i was thinking about changing as many nuts and bolts as i can to ss. why? because 80% of the hardware on my car is corroded. not corroded enough to not be re-used but corroded enough that its ugly and should be replaced.

i was advised against using ss hardware in some places such as suspension components and such. with the whole unlike metals touching each other and the different strengths of the metals. i just wanted some more input on making the change over....

 

I have thought about doing this but decided to refurbish the stock nuts and bolts using a tumbler.
Here is what I got from harbor freight - I think i spent $40 on it. they are always having a sale.
5 Lb. Metal Vibrator / Tumbler

 

Engine - Rotary : Himni Racing, Turbocharger, Turbo, Garrett, Turbo Kit, GReddy, Mazda RX-7, HKS, Apexi, TiAL, TurboXS, TurboSmart, Flange, Turbonetics, Exhaust, Intercooler, ACT, Intake

scroll to middle of page, there are different SS bolt/nuts kit.

-EZ

 

yes... those are all for the engine. im talking about using ss hardware for everywhere on the body of the car.

 

sure, of course you can. Be prepare to pay a sh*t ton of money =)

-AzEKnightz

 

Yes definitely do not use stainless bolts/nuts on your suspension. The tensile strength is lower than steel, its more brittle & more prone to galling etc. I wouldn't trust stainless on any important load bearing joint.

For anything non load bearing, sure, I've done the same. Copper slip on everything, too .

 

I go the local U-PULL-IT lot if they have such a thing where you're at. I find a MAZDA, usually a 90's era and collect fasteners from the interior. Most/all of those are plated and still in pristine shape since they were inside during the life of the car. I've got a collection of 10mm, 12mm and 14mm, plus plastic screws and even a bunch of the plastic interior retainers (the ones where you pull the center out to remove. Fill up my pockets for the price of admission ($2). A side note, 2nd Gen. Ford Probes are MAZDA and use the same cowl screw covers and hood prop-rod retainers.
I wouldn't use stainless for suspension either, but bring a sample bolt or nut from your car and find a later model MAZDA or other import and match it up to a nicer version.
For cosmetics under the hood I've gradually replaced all the bolts and nuts with stainless from the local Westlake/ACE. Probably have $50-$75 total in it. Mostly socket head stuff, sometimes with washers. And some stainless acorn nuts. I saved all the original bolts that were painted.

 

You could get your existing bolts zinc coated or something similar. Google for it. I'd suggest that over generic aftermarket fasteners. The OEM stuff is very high quality and uses excellent metals. Not always easy to find something truly equivalent aftermarket.

I tend to hit the bolts on my car with a wire brush to clean them up before re-installing anything that I happen to work on.

 

I use stainless on the front fender bolts and bolts under the car that are going to be exposed to weather, road dirt, grime, etc.

Nothing load bearing though. I'm talking all the 10mm small bolts.

Stainless must be the correct grade or it will not be the equivalent strength as carbon steel graded bolts that are used in the larger loaded assemblies for a good reason.

Dress up areas = stainless.

Working/load bearing areas = graded high tensile bolts/factory stock.

 

Well, as a mechanical engineer, I'll call you on that one. With careful selection of bolt properties, you should be able to replace most bolts with a stainless steel equivalent. That's not to say going down to the local hardware store and picking up some stainless steel bolts to replace critical or high load fittings will do the trick. Here is a simplified guide to bolt selection. Stainless steel bolts of various grades and properties are available, but as one poster said you're gong to pay through the nose and in most cases you can not buy just a couple of bolts. The other problem is that Mazda used some non-standard bolts in a few areas, and those are not available in stainless steel.

My approach has been to leave any high strength stuff alone and replace everything else with stainless steel as I remove and replace things. I keep a supply of all the typical types and sizes in stainless steel on hand. So, when ever the mood hits I change out a few, been doing that since '94 and most of the stuff now has stainless steel, it makes removal and replacement much easier now.

 

I'd check out getting a tumbler or media cabinet to remove the old finish from your bolts and use a product like Copy Cad setup from Caswell or something along those lines to get a very close to stock fit and finish.

-David Guy