zonblitz

iTrader: (9)

In the middle of a bunch of upgrades, BNR stage 3's, Non Seq conv, Full Fuel system upgrade, cahnging my apexi intake out to an M2 box... as long as I've fought the urge also a vented hood to give me some relief for under hood temps.... I am also considering a water injection kit. Just want to see who out there had this and what your thoughts were.

My current mods: Rotorsports Racing stage 2 13b, Fluidyne Rad, Aluminum AST, Heat Wrapped-Bonez DP, Hi Flo Cat, RB Dual Tip, Greddy SMIC (with petitt duct), All Aluminum Intake and IC Piping, Greddy Elbow, Apexi Power FC, Greddy Prfec B.

I have slowly repaired and upgraded my FD to decent shape, I am still on factory turbos at 155k, lol believe it or not and they boost just fine however I knew I was on crazy thin ice with them. I wanted to keep my current equip thus the BNR's. I also have a factory fuel system so hence the upgrade. In an effort to reduce heat and make my fd more reliable I have added the above mods and figured the M2 box, the vented hood and recent addition of a proper duct for my IC would all help Intake temps/operating temps.

I have just been reading on the Water injection and thought it would be a nice addition to the car.

Tell me what you guy think...

quicksilver_rx7

Talk to GoodfellaFD3S. He can tell you all about it.

sdminus

i run water injection. What do you need to know

Scott

willjs7

iTrader: (1)

i need to know a few things as well... one of which being, which kits(s) are crowned the safest, and why?

PDViper77

iTrader: (9)

I run "water" injection but I always put methanol in it. I use the coolingmist single stage kit.

zonblitz

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for the replies guys... here are my questions:

How was it to install?

Where did you put the feed?

How often/when does it operate?

How long does a tank last?

Are there any longterm detrimental affects on the engine?

Is the temp drop noticeable?

What was your power gain and what did you start with?

sdminus

depending on your ecu i would run as much aquamist as possible.
I would defo run the aquamist dds3 as a safty device.
I run a coolingmist system but have ditched there oil burner jets for the cnc aquamist ones.
I have ditched running 100% meth now as well. there seems to be more power in 50:50 but time will tell on that one. I get an instant drop of about 10 deg C when my system comes on line.

Scott

7racer

1. Install can be time consuming if you are running tubing from a tank located in the rear. Wiring can take some time too.

2. I have two feeds, one at the Greddy elbow one at the intercooler. I think doing one would have been sufficient.

3. I have the first one coming on at 4psi the second at 10. Newer systems can map the output

4. Varies on the size of your injectors and how much you are boosting....obviously

5. doesn't seem like it but there are concerns of hydro lock as posted in some WI forums

6. It is when read on the stock AIT location. I am relocating mine so I do not think I will see as much fluctuations as I did previously. However, Goodfellas noticed a 100degree drop on his EGT's

7. no power gain. Slight loss as the car didn't seem to pull as hard. I plan to have do some more runs. Most do it for safety. I think John Magneson is the only one doing it with plans to tune for it. However, he is putting in place all of the safe guards incase the system fails.

zonblitz

iTrader: (9)

Great info! Thanks guys!

one more question... are you guys running a single or dual system... obviously 7racer has the dual if I read correctly...

sdminus

The best way to run is through some sort of controller or flow control. If you do this then multi nozzel is not needed. I would avoid the dumb system ( pressure activated staged system )

Scott

adictd2b00st

i run the cooling mist progressive kit using 50/50 water/methanol mix, comes with the "vari-cool" controller so setting it up isn't hard at all. i installed my pump/tank in the rear storage bins, installation took about 4 hrs not rushing. its not very hard, just make sure theres no kinks in the lines and the wiring is very straightforward. i'm also using the clog nozzle detector, i have the LED mounted on my pillar pod so its in clear view. mine starts spraying at 5psi, can't tell you the power gain but it definitly brought down my a/fs a ton so i know its doing its job!

zonblitz

iTrader: (9)

cool, all good info...


Also, what are you guys normal intake temps?

Cold to open hwy running:

Traffic:

Warm, sitting i.e. parked at restaraunt, then semi traffic:

How much of a decrease did you see with the system?


Please list your hood (stock/vented) intake and IC please. Just trying to get a reference...

Thanks!

My current air intake temps are as follows:

Cold to open hwy running: about 38-45 C

Traffic: 45-55C

Warm, sitting i.e. parked at restaraunt, then semi traffic: 50-60C but once I get on the interstate it'll get down to high 40's and if long enough low-mid 40's.

I currently have an apexi intake, greddy smic and oem hood.

sdminus

I have a stock hood.

I was drag racing on a 30 deg + day. My temp was 51 deg on the line. it came down to 20 by the 1/8 mile marker.
trust FMIC 100% meth
Scott

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

You can search under my username and aquamist for a bunch of threads on my install and impressions.

You will lose a bit of power, and at least in my case I had to lean out about half a point on my AFRs at high rpm/full boost because the car was stumbling from the combination of rich (high 10) AFRs and the water injection.

I think it's a great mod for those making more than 300 rwhp who want to keep their apex seals in one piece .

crxturboh22

So I was searching for something to do with the car and was really looking into the water/Alch injection SET UP and from what "goodFella" said it drops down the power.. so whats the point?? not to blow the motor i got that , but dropping the temps shouldn't that make more power?.. is there anyway to drop temps and make more power?.. my temps get pretty high.. i'm in Cali and it would be nice if it did drop to low 40's or so... any 1.. ideas GoodFella whats ur 2cents. c'mon and i know that IC sprayer wont help much from what i've read.. the temp drops are insignificant.!! not worth the money for that MOD that is!

dubulup

on the same tune it will drop power...but give the potential for a more aggressive tune, less fuel, more timing...and more boost.

That's how you net more power.

There is an entire AUX inj forum on this board in under rotary performance.

crxturboh22

GOTCHA..... Thanks thats good enough!!

crxturboh22

ohh and I see that alot of people use Alchy because water RUST... ..... any 1,??

NissanConvert

iTrader: (1)

Water doesn't fracture into hydrogen and oxygen as much as one might think so it's harder to spark. You get the temp drop and an increase in detonation resistance but the general consensus seems to be that 50:50 is the ideal mix if you're using it as a safety measure.

100% alky for tuning.