Stall On Decel/Clutch In
#28
So I got my car back from my mechanic today and thought I would share the results for anyone interested.
I did not know, however, I'm sure many did that, there was a reflashed ECU offered by Mazda to cure many of the issues I am having.
This is the description as printed from Mitchell Repair Information Co., LLC
Some of the 1993 Rx-7 vehicles may experience stalling during deceleration with the throttle
released, and approaching a stop. This occurs during initial warm up and, sometimes, after
reaching normal operating temperatures. The engine will restart easily and stalling may not
occur again until the next cold start.
Also, when idling with the A/C on, the engine speed decreases as the A/C compressor
engages and idle fluctuation may occur.
The ECU has been modified as a countermeasure. If any of the above symptoms are
encountered replace the ECU. The modified ECU is designed to:
1. Make necessary air-fuel adjustments to maintain stable idle at all
temperatues (for A/T & M/T)
2. Turn off the A/C compressor when the clutch pedal is depressed or when
the accelerator pedal is released (for M/T)
I received a set of parts numbers based on whether the car is in california or not, and M/T or
A/T for what the new ECU# would be. I can provide those if anyone is interested
I will probably be going with a PFC as I think it is definately a waste to order this ECU, if my
eventual route is the PFC anyway.
No grounding problems, my idle is perfect, clutch switch also has perfect continuity.
Time to save $$$ for the PFC....
I did not know, however, I'm sure many did that, there was a reflashed ECU offered by Mazda to cure many of the issues I am having.
This is the description as printed from Mitchell Repair Information Co., LLC
Some of the 1993 Rx-7 vehicles may experience stalling during deceleration with the throttle
released, and approaching a stop. This occurs during initial warm up and, sometimes, after
reaching normal operating temperatures. The engine will restart easily and stalling may not
occur again until the next cold start.
Also, when idling with the A/C on, the engine speed decreases as the A/C compressor
engages and idle fluctuation may occur.
The ECU has been modified as a countermeasure. If any of the above symptoms are
encountered replace the ECU. The modified ECU is designed to:
1. Make necessary air-fuel adjustments to maintain stable idle at all
temperatues (for A/T & M/T)
2. Turn off the A/C compressor when the clutch pedal is depressed or when
the accelerator pedal is released (for M/T)
I received a set of parts numbers based on whether the car is in california or not, and M/T or
A/T for what the new ECU# would be. I can provide those if anyone is interested
I will probably be going with a PFC as I think it is definately a waste to order this ECU, if my
eventual route is the PFC anyway.
No grounding problems, my idle is perfect, clutch switch also has perfect continuity.
Time to save $$$ for the PFC....
#32
Full Member
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Brooksville Florida
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
.
I started a post like this too ..
I just changed my switch & its been fine ..
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/car-stalling-c-91723/
I started a post like this too ..
I just changed my switch & its been fine ..
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/car-stalling-c-91723/
#36
rotorhead
iTrader: (3)
uh dude just get an N3C1 (94 stock fed spec ECU) used for like $20-$50
I actually GAVE ONE AWAY recently because nobody would buy it. i gave it to a local shop that wanted to dump the chip and compare it to some Honda ECUs.
PFC's are fine but they have their own set of idle problems. If your car has hardly any mods I'd stay with the factory computer.
EDIT: I believe it is an NC31 you need, I originally put N3A2 but that's not right
I actually GAVE ONE AWAY recently because nobody would buy it. i gave it to a local shop that wanted to dump the chip and compare it to some Honda ECUs.
PFC's are fine but they have their own set of idle problems. If your car has hardly any mods I'd stay with the factory computer.
EDIT: I believe it is an NC31 you need, I originally put N3A2 but that's not right
Last edited by arghx; 09-23-09 at 05:44 PM. Reason: N3C1
#37
We'll I did consider that route, since I have definately seen them used for that price
However, I am currently running an HKS RS Intake and have sitting in my garage
a test pipe, RB dual tip and I am waiting on an HKS downpipe. With the obvious
lack of restriction going in I thought the PFC would be the safer bet.
However, I am currently running an HKS RS Intake and have sitting in my garage
a test pipe, RB dual tip and I am waiting on an HKS downpipe. With the obvious
lack of restriction going in I thought the PFC would be the safer bet.
#39
Well its been a while since I posted the status, but now that I've got all my new parts in
and went through the the proper 'learn idle' procedure on the PowerFC the base 'mod' map is
running Great! I have zero stalling issues.
None, whatsoever to speak of.
Just have to look into some of the settings for I think its "Injector Cranking?" since its a little
hard to start the car compared to the stock ECU. But thats for a different thread at a different
time. (after lots of searching)
Thanks again for all the suggestions everyone
Josh
and went through the the proper 'learn idle' procedure on the PowerFC the base 'mod' map is
running Great! I have zero stalling issues.
None, whatsoever to speak of.
Just have to look into some of the settings for I think its "Injector Cranking?" since its a little
hard to start the car compared to the stock ECU. But thats for a different thread at a different
time. (after lots of searching)
Thanks again for all the suggestions everyone
Josh
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
toplessFC3Sman
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
6
03-20-18 01:54 PM
REX7&Z32TT
New Member RX-7 Technical
5
09-09-15 05:16 AM