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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 04:00 PM
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From: the swamp, fl
ssautochrome ebay smic

Yes, I cheaped out because for the 160 dollars I paid, its better than stock and will hold me until I find a good deal on an M2 Large.

Anyhow, this isn't a debate if its a good deal or not, I need to know how people with the SMIC mounted it. I see no mounting spots on the SMIC, only a bracket for the AST. Help?!
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by seanbrowning
Yes, I cheaped out because for the 160 dollars I paid, its better than stock and will hold me until I find a good deal on an M2 Large.

Anyhow, this isn't a debate if its a good deal or not, I need to know how people with the SMIC mounted it. I see no mounting spots on the SMIC, only a bracket for the AST. Help?!
Mine rests securely on top of the cross brace thing, sandwiched between the pipes and my duct. It isn't actually bolted to anything.
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by jayk
Mine rests securely on top of the cross brace thing, sandwiched between the pipes and my duct. It isn't actually bolted to anything.
In no way does that sound secure lol. I mean what can I do so secure this thing.

PS: I'm cursing those guys for not including some way to mount it
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 04:21 PM
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You don't need to mount it, the ASP doesn't mount either. They just sit on that bracket and fan plastic depending on where you position it. Once you put the pipes and couplers on, it isn't going anywhere.
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 04:25 PM
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zip ties if your really worried
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 04:28 PM
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My ASP Race SMIC has been mounted as described above for over 5 years, through road races and drag races and 170 mph highway speeds and it has been 100% fine .
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 04:37 PM
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Alright, I'm trusting you guys. Also, my pipe from turbo to smic has a flange I would guess for a BOV? Can I just get a block off plate fabbed up for it? I'll stick with the stockers, they work!
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by seanbrowning
In no way does that sound secure lol. I mean what can I do so secure this thing.

PS: I'm cursing those guys for not including some way to mount it

I have a Pettit cool charge II and it just rest on the cross bar as well. You know if you solid mount the intercooler then the couplings will have to be flexable enough to allow the engine to move around (not much but a little) Just put something (rubber or other material) to cushion it from metal to metal or it will rub a hole in the bottom of your intercooler.
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 07:42 PM
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Just let it rest on the crossbar. Thats how i have mine and it is good. You can make ure own block off plate. Just go by a small sheet of aluminum equivalent to the thickness of the flange, with a permanent marker trace the outer edge of the flange onto the aluminum. Cut it out and grind it. Then mark the holes, drill em out. Get a gasket and bolt it up.

Last edited by DMoneyRX-7; Jun 14, 2006 at 07:44 PM.
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by DMoneyRX-7
Just let it rest on the crossbar. Thats how i have mine and it is good. You can make ure own block off plate. Just go by a small sheet of aluminum equivalent to the thickness of the flange, with a permanent marker trace the outer edge of the flange onto the aluminum. Cut it out and grind it. Then mark the holes, drill em out. Get a gasket and bolt it up.

You talk as if I have the tools to do so. Which I don't!
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 11:22 PM
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You can also have a pipe fabricated to go from the turbo to the intercooler for a cleaner look. I saw a pic in another post where someone used what looks like a straight pipe attached to the turbo with a 90 degree coupler.

I am contemplating the block off plate route though. At least till I get a BOV that fits.

I am hoping that I can use a straight pipe from my Greddy elbow to the intercooler and doing away with the pipe they provided in the kit.
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by seanbrowning
You talk as if I have the tools to do so. Which I don't!
I would say that you could accomplish this with a hack saw, drill and possibly a dremmel. No real special tools involved. If you don't have these in your tool box I would recommend buying them. Relatively cheap basic stuff.

If really needed, you can buy a table grinder for about $35 at Mennards/Home Depot, etc.
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by seanbrowning
You talk as if I have the tools to do so. Which I don't!
I guess you're soon going to find out that the IC isn't really $160....

What are you going to do for a duct?
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Old Jul 2, 2006 | 12:27 AM
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Originally Posted by rynberg
I guess you're soon going to find out that the IC isn't really $160....

What are you going to do for a duct?
I purchased a duct that was fabbed(which fits awesome had the IC fit where it should). Granted total for the IC with ducting and all is running be a little less then 300, you're right it wasn't 160. But it sure wasn't 1,000(and I know the quality isn't there), but I'm happy with what I got for what I paid.

However, while installing I noticed that the Turbo to IC pipe that was supplied didn't seem to make clearance with the hood, I reused the piping from the stock IC as a temp fix(contemplated puting stock back on for the time being). Any ideas on how I fudged it up? I'll post up pics sooner or later. This definetly will not do for me it is WAY too close to my air intake. Also, any ideas of who I should see about getting custom piping made(seeing as this will solve my problems).

Last edited by seanbrowning; Jul 2, 2006 at 12:48 AM.
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Old Jul 2, 2006 | 12:47 AM
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Maybe the turbo pipe does not fit. If you only need a little more clearance, say 1/4" to clear your hood , you may be able to cut down the pipe on the turboside to lower it.
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Old Jul 2, 2006 | 12:50 AM
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Originally Posted by overkill
Maybe the turbo pipe does not fit. If you only need a little more clearance, say 1/4" to clear your hood , you may be able to cut down the pipe on the turboside to lower it.

Thats exactly was appears I need to do, but was just curious as to why I am having so much trouble and I've heard that others seem to be able to slap it right on.
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Old Jul 2, 2006 | 02:46 AM
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def not, mine is the saw way with the turbo pipe. However, i used a short coupler on the ypipe connection to lower the pipe down a few cm, then wedged it in (with the help of a friend to hold it down) and clamped it tight. Took a while to get it seated at that perfect angle, it probably blew out like 5 or 6 times under boost. I havent had any problems now in over a month :-)

so it can be done with NO modification.
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Old Jul 2, 2006 | 02:49 AM
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Originally Posted by TpCpLaYa
def not, mine is the saw way with the turbo pipe. However, i used a short coupler on the ypipe connection to lower the pipe down a few cm, then wedged it in (with the help of a friend to hold it down) and clamped it tight. Took a while to get it seated at that perfect angle, it probably blew out like 5 or 6 times under boost. I havent had any problems now in over a month :-)

so it can be done with NO modification.

Yah, I was hoping I could do that. We'll see tomorrow after some rest. It just don't see how the turbo pipe clears at that angle. I have a short pipe connector and everything.
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Old Jul 2, 2006 | 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by seanbrowning
Thats exactly was appears I need to do, but was just curious as to why I am having so much trouble and I've heard that others seem to be able to slap it right on.
I have not been following this thread so I do not know where the piping has come from. The piping is somewhat complex in construction because of all the compound miters that must be cut. Not only must the miters be cut at the correct degree, but each peice of pipe ( when welded togehter to form one) must be cut to the exact length. On top of that, when assembling the three peices of pipe together for welding, they must be rotated perfectly so that if follows the correct pathfromthe torubo to IC. If the cuts or miters are off in the slightest degree, it will have a large impact on fitment in the end. If the piping is from Ebay, I feel confident in saying that quality control is your problem. Some people have good batches of piping, others like yourself, do not. Like I said , If you need less than 3/8" of an inch, and you are familar with using a chopsaw with a carbidfe blade, you can cut the piping down. If not, find a carpenter or machinist to do it. If you do it yourself, be careful though- that chopsaw will cut your fingers off like they were butter. Use some Cut-ease on the blade. If you dont have any, they just go really slow on the cut and let the carbide do the work...

P.S. if you go the cut route, better to start off by cutting too little off, and working your way down to the proper length.. If you cut too much off, your are screwed, although I guess the coupler can make up for some of the length.

Last edited by overkill; Jul 2, 2006 at 12:21 PM.
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Old Jul 2, 2006 | 02:19 PM
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From: the swamp, fl
Originally Posted by overkill
I have not been following this thread so I do not know where the piping has come from. The piping is somewhat complex in construction because of all the compound miters that must be cut. Not only must the miters be cut at the correct degree, but each peice of pipe ( when welded togehter to form one) must be cut to the exact length. On top of that, when assembling the three peices of pipe together for welding, they must be rotated perfectly so that if follows the correct pathfromthe torubo to IC. If the cuts or miters are off in the slightest degree, it will have a large impact on fitment in the end. If the piping is from Ebay, I feel confident in saying that quality control is your problem. Some people have good batches of piping, others like yourself, do not. Like I said , If you need less than 3/8" of an inch, and you are familar with using a chopsaw with a carbidfe blade, you can cut the piping down. If not, find a carpenter or machinist to do it. If you do it yourself, be careful though- that chopsaw will cut your fingers off like they were butter. Use some Cut-ease on the blade. If you dont have any, they just go really slow on the cut and let the carbide do the work...

P.S. if you go the cut route, better to start off by cutting too little off, and working your way down to the proper length.. If you cut too much off, your are screwed, although I guess the coupler can make up for some of the length.

Yah, the piping that I received appears to be the exact same that other members have used for their car, just not sure why I'm struggling so much. But if I'm going to cut I'll find a machinist to give me a hand.
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