joeydinc

OK so I just got my FD. It's pretty well taken care of, BUT WHO KNOWS whats been done to it maintenance wise. So be safe I'm changing a few things out.

Stage 1 (which will happen soon)
-Sparkplugs/wires
-fuel filter (maybe even remote)
-engine oil
-tranny/diff oil
- water/coolant change.
- seafoam treatment (vacum)
- checking for oil and vacum leaks

Stage 2 (near future)
- Replacing all vacum lines
- replacing gaskets of removed part (duh I know)
- maybe sending my injectors out to be cleaned and at that point replacing the seals
- replacing downpipe

Stage 3
- upgraded radiator
- and more probably

stage one for me will be a big one and I'm not to sure about what parts to use, I was told redline/Neo were good for the diff and tranny. But what do people use for the engine oil, I've ALWAYS used Mobil 1, and was thinking of using 10-40.


So questions:
- What oil to use in the engine and weight?
- What sparkplugs to use (IE OEM style or Uber $$ ones)
- And are the cheap XS Power Ebay intercooler kits worth a damn (the one that keeps intercooler in the same place? this is more of a joke but I am curious.
Lastly any thing you think I'm missing that should be done or checked.


and yes I've read FAQ, and searched and so on, plus I've owned an FC before so I have a bit of an idea of where to go with this, I just wanted personal opinion and I'm excited about my car darnit!!!!! lol

joeydinc

also forgot to mention at the same time I will be putting in a turbo timer and boost gauge as well as a accurate temp gauge and eventualy an oil temp gauge.

rx7goomba

Water temp gauge should be right up there with the most important upgrades also.

joeydinc

ya I've learned after installed a few and many tests that you can't trust the stock temp "meter"

I already have the temp gauge from my GTX

preludesh2000

iTrader: (1)

change your fluids (like you said) i use valvoline 10w/30....cause the guy i bought the car off of has used it since day one....ngk plugs...pep boys has them in stock around here...
downpipe should be up there, with boost gauge, and temp gauge ...
and like i learned off of mahjik....if you didnt touch the vacuum lines and you have a good boost pattern ...dont touch the vacuum lines ...
good luck

RaPtOr-T

Fsunoles06

Dont waste your money on a turbo timer. Spend it on one of the many other reliability upgrades you can do to your car. A turbo timer really is pointless unless you cant take it easy on the turbos for at least 30seconds-1minute before you reach your destination.

Plus the stock twins are oil and water cooled.

joeydinc

I have a turbo timer already lol,

ok so hold off on the lines for a while you say? I think I'm going to order my DP soon.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Well worth noting: if you leave your vacuum lines alone that pretty much prevents reaching the fuel injectors. Also prevents reaching the FPD, which I recommend you change if you're pulling the injectors.

10w-30 is as thin as I'd permit in my engine. 15w-50 is the other very popular choice.

If you're methodical and able to read a diagram, then changing vacuum lines is not rocket science. If you are the kind of person who feels the need to get every DIY job done in one day, do not attempt the vacuum lines, because you need to take your time on that job.

For plugs, I use OEM and most folks do too - the only difference is the higher HP guys use different heat ranges. You also have the choice of regular plugs vs. platinum plugs ($10 vs $45). I suggest you start with the regular plugs, and if they don't foul out, replace them at 5k with platinums. The platinums last longer, but if your engine likes to foul plugs its a world of suck to be replacing plats all the time.

Dave

tphan

This is already mention but again IMO leave the vaccumm job out UNLESS they are leaking.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

Don't mess with the vacuum lines. You have a low mileage car, and they are probably fine.
Don't install a turbo timer. They are stupid useless devices for kids that don't know any better.
Any synthetic oil will be fine. Since you live in a mild climate, I recommend 10/30. I get Mobil One at Costco.
Downpipe is a good Mod. Helps everything!!
Don't pull the injectors. Again, you have a low mileage car. Use an injector cleaner instead. I recommend BG44k, once a year. Not more than once a year!!!
NGK spark plugs are very good. Use stock plugs.
Change the fuel filter.
Do the fan mod.

joeydinc

ok got yeah, sounds like I'm pretty on track so far then, I was thinking of the heavier weight oil like the 15-50 (redline I believe?) 5w-20 could be banned (damn rx8)


Adam c: lol sorry I never called you back, I've been sick/crazy busy.

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

Don't forget your accessory belts, they're only $20 or so, and it probably wouldn't hurt to install a new OEM thermostat (use only a Mazda t-stat) since that requires you to remove the belts.

-s-

silverTRD

iTrader: (37)

an aluminum AST would be a wise investment also

joeydinc

ya I know about the mazda Thermostats. Two of my mazda's had a problem after using a non mazda thermostat. after that stopped using anything but factory stuff like that.

Touge Monster

iTrader: (2)

I would go with the following upgrades asap-
AST
Downpipe
Water temp & boost gauges

I use 10/40 Redline because I found 10/30 was too thin and Mazda/NGK spark plugs.

Your stage 1 looks great btw and I wouldnt change anything on it.

ZumSpeedRX-7

iTrader: (12)

you're on the right track. i'd do maintanence first, then go performance from there.
Vacuum lines- AST- Fluids- Spark Plugs and Wires- Radiator- Downpipe. good luck with the project.

ZumSpeedRX-7

iTrader: (12)

oh yea, the factory gauges arent enough to go by. by the time your water temp gauge light comes on, you've already overheated and are almost ready to blow.
get a boost gauge, water temp gauge, and exhaust temp gauge to keep track of all the irmportant parts of your car.
dont forget the rule of 3. after you've changed anything that changes the air or fuel set up (i.e. exhaust, intake, fuel) get a computer to tune your car. i went with a Power FC. but there are many more options.

joeydinc

lol and what about those XS Power Intercoolers? (factory location)

joeydinc

I ordered my downpipe today, it has a midpipe with it, but does anybody know whether the mid pipe replaces the main cat? I havn't looked under the car to see how far back the main cat is. (yes I realize the precats are going, thankfully)

Friday (when I get paid) I will be ordering a couple of gauges. boost and oil temp more than likely

adam c

iTrader: (2)

Do not install the mid pipe. It does replace the main cat.

Get boost & water temp gauges.

Heisenberg

iTrader: (3)

^^^ do not install the midpipe. As far as the XS intercoolers go, there are quite a few people running them. There is alot of debate as to how good they are but in my opinion im sure they are alot better than the inefecient stock intercooler. If you search around there is a member making really nice ducts for the XS smic which is pretty nice as well.

joeydinc

why not install the mid pipe?

actually I'll have Boost, water temp (already have it), oil temp, and I think I have oil pressure on around here, but it's probably lost along with my boost gauge

adam c

iTrader: (2)

Because you will likely blow your engine.

joeydinc

lol I gathered that,

Adam - It was good to finally meet you



pulled and changed the plugs yesterday. and what a difference OHHH MAN the engine run soo much smooter. The leading plugs had a tone of carbon built up on them and the points were very rounded. I just put in stock NGKs. The second I saw the Leading plugs I knew there was going to be a difference lol.

On the downside I discovered an oil leak, well two. One seems to be coming from the end of a hose that connects to a plastic piece that attaches to what looks like to the intake mani. But I'm going to change the oil soon soo Ill look further into it then Second is the axle seal agianst the diff. there isn't "fluid" just moisture build up.