rtrylvr

iTrader: (2)

It sounds like you are very tenacious at finding out the root cause of a problem that has seemed to plague so many of us that own these machines. While your ohms law doesn't lie, it still doesn't explain why the starter booster works. The problem I was having would happen cold and seemed to get worse with heat, so that does explain why the problem was worse after running the car for a fair distance. I only had one incident since I installed the starter booster and I believe it's because I believe the original connector that goes to terminal "s" wasn't connecting properly on my relay. It didn't seem very snug when I originally connected it and I didn't like the fit of it. The connector on the starter is a slide-lock connector, but the connector on the relay is just plain Jane. I cut the factory connector off and crimped on a new slide connector that fits more snug on the relay. Even if I for some reason had to revert back to the original configuration that connector would still work on terminal "s". So now the real question when it comes to your theory is, how do you insulate the wire so it isn't as affected by heat? I wonder if some of that aluminum tape that is used for ductwork would work? Interesting to say the least....

wstrohm

That problem usually occurs only if the wire gauge is insufficient for the current it has to carry. A copper wire's resistance does increase with temperature, but in general if it meets AWG recommendations, the increase would be very small and so would the resultant increase in voltage drop as temperature rises. A more likely cause is a corroded connection, either between male/female connectors in the path, or a problem with the internal connection between a harness wire and the connector terminal to which it is allegedly "bonded," usually by crimping.

rtrylvr

iTrader: (2)

Well folks, I went out this morning to start it up and it was back to it's old tricks again. I really feel like I've exhausted all my ideas at this point. The only thing that is left that someone had mentioned is possibly the ignition switch itself. It seems as if the ignition switch is fine since all my lights go out when I turn the key to the start position, but perhaps there is enough of a voltage drop across it to cause an issue. If anyone else has any ideas, I'm open to suggestions at this point. To recap I've checked the clutch switch, the security relay, ran a new 8 gauge wire to the positive and negative side of the circuit, and added a starter booster.

AzEKnightz

iTrader: (24)

I am not sure if this has been covered, but have you Voltage drop test on the igniton switch yet?

-AzEKnightz

danewbern

FWIW, Rotary Performance put a different relay on mine several years ago I was have this same problem. I replaced the starter and did a lit of the same rigging but still was plagued. I have not looked at it in years, but am pretty sure it takes the positive from the ignition switch to connect a relay that is hooked to the positive on the starter. when the switch is turned, the solenoid gets full power from the battery. your a bit far away for them, but you could probably give them a call and they could talk you through it.

rtrylvr

iTrader: (2)

If you look at the schematic of the "starter booster", it's exactly what you're talking about. I've done that and I'm still having the same issue. I'm going to check the ignition switch next, because with that relay in place any 12 volt signal to the relay should activate it and apply full power to the solenoid.

rtrylvr

iTrader: (2)

Well, I don't know if anyone still cares, but the last time this happened I did hook a test light up to both the ignition switch (start position) and to the wire for terminal "S" on the starter. I was getting a light for the ignition switch, but not the wire for terminal "S". So I was going to once again go down the line and check the clutch switch, security relay, etc and noticed that I still had my clutch switch bypassed with a piece of solid conductor copper wire from last year when I was troubleshooting this. Plugged it back in and it's started every time since. I have to wonder if that wire wasn't making good contact this whole time and my original problem was fixed by the starter booster. Things that make you go hmmm.

nguybao

iTrader: (6)

Hmmmmmm . At least it's fixed now!

rtrylvr

iTrader: (2)

I hope it's fixed anyway. This problem seems to clear up and then plague me at random inconvenient times.