stalls after 1/4 throttle and backfires...
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stalls after 1/4 throttle and backfires...
my car wont go past 1/4 throttle without stalling then it will backfire after you try to go past 1/4 throttle. im pretty sure it will run as high in the rpm's you want as long as you dont go past 1/4 throttle. it holds good vaccum (15) but wont go above 0. any help is appreciated...
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sounds like the ecu is in limp mode. you should check the car for stored error codes and see what pops up. i had a similar problem and it was the wastegate control actuator sending an error code because the connection was loose.
edit. i just saw rynberg's post that appeared while i was posting. listen to him first. he's made suggestions that have helped me in the past.
edit. i just saw rynberg's post that appeared while i was posting. listen to him first. he's made suggestions that have helped me in the past.
Last edited by legal-z; 04-11-05 at 05:46 PM.
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everything checks out fine. i havent checked the tps yet, ive read up on it but dont know how to do it. ill have to have my friend do it. im kinda thinking its in the fire, ive swapped spark plug wires around, and swapped injector plugs, but nothing was different. anything else you guys can think of?...
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Originally Posted by z4csl428
if im not mistaken i pulled 15 and 12 engine codes, oxygen sensor and throttle sensor-full range
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and 3.5 hrs ago i said i didnt know how to do it and i dont have a voltmeter, i know how to do it now so i will get one tomorrow and adjust it...
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i repulled codes and got the actual codes. i got 5-knock sensor, 11-Intake air thermosensor (engine), and 16 more codes that came up as solenoids that have been removed during the emission removal and non-sequential mod. what are those 2 codes that i pulled?...
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Code 5 = knock sensor, this is the piezoelectric microphone in the engine block to detect knock. Either it is malfunctioning or, more commonly, the connector is damaged or not connected. I believe this puts the stock ECU into "limp home" mode, but I'm not sure.
Code 11 = intake thermosensor. This is the intake air temp sensor on the underside of the UIM. It is either faulty or not connected. The ecu adjusts fuel and timing based on the air temp. This code might also throw the ECU into limp mode.
As far as the other codes go, you can't just remove solenoids while running the stock ECU! You will freak out the ECU! You have to either run a standalone ECU or put resistors in the wiring to trick the stock ECU. I believe you need 330-ohm, 1/2-watt resistors.
Next time, you should really do a bit more research before just removing things from your engine bay. It will save you a lot of grief.
Code 11 = intake thermosensor. This is the intake air temp sensor on the underside of the UIM. It is either faulty or not connected. The ecu adjusts fuel and timing based on the air temp. This code might also throw the ECU into limp mode.
As far as the other codes go, you can't just remove solenoids while running the stock ECU! You will freak out the ECU! You have to either run a standalone ECU or put resistors in the wiring to trick the stock ECU. I believe you need 330-ohm, 1/2-watt resistors.
Next time, you should really do a bit more research before just removing things from your engine bay. It will save you a lot of grief.
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i didnt remove anything, all that was done by the previous owner. i bought the car 2 weeks ago and the motor blew due to the hose being off the fuel pump regulator. i replaced the motor and now this is happening...
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