3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.
Sponsored by:

stalls out after turning the steering wheel

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-03-04, 05:16 AM
  #1  
Rotor Shaped Blood Cells

Thread Starter
 
Stevey629's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: San Diego
Posts: 569
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
stalls out after turning the steering wheel

as the title says. At a low low speed, like driving around a parking lot or just backing the car up and turning the wheel, the car bogs itself out and nearly stalls most of the time, and even occasionally stalls completely after hesitation around 200-100 RPMs. The only way to keep this from happening is to really get on the gas and keep it running. Oil pressure gauge is low when running, as I have a minor oil leak coming from somewhere near the oil pan gasket, (probably is that) but its not major. Its definitely noticeable though. Weird thing about it is, that I have been keeping an eye on my oil levels, and the dipstick says Im full.

This motor is new, 1k miles on it now, boosts fine on a street port, with an exhaust and filter. UNFORTUNATELY, I have no ECU for any of this, and I'm really pushing limits of chance here, as my exhaust turbine housings are glowing nice and orange as is the exhaust after running. The car still feels ridiculously unresponsive, as Im assuming that the CATS are clogged up, but why the stalling out?

This car is such a pain in the *** to drive. It feels slow, stalls out, runs hot as hell, smells like burning oil when warm, but I am not getting any coolant loss, no APPARENT oil loss, and or course, its mad unresponsive. Feels like a damn N/A with less than 100 horsepower...not that I've been gettin on it since Im trying to be easy on the motor during break-in, but 30-50% throttle yields nearly nothing.
GRR.. ok. Im done. Thx for any help in advance, Im just frustrated. Im sure I'll be fine tommorow. And yes, I know I need a computer, a downpipe and midpipe. Funds? non-existent. And before you say it, I don't have money for a new motor either, but the CPU, DP and midpipe are hopefully comin' soon.
Old 01-03-04, 07:41 AM
  #2  
WTB** Very Low Miles 94-95

 
artguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Tejas
Posts: 3,298
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
is this thread a joke? seriously.

foolishness....you should not be driving the car like that AT ALL. PERIOD. END OF ARGUMENT.

you are completely clueless about your fd man. hot as hell huh...well you are literally baking your coolant seals...so park the fukking thing. clogged cats...no dp..hahahhahahahhahahahhaha....there goes the neighborhood.

honestly man...you have to take it in to the shop. i cant believe you are out driving it like that. no wonder you have a new motor in there. truly.

if this thread is not a joke...then go over to rotary reliability and racing 7148398018 is who built much of my car. they are in santa ana.


j

Last edited by artguy; 01-03-04 at 08:00 AM.
Old 01-03-04, 07:45 AM
  #3  
WTB** Very Low Miles 94-95

 
artguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Tejas
Posts: 3,298
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
omg..this thread isnt a joke

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=222446


come on man..quit driving it until its fixed. you have a ton of problems..one of them is no cash...save some money..do it right...or you will pay thousands to do it again within the next few months.

stay the hell away from whoever your mechanic in san deigo is.

the car will run with a stock ecu and a mild street port. as long as you are not running the midpipe or boosting past stock levels it will run fine. It is not smart..but it will run and not like a dog either. you have a whole host of undiagnosed issues.

you can get a used cat from someone for 20 bucks most likely. you can pick up a used dp for 100 or so...that will help. you can put the cat on yourself in ten minutes...you can pay for the dp install when you take it in and get it all diagnosed.

your best bet is to take fifty bucks up to rotary reliability and racing and have them diagnose the car. they may even do the diagnosis for free if you get your repairs done there at the same time. tell them that I sent you there.


jason

Last edited by artguy; 01-03-04 at 08:02 AM.
Old 01-03-04, 02:52 PM
  #4  
PV = nRT

 
clayne's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: New Zealand (was California)
Posts: 2,250
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Seriously Stevey.

Stop driving the car before you end up destroying your new engine. Borrow a crap car from a relative or friend until you can get a new ECU, downpipe, and catalytic convertor.

You have no visibility to what is occuring with the car - and as such you should not attempt to wing things or rely on chance. I guarantee you this is a storybook case for mechanical tragedy if you continue.
Old 01-03-04, 07:47 PM
  #5  
Rotor Shaped Blood Cells

Thread Starter
 
Stevey629's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: San Diego
Posts: 569
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Guys, I totally realize that the car is obviously running hot and it will ultimately shorten life of the motor if not completely destroy it. Is replacing the stock cat with another stock cat first a better idea than doing the DP or pre-cat first? I wanna figure out if its just my cat, just my pre-cat, or both. Which one first basically? And if you're saying I am ok to run with a stock ECU, then wtf? I have enough funding for at least the exhaust mods.
I was hoping maybe someone would be able to tell me if there is some other problem aside from the exhaust system that would be causing the stalling.
Listen, sorry to be such an "idiot" with my car, but Ive had a lot of people look at my car, mechanics and fellow FD owners included, and some of its symptoms are things they've never seen before. Im sure its something small, or at least hoping it is. Sorry for the complaints, ****. Just lookin' for a way to vent. I'll take my rantings elsewhere next time.

And the first motor was stock, and I babied the ******* thing. It was on its last legs when I got it. I have never revved the car over 5500 during its entire life from purchase to this day, let alone ever floored it, so don't start pitting blame on the driver for gettin on it too hard and going through motors like its nobodys business.
Old 01-03-04, 10:49 PM
  #6  
PV = nRT

 
clayne's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: New Zealand (was California)
Posts: 2,250
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
1. PRE-CAT.
2. MAIN CAT
3. ECU.
Old 01-04-04, 11:49 AM
  #7  
WTB** Very Low Miles 94-95

 
artguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Tejas
Posts: 3,298
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
go see the guys at rotary reliability and racing.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
NCross
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
9
08-29-15 01:55 PM



Quick Reply: stalls out after turning the steering wheel



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:20 PM.