So I'm out in my FD on a Saturday night, when...
Originally Posted by Cgotto6
God damn finally some good info from some senior members. Damn noobs need to stop posting and start reading. Last time Ive checked if you have a boost leak there is no way in hell your gonna get 13psi...Ever!!
Hus after you ensure there is no ripped couplers or boost leaks like that. the easiest thing to do is get Dale Clark's viton check valves and replace the stock ones. Then get to testing the solenoids. I tested about 20 and found only enough to fix the ones that were dead around 5. I would look for someone that just went single and get some extra solenoids to replace if you end up finding bad ones. You have to test the solenoids for proper release and holding of pressure. In both hot and cold conditions. I found most worked cold alright, but not the case when heated up to 200 degrees farenhiet. You have to be scrupulous in testing them. I tested each solenoid ten times both hot and cold. I figured the extra testing would insure a fix. I am glad I did. it worked. It kind of sounds like you are not get transition to the secondary turbo? Which makes me beleive you have a similar problem.
Originally Posted by adam c
If I am not mistaken, I believe that this post was directed at those giving bad advice............ not directed at the thread starter.
Originally Posted by Cgotto6
It most definetly was. Thanks for clearing that up. I didnt have any problem with the original post. It was the dumbasses trying to give advice.
I apologoze then...it's just, if you knew how many times I was told, "do a search" or "this has been discussed a trillion times." I gues I just overlooked the meaning of your post and focused in on "Damn noobs need to stop posting and start reading." My bad
Whenever I drive my FD NO ONE wants to race!! Every car that could be a good oponent (mustangs, vettes, sti's, evos, etc) just look at my car like its too fast, nod in acknowledgment (sp?) and don't even bother to try. No fun!
I've had the car over a year and the only races I've been have been the strip or track.
I've had the car over a year and the only races I've been have been the strip or track.
Originally Posted by Cgotto6
God damn finally some bood info from some senior members. Damn noobs need to stop posting and start reading. Last time Ive checked if you have a boost leak there is no way in hell your gonna get 13psi...Ever!!
oh mighty rotary god what advice have you given?
Originally Posted by neit_jnf
Whenever I drive my FD NO ONE wants to race!! Every car that could be a good oponent (mustangs, vettes, sti's, evos, etc) just look at my car like its too fast, nod in acknowledgment (sp?) and don't even bother to try. No fun!
I've had the car over a year and the only races I've been have been the strip or track.
I've had the car over a year and the only races I've been have been the strip or track.
im with you the only cars ive seen that would be a good race are in my mazda 3, when drive the FD nobody is out
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I actually get irritated most of the time when someone is trying to race me. Not that I don't enjoy a good pull or two, but it seems most of them have no concept of selfpreservation, and the last thing I'll do is risk my license to race some riced out honda.
Usually they start of by getting way to close to my rear bumper to egg me on (pisses me off, strike 1), it's dark (strike 2), in 30 mph zone (strike 3), going towards town (strike 4).
You're definately out now...
Kids...., find a track, empty stretch of highway, open countryroad, in daylight...
I swear, some people think: "it's dark so the cops can't see me...".
Sorry for ranting in your thread, just had one of those on Saturday....
And to contribute something at least... I'd also verify the operation of the check-valves first, and see that the vac-. and press-. chambers are holding their respective charges.
Good luck
Usually they start of by getting way to close to my rear bumper to egg me on (pisses me off, strike 1), it's dark (strike 2), in 30 mph zone (strike 3), going towards town (strike 4).
You're definately out now...
Kids...., find a track, empty stretch of highway, open countryroad, in daylight...
I swear, some people think: "it's dark so the cops can't see me...".
Sorry for ranting in your thread, just had one of those on Saturday....
And to contribute something at least... I'd also verify the operation of the check-valves first, and see that the vac-. and press-. chambers are holding their respective charges.
Good luck
Another thing to look at - Seeing as you did a vacuum hose replacement, you might want to check the hoses coming off of the rats nest, silicone hoses arent fitted like the stock rubber ones were, and so sometimes kink on the tighter bends down in there.
I initially said leak in your IC pipings.. but now re-read your post, its definitely something to do with your turbo control system. My guess is one way valves or one of your line is busted.
Also, check your actuator lines.
Also, check your actuator lines.
Last edited by Herblenny; Apr 3, 2006 at 12:23 PM.
Thanks for all the help guys. I wish I could go out in the garage and try to tackle the problem but I've had a 103 degree fever since I started checking on the lines Saturday night.....finally went to the doctor this morning and got 2 shots in my ***
So maybe that will clear me up of infection so I can get things working smoothly before I head to Deal's Gap this coming weekend
Once again, thanks - Brad
So maybe that will clear me up of infection so I can get things working smoothly before I head to Deal's Gap this coming weekend
Brad,
this sounds very similar to my intermittant secondary boost issue. I have a 4-year old and an 11-month old, so time is of the essence for us fathers.
While diagnosing I found I had "lazy" solenoids (sticktion at 13+psi), a pinched line, and a bad Turbo Control Actuator (the solenoid that is NOT in the rat's nest and next to the ACV)
In my opinion, if these are the original solenoids, I would replace at least the first three (front of the rat's nest) and the Turbo Control Actuator solenoid, and their respective lines with VITON rubber.
Mine now boosts well EVERY time.
If I had just changed out all the turbo control solenoids (there's only four of them) originally, I would have been fixed.
:-) neil
this sounds very similar to my intermittant secondary boost issue. I have a 4-year old and an 11-month old, so time is of the essence for us fathers.
While diagnosing I found I had "lazy" solenoids (sticktion at 13+psi), a pinched line, and a bad Turbo Control Actuator (the solenoid that is NOT in the rat's nest and next to the ACV)
In my opinion, if these are the original solenoids, I would replace at least the first three (front of the rat's nest) and the Turbo Control Actuator solenoid, and their respective lines with VITON rubber.
Mine now boosts well EVERY time.
If I had just changed out all the turbo control solenoids (there's only four of them) originally, I would have been fixed.
:-) neil
Originally Posted by M104-AMG
Brad,
this sounds very similar to my intermittant secondary boost issue. I have a 4-year old and an 11-month old, so time is of the essence for us fathers.
While diagnosing I found I had "lazy" solenoids (sticktion at 13+psi), a pinched line, and a bad Turbo Control Actuator (the solenoid that is NOT in the rat's nest and next to the ACV)
In my opinion, if these are the original solenoids, I would replace at least the first three (front of the rat's nest) and the Turbo Control Actuator solenoid, and their respective lines with VITON rubber.
Mine now boosts well EVERY time.
If I had just changed out all the turbo control solenoids (there's only four of them) originally, I would have been fixed.
:-) neil
this sounds very similar to my intermittant secondary boost issue. I have a 4-year old and an 11-month old, so time is of the essence for us fathers.
While diagnosing I found I had "lazy" solenoids (sticktion at 13+psi), a pinched line, and a bad Turbo Control Actuator (the solenoid that is NOT in the rat's nest and next to the ACV)
In my opinion, if these are the original solenoids, I would replace at least the first three (front of the rat's nest) and the Turbo Control Actuator solenoid, and their respective lines with VITON rubber.
Mine now boosts well EVERY time.
If I had just changed out all the turbo control solenoids (there's only four of them) originally, I would have been fixed.
:-) neil
Thanks for the input. I'll definitely check everything out. I feel a little better today but I still took off from work so I'm working on the FD as I feel like it. I have not found any leaky or busted lines so I'm assuming it's solenoids and valves.
I've had several people tell me to check my spark plugs...I don't know spark plugs/fuel have to do with boost but I went ahead and pulled them and they are all pretty spent. So I went and bought a bunch of NGK R BUR9EQ and NGK R BUR7EQ plugs.
Might be a stupid question and I'm sure it is because things are done for a reason, but since the 9EQ plug is just a little hotter plug than the 7EQ, what's the harm in putting in all 9EQ plugs? Anybody?
Originally Posted by herblenny
103! WOW! thats not good.
Well, hope you feel better and hope to see you at the gap!
Well, hope you feel better and hope to see you at the gap!
Ok, so I just got back to my house after a 2 hour drive after putting in my new spark plugs...by the way I'm running all 4 as BUR9EQ...and the car is running great. Maybe it wasn't a boost issue at all, but it did reflect on my boost gauge just like I mentioned in this post. What's up with that? Did I just get lucky this drive and none of the valves or solenoids stick or leaked or was it really my plugs. I should've took pics of my plugs for you to see but they were burnt to a crisp, especially both Leading plugs. Thanks for all the good input and if it ends up being a leak or a valve or solenoid I know now that I can refer back to this post as a guide. Thanks -Brad
Last edited by hus; Apr 4, 2006 at 05:35 PM.
Originally Posted by 21K95RX7
oh mighty rotary god what advice have you given?
Might be worth checking the condition of your cat. I had similar issues when the inside of the cat was breaking up caused to much restriction in the exhaust and affecting the engine power and boost.
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