Hey guys, I have some Earls -6 line that after a indeterminate amount of time the stuff just seems to fail.

Have had 3-4 failure over the years after extended periods of time, I would assert its not the way the ends are connected.

The lengths are in a long bend, but this is its intended purpose, the best fittings to reduce any sever angles are used everywhere possible.

Is there a better replacement hose that would substitute, perhaps even allow me to continue utilizing the -6 fittings?

I have tried other brands, but I dont like the idea of fuel line failures around hot and sparky bits.

Any advice I could ask for?

Anyone have issues with this stuff before?

 

I've moved away from stainless years ago. Not only is it difficult to work with, but the stainless sheath makes it difficult if not impossible to determine the condition of the rubber hose underneath. I use Russel Pro Lite hose. Its nylon braided, weights less than stainless, much easier to work with, and easy to feel when it is deteriorated. The biggest killer of braided hose is running it too close to a heat source like the turbine housing or downpipe.

 

Quick search on Jegs shows that the max operating temp for the Earl's Stainless -6 stuff is 300*F. I'm sure they regularly see a temp like this underneath the intake manifold. Are they failing from heat or perhaps the synthetic rubber hose is not rated for fuel? If you can, flaring and bending your own hard lines would guarantee you wouldn't have an issue, but finding a stainless braided line that is indeed rated for fuel and the temperature would be more for you since you already have fittings etc.

Matt

 

They are the return lines from the rails to the FPR that have been giving me issues, as points of failure for temperature related issues, maybe..

But I have shrouds covering and completely deflecting heat away from these areas. as well as there are unavoidable places that are nested under the manifold with no wide open air buffer, nor air coming off the intercooler to keep everything fairly low and thermaly stable.

I feel like its a best case scenario, and I never read about failures of this stuff for this purpose, tons of users have done very similar routing with far less temperature control to my setup.

You have to imagine the fuel flowing though the lines are essentially cooling them as well ... They have their own temperature regulating sink built in...

The angles is the first thing I am keying in to, yet the angles just are not that extreme, by design and on purpose.

I can see fuel percolating through the braided mesh.
Its disconcerting to say the least.

 

Is it perhaps the Proclassic you are referring to?

Or Earls Prolite?


Stupid question, are earls -6 fittings completely compatible with this specific Russell line?

 

You know I would love to do it this way, but this has been as much of a aesthetic project as utilitarian...

I have never seen a way to make a "perfect" "production" look or have a specific color applied to hardline.

Has anything changed with hardline allowing a very professional look to be applied to it for DIY somehow?

I always thought i might be able to just TIG up some existing -6 fittings to bent hardline, but then finishing it off properly was always the gap to fulfilling this desire.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php?p=11007735&postcount=263

See there for the master of hardlines himself

Matt

 

Thats not too bad at all.


Love that everyone is running the idler water pump pulley now.

Whether its true or not, I believe I “invented” that, at the time I was too young to capitalize on bringing it to market.

Wish I would have had capable people around me at the time so I could say I tangibaly brought something helpful to the table.