward and engaged with the pressure plate?

I like using a bottle/clear line because I can watch and make sure I'm getting clear, clean fluid.

Also, the brake master cylinder reservoir has a small "wall" at the back. This can fool you - you're bleeding the clutch, the reservoir looks like it still has plenty of fluid, but the rearmost section is dry and you're sucking air. Been there, done that. It's a good design - if the clutch hydraulics fail, you don't also lose your brakes.

If you have fresh master/slave hydraulics, bleeding can sometimes be tricky the first time. Also, make sure the fittings aren't leaking anywhere.

Dale

 

Oh, reading your post again, I want to be clear on bleeding technique.

Have a buddy with you. Have him push the pedal to the floor, then you open the bleed screw, letting fluid out, then close the screw and have him bring the pedal back up. Repeat.

Can also help to pump the pedal a few times then push down and bleed. This can pump some of the air out.

Dale

 

This I have not done, I will search for a write up, but if you know of one you could link to me, that would be awesome.

 

Update: found a writeup, did it, but as i removed the cover plate, this little guy fell out.





What is it?

 

That would be the end of your slave cylinder . That's what happens when you don't engage the throwout bearing.

Unbolt the slave cylinder and put it back together. Pop the throwout bearing into place, install the slave, and bleed. You're downhill now, chief .

Dale

 

Ahhh, Thank you for all of your help, in this thread, and others. I truly do not know where I would be without you, and others on this forum.

 

There are allot of good people on this forum that are very helpfull.

 

I've been in the process of a motor swap for about two weeks now, and although the swap itself went nearly flawlessly, all the little things are coming out and haunting my hopes and dreams of ever getting this car back on the road.

To begin with, the slave and master cylinder were both replaced less then 5,000 miles ago. After swapping the motor and transmission, I attempted to bleed the slave, numerous times, all to no avail. After many, many tries, I figured the slave HAD to be bad, due to the fact that whenever I pushed the clutch, it would leak fluid, even with the bleeder closed, and the little boot was filled with fluid (its my understanding that the interior of the boot should be dry.)

So, when my new slave cylinder arrived this morning, I figured it would be just a simple install, two bolts and one hard line, and the car would be on the road within the hour. Well I come to find that the hard line on the slave side was completely stripped out. However, after some creativity, I managed to get it off, and on to the new slave with a nice snug fit.

I figure great, now all I do is bleed it, and the car will be ready to go. Nope. The same issue as before. But heres whats baffling me: The fluid is seeping from the transmission peak hole, where you are supposed to engage the throwout bearing from. I SUSPECT that the fluid can ONLY be coming from the boot on the slave cylinder, as there is no other way for the fluid to get inside the transmission, and leak from that particular peak hole.

At this point I'm completely baffled, which is why I felt the need to write such a long post. Could both of my slaves be bad? Even though one is brand new?

Heres what I've done:

I DID engage the throwout bearing
I DID line the slave up in the forks properly (Although does it matter if the rod is completely compressed, or fully extended?)
I DID try every method of bleeding the slave EXCEPT pumping the fluid through it.
I DID search until I felt like puking
I DID NOT use a clutch centering tool when I installed the new clutch

 

Sounds like your throw-out bearing is not locked into the pressure plate. If this happens, the piston for the slave cylinder will push out too far causing fluid to leak into the bell housing.

 

When I engaged it, I could visibly see that it moved forward, and made a faint noise, but maybe its not all the way engaged, or maybe I pushed the wrong part of it. And after watching the video you posted of engaging it in the FAQ I may very well have. I'll look into it

 

update:

I'm aware its an awful picture, but thats a pretty tight space to try and snap a quality photograph:




Whats circled in red, is that what I'm supposed to push in?

 

That should be the wedge collar. That's what should hold the throw-out beating into the pressure plate. I can't tell anything from that picture though...

 

I took probably 20 pictures, but only a handful came out, and this was the best one. Towards the right is the front of the transmission, and the left is the rear. I believe the throwout bearing to be in the center of the picture, although I do not have very much experience in this type of project. Either way, I can push that wedge collar forward, and get into snap into place, but as soon as I play with the throwout bearing, it just snaps right back out. I have tried pushing the throwout bearing forward with quite a bit of force, but it really doesnt "lock" into place. So I guess what I'm asking is, does it require A LOT of force to engage it?

 

If the wedge collar is damaged, and it sounds like it is, the transmission needs to come back out and the collar replaced. The collar has feet which grip on the back of the pressure plate. If any of those have been fatigued (i.e. bent around at all), it won't work as it should any longer. If you can get a better picture, we should be able to see if the throw-out bearing is not locked in place for sure.

 

its very very hard to get a picture in there, but this is the best i can do:

 

http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...58290919&hl=en

This should help

 

project06tj,

Remove the slave cylinder. Take a long screw driver or something similar and push on the clutch fork. If you don't have any resistance, there is a problem with the the wedge collar. The fact that you keep dumping fluid from the slave cylinder seems to point to the piston being over-extended.

 

There IS resistance on the fork, but it almost seems like its to much. I couldn't even budge it by hand, and when I tried bleeding the slave again, I made sure it was in place on the fork, and it just shot out, as if it couldn't push the fork.....

 

pull the slave again, and entirely disconnect it. I ran into something similar when i was playing with my car, and if i remember correctly, there is both a piston and kind of a baffle in there that pushes on the piston when you press the clutch. Obviously if the latter is missing, the clutch doesn't work and bad things happen. Also make sure the end of the plunger for the slave cylinder ends up in the little recess on the clutch fork, if it doesn't then it will just slip out and overextend itself when you press on the clutch.

The fact that you cant budge the pressure plate by hand shouldn't be a problem as frankly that slave cylinder puts out a hell of a lot of pressure, much more than you can achieve easily in a cramped space. Pushing the fork with a screwdriver was simply to check if the wedge collar was engaging with the pressure plate properly, which it seems to be doing. GL

 

You need to make sure the piston of the slave cylinder is in the dimple on the clutch fork when you install it. As mentioned, there is quite a bit of force coming from the slave cylinder to move the fork. If the piston is not in the dimple on the fork, it will just slide to the side and all the fluid will shoot into the housing.

 

I did what you said, and sure enough it was just improperly installed, and slipping off the fork. Thanks guys.