Stainless Steel Hardware
#1
Stainless Steel Hardware
i was thinking about changing as many nuts and bolts as i can to ss. why? because 80% of the hardware on my car is corroded. not corroded enough to not be re-used but corroded enough that its ugly and should be replaced.
i was advised against using ss hardware in some places such as suspension components and such. with the whole unlike metals touching each other and the different strengths of the metals. i just wanted some more input on making the change over....
i was advised against using ss hardware in some places such as suspension components and such. with the whole unlike metals touching each other and the different strengths of the metals. i just wanted some more input on making the change over....
#2
Big Bird's Here!!!
iTrader: (26)
I have thought about doing this but decided to refurbish the stock nuts and bolts using a tumbler.
Here is what I got from harbor freight - I think i spent $40 on it. they are always having a sale.
5 Lb. Metal Vibrator / Tumbler
Here is what I got from harbor freight - I think i spent $40 on it. they are always having a sale.
5 Lb. Metal Vibrator / Tumbler
#3
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (24)
Engine - Rotary : Himni Racing, Turbocharger, Turbo, Garrett, Turbo Kit, GReddy, Mazda RX-7, HKS, Apexi, TiAL, TurboXS, TurboSmart, Flange, Turbonetics, Exhaust, Intercooler, ACT, Intake
scroll to middle of page, there are different SS bolt/nuts kit.
-EZ
scroll to middle of page, there are different SS bolt/nuts kit.
-EZ
#6
Non Runner
iTrader: (3)
Yes definitely do not use stainless bolts/nuts on your suspension. The tensile strength is lower than steel, its more brittle & more prone to galling etc. I wouldn't trust stainless on any important load bearing joint.
For anything non load bearing, sure, I've done the same. Copper slip on everything, too .
For anything non load bearing, sure, I've done the same. Copper slip on everything, too .
#7
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
i was thinking about changing as many nuts and bolts as i can to ss. why? because 80% of the hardware on my car is corroded. not corroded enough to not be re-used but corroded enough that its ugly and should be replaced.
i was advised against using ss hardware in some places such as suspension components and such. with the whole unlike metals touching each other and the different strengths of the metals. i just wanted some more input on making the change over....
i was advised against using ss hardware in some places such as suspension components and such. with the whole unlike metals touching each other and the different strengths of the metals. i just wanted some more input on making the change over....
I wouldn't use stainless for suspension either, but bring a sample bolt or nut from your car and find a later model MAZDA or other import and match it up to a nicer version.
For cosmetics under the hood I've gradually replaced all the bolts and nuts with stainless from the local Westlake/ACE. Probably have $50-$75 total in it. Mostly socket head stuff, sometimes with washers. And some stainless acorn nuts. I saved all the original bolts that were painted.
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#8
needs more track time
iTrader: (16)
You could get your existing bolts zinc coated or something similar. Google for it. I'd suggest that over generic aftermarket fasteners. The OEM stuff is very high quality and uses excellent metals. Not always easy to find something truly equivalent aftermarket.
I tend to hit the bolts on my car with a wire brush to clean them up before re-installing anything that I happen to work on.
I tend to hit the bolts on my car with a wire brush to clean them up before re-installing anything that I happen to work on.
#9
I use stainless on the front fender bolts and bolts under the car that are going to be exposed to weather, road dirt, grime, etc.
Nothing load bearing though. I'm talking all the 10mm small bolts.
Stainless must be the correct grade or it will not be the equivalent strength as carbon steel graded bolts that are used in the larger loaded assemblies for a good reason.
Dress up areas = stainless.
Working/load bearing areas = graded high tensile bolts/factory stock.
Nothing load bearing though. I'm talking all the 10mm small bolts.
Stainless must be the correct grade or it will not be the equivalent strength as carbon steel graded bolts that are used in the larger loaded assemblies for a good reason.
Dress up areas = stainless.
Working/load bearing areas = graded high tensile bolts/factory stock.
#10
Always Bad Advice
My approach has been to leave any high strength stuff alone and replace everything else with stainless steel as I remove and replace things. I keep a supply of all the typical types and sizes in stainless steel on hand. So, when ever the mood hits I change out a few, been doing that since '94 and most of the stuff now has stainless steel, it makes removal and replacement much easier now.