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sourcing interior trim and some new owner orientation questions
I have just posted a new member intro in the appropriate section, having driven from Burbank to San Francisco in the new to me 1993 Rx7 R1 in vintage tricoat red!
I have searched the threads and contacted several recyclers on eBay, and no dice. Does anyone know where to source the missing interior panel that is the bottom one at the center tunnel footwell on the driver side? See pic.
Missing interior trim. Sources?
I am sorting out a few more things, just in case someone is in the position to comment:
-I have the infamous issue with tach (works 20% of the time) and speedo (works 60% of the time). My local Palo Alto Speedometer gauge restorer does not have expertise with RX7 gauges, so I had emailed sakebomb next to me to see if they can do it in-house (most likely a circuit board repair on the gauge cluster, based on searched threads).
-The interior smell is something else. 30 years of offgasing on the Japanese plastics. Or the last owner funkified it. I will do a shampoo and upholstery detail
-I did have goop at the coolant cap (not the reservoir refill one, but the high pressure yellow one). It looked like the mix of coolant and oil, a head gasket tell tale with conventional engines, but I am pretending to ignore it here, since my compression numbers were good during PPI. It was only at the top of the filler neck.
-I need new tires, since the DOT code is three digits, so they must be from 1996 (DOT EJ8J CFL346, Bridgestone). I will probably get Michelin Pilot Sport 4S. I am trying not to look like their mascot, Bibbendum, so it is appropriate
-Aftermarket radio does not work, so I will put the stock unit back in. It came with the car.
-I have one shock that leaks on the right front. Not sure if I can replace just one, or go with 4 new ones? Probably no budget for Ohlins coilers, so maybe go with Tokyo, Konis, or something that matches R1 spec. I want to keep the car stock
-A/C is barely cold and seems to go out occasionally. I will try to recharge it with Freon, or convert to R134a
-Racing Beat dual tip muffler is on the way! Someone had installed an undersized Midas job.
-My car died at idle a couple of times. I found a disconnected vacuum house (see arrow in pic). Not sure what it goes it to (need to research the recently download factory service manual), but maybe it was a likely cause? It has not acted up again
Overall....very thrilled with the car! I used to own an 1985 RX7 GS that was super clean and fun when I was in my 30s, so this is just a long overdue upgrade.
Sounds like a good plan you have going, and looks like a super nice example. Personally I would replace just the one shock, though I feel like most here would lean toward replacing all. The Konis are a very good shock and will give you better ride quality than the stock R1 shocks.
Michelin Pilot Sports don't come in 16", unfortunately, so you might be out of luck there. Fortunately, there are still some good tires available in the stock size - I have the Continental ExtremeContact Sports, which compare well to the Michelins.
Sounds like a good plan you have going, and looks like a super nice example. Personally I would replace just the one shock, though I feel like most here would lean toward replacing all. The Konis are a very good shock and will give you better ride quality than the stock R1 shocks.
Michelin Pilot Sports don't come in 16", unfortunately, so you might be out of luck there. Fortunately, there are still some good tires available in the stock size - I have the Continental ExtremeContact Sports, which compare well to the Michelins.
-Thanks for the Conti recommendation. I had them on my daily driver. BigO does list Michelin Pilot Sport 4 tires in the 225/50/zr16, and I also found Michelin Pilot Exalto PE2.
-I will probably take the car to "The Shop" near me in San Bruno and see what they think about replacing shocks. I guess the R1 had different springs, but same brand shocks, so Tokicos from the factory?
-Thanks for the Conti recommendation. I had them on my daily driver. BigO does list Michelin Pilot Sport 4 tires in the 225/50/zr16, and I also found Michelin Pilot Exalto PE2.
-I will probably take the car to "The Shop" near me in San Bruno and see what they think about replacing shocks. I guess the R1 had different springs, but same brand shocks, so Tokicos from the factory?
Interesting, it looks like the regular 4 do come in 16", just not the 4S. Not sure what the difference is between those and the 4S.
R1s actually had same springs but different shocks. The shocks are made by Showa. I'm sure someone will chime in here shortly about your other items.
Sakebomb Garage in Fremont is the local go to rotary expert these days. Suggest using them over a non-rotary shop. Mr Mazda is a good second option but further away.
For new OEM parts, Ray Crowe is our preferred source. He runs Nucar parts, owns 2 FDs and gives us all a good discount and excellent service. Search for info on him.
Michael Gagne is a popular source for instrument cluster repairs. Again, search for his info. There are DIYs for that in the FAQ thread pinned to this forum as well.
Sakebomb Garage in Fremont is the local go to rotary expert these days. Suggest using them over a non-rotary shop. Mr Mazda is a good second option but further away.
For new OEM parts, Ray Crowe is our preferred source. He runs Nucar parts, owns 2 FDs and gives us all a good discount and excellent service. Search for info on him.
Michael Gagne is a popular source for instrument cluster repairs. Again, search for his info. There are DIYs for that in the FAQ thread pinned to this forum as well.
245s are a common upgrade when buying new tires.
Thank you very much, very helpful!
I had just chatted with sakebomb guys. They had also recommended doing a fuel system service. I am waiting to hear back about when I can bring it by. They will take a crack at repairing the cluster. They will send it out (to Michael Gagne or DNA), if they cannot.
I will car Nucor to see what they have. I am trying to stay stock on the tires. I will search the threads and stickies, but 245s sound like a change that might affect clearance, speedo, and ride quality (if profile is lower to keep the fit)
Honestly, sourcing interior parts is one of the most difficult challenges of owning these cars. You would think it would be some weird rotary thing, but actually the rotary is so weird that there's a gazillion things written about it (I myself have contributed many articles). It's just "old Japanese sports car" challenges that are tough. It's not like finding parts for a 1993 Mustang.
Honestly, sourcing interior parts is one of the most difficult challenges of owning these cars. You would think it would be some weird rotary thing, but actually the rotary is so weird that there's a gazillion things written about it (I myself have contributed many articles). It's just "old Japanese sports car" challenges that are tough. It's not like finding parts for a 1993 Mustang.
Agreed. Interior bits can be tough. But I own a vintage Citroen, and I had owned an Italian car from 1963, and it was one of 900 examples, so I am a confirmed masochist, lol
That vacuum line feeds vacuum to some pretty important components. Don't break any nipples now.
Be extremely cautious diving into the vacuum/solenoid set up.
Check your engine codes for signs of trouble first
Don't let just any old neighbourhood garage start digging around in your engine bay.
It is not uncommon to find goopy stuff in the oil filler neck. it can be caused by condensation mixing with the oil.
I am not familiar with finding goopy stuff in the coolant filler necks. But I suppose it is possible.
Good luck with that!
Don't overfill your oil above halfway on the hatching. Overfilling can result in oil migrating to the intake in front of the front turbo through one of those lines in your photo. (That overflow line is often routed to a catch can instead.)
I picked up the modern equivalent of the OEM Bridgestone tires at Costco for about C$700 for a set of four (16x225x50)
We are taking a shot at 3D printing the "driver's side knee oval" this week. I will let you all know how it comes out.
Surprised no one has tackled that yet.
Maybe its too tough.
I am on my fourth set of Type R Bathurst R shocks.
You can get a set sometimes for under $300 on Buyee. Buyee will not ship, But Jesse Streeter will.
You can still get the Bathurst top bumper and sleeve unit OEM on Buyee.
The spring is what Mazda called "normal" but I suspect is the Type R2 spring.
The shock is the Showa harmonic drive shock used in NSX in period.
Jesse will ship by seamail from Japan, which is cheap.
Be prepared to wait 6~12 weeks.
Thanks! These shocks look like good options! Particularly when Ohlins ones are $3k for a set of coilovers.
I had wondered about laser printing, but I found a dealer whose website said that they had this trim part in stock. It was Jim Ellis Mazda in GA. The other dealer, Ray Crowe did not have them. Post up when you make the part, just in case the inventory system lied to me or was “pretend”.
That vacuum line feeds vacuum to some pretty important components. Don't break any nipples now.
Be extremely cautious diving into the vacuum/solenoid set up.
Check your engine codes for signs of trouble first
Don't let just any old neighbourhood garage start digging around in your engine bay.
It is not uncommon to find goopy stuff in the oil filler neck. it can be caused by condensation mixing with the oil.
I am not familiar with finding goopy stuff in the coolant filler necks. But I suppose it is possible.
Good luck with that!
Don't overfill your oil above halfway on the hatching. Overfilling can result in oil migrating to the intake in front of the front turbo through one of those lines in your photo. (That overflow line is often routed to a catch can instead.)
I picked up the modern equivalent of the OEM Bridgestone tires at Costco for about C$700 for a set of four (16x225x50)
thanks! I heard about the rat nest, and I plan to approach it with caution, just like one does with nipples! But I think this one hose being loose might have caused enough of a vacuum
leak to cause a rough idle.
I have ancient Bridgestones on the car now, so they go to the dumpster.
I have an appointment with Sakebomb, a local specialist rx7 garage this Thursday. They keep recommending a complete fuel system service. I think I might do it as a preventative maintenance.
I did hear about overfilling with oil, but always good to hear a reminder.
You can get a brand new full set of Koni Yellows on eBay for $673 shipped, FYI. Much loved in the autocross community. They are high quality, will match the OEM spring rates, and actually give you better ride comfort than the R1 shocks. Handling should be improved too on all but the smoothest surfaces.
Honestly, sourcing interior parts is one of the most difficult challenges of owning these cars. You would think it would be some weird rotary thing, but actually the rotary is so weird that there's a gazillion things written about it (I myself have contributed many articles). It's just "old Japanese sports car" challenges that are tough. It's not like finding parts for a 1993 Mustang.
Originally Posted by c0rbin9
You can get a brand new full set of Koni Yellows on eBay for $673 shipped, FYI. Much loved in the autocross community. They are high quality, will match the OEM spring rates, and actually give you better ride comfort than the R1 shocks. Handling should be improved too on all but the smoothest surfaces.
I need to tackle A/C too and the North American 93's use of R12, and incompatibility with RHD lines, seems to be a real quandary. JP Motorsports has a kit to put an RX8 system into the FD. It's expensive but appealing to be able to use a condenser that was designed for R134. Then there's the R152a hack, though I'm afraid I might blow up my garage trying to do this: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...gerant-964688/
I recommend studying the vacuum diagrams. They're like one of those pictures you stare at that looks like nothing and then suddenly it all makes sense.
Thanks. The A/C thread is loooooong....but I now know about the various generations of refrigerant and options, very helpful.
I will have to think some more about the leaking shock. There are so many people who swear by Ohlins, and I like it on my motorbikes. I am probably trending towards the "old man" suspension set up myself.
I need to tackle A/C too and the North American 93's use of R12, and incompatibility with RHD lines, seems to be a real quandary. JP Motorsports has a kit to put an RX8 system into the FD. It's expensive but appealing to be able to use a condenser that was designed for R134. Then there's the R152a hack, though I'm afraid I might blow up my garage trying to do this: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...gerant-964688/
I recommend studying the vacuum diagrams. They're like one of those pictures you stare at that looks like nothing and then suddenly it all makes sense.
Get the parts catalogues. The exploded diagrams are invaluable because everything is to actual scale.
The vacuum line diagrams are of course helpful, but nothing is to scale and makes it look like many of the vacuum lines are 12" long, when they are really 3".
Gave my friend this sampling of hard to find ot NLA parts last night. He is already beavering away on his 3D printer.
Guess how much these bits are worth?
Which is the clone?
Oooooh! I had contacted about 15 different people on eBay selling used interior parts. Only one of them said that he might have the side wall for the center tunnel.....Sigh. A laser printer is the ticket, plus a nice texture / color match.
If your hunting down used interior or any other FD part for that matter, I'd highly recommend contacting Jim (forum handle: "tomsn16") on this forum. Here's an example of one of his recent ads here on the forum's marketplace: https://www.rx7club.com/market/1162140
He's a good guy to deal with, and if he has the part you need, you'll get exactly the part you requested in the condition he says its in at a fair market price. FWIW, I don't have any business affiliations with Jim, I'm just a satisfied customer.
If your hunting down used interior or any other FD part for that matter, I'd highly recommend contacting Jim (forum handle: "tomsn16") on this forum. Here's an example of one of his recent ads here on the forum's marketplace: https://www.rx7club.com/market/1162140
He's a good guy to deal with, and if he has the part you need, you'll get exactly the part you requested in the condition he says its in at a fair market price. FWIW, I don't have any business affiliations with Jim, I'm just a satisfied customer.
07-31-23, 10:48 AM
