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iTrader: (2)

I started it about 4 times this winter and let it warm up but it didnt get any real drive time. I noticed more blue smoke from the tail pipe at idle that normally isnt there. Also it didnt want to spool up last 5 psi on primary or secondary. I figure the oil seals leaked by and I have some puddles of oil inside the turbos burning off. Maybe it will come back. Maybe I will be replacing them. Anyone notice any odd items after bringing the FD out of Storage this Spring?
Mods
ATR DP
ATR MP
M2 Med intercooler
M2 intake
Greddy SP Cat back
Apex PFC
Mazdatrix Short Shifter
ACT Street strip clutch
Momo Shifter ****
Powerstop Cross drilled Rotors
Axxis metal Master Pads
Speed Bleeders
Autometer Boost Gauge
Volk TE 37's 18x9.5 and 18x8.5
Bridgestone S-03's
Stock wheels Powdercoated white with Bridgestone S-02's
H&R Lowering springs

Silex

Maybe it has to do with the all that dust buildup from staining in storagell. OR maybe all that magnesium phosphate or chloride that has been recouperating in the vast reaches of the bowls of your rx-7 :p.

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iTrader: (2)

Umm. No. But anyways I had plans for a turbos when my old stockers finally bit the dust for the second time. I hate the gremlins in the twin set up but I like the Idea of 99 Spec twins and retain lots of low end. Any constructive comments?

JConn2299

I take mine off the road in winter too. I think your gas is stale. I put Sta-bil in my tank just before I put it away in the winter, but I notice when I start driving again in April the gas doesn't seem as potent. I try to use up the old gas as fast as I can, then I put in fresh gas along with some good fuel injector cleaner (Redline or BG 44K)
and I notice an immediate pickup in performance.

kwikrx7

I've heard great things about the 99 spec turbos - smaller turbine wheels and a more efficient design will yield a few more hp and more low end - will cost around $2300-2800 depending on who you get them through. I'm getting mine rebuilt by BNRSupercars - actually upgraded - should get 40 more rwhp out of it and it costs around $1600 with a 1 year unlimited mile warranty - but if your nervous about rebuilds then the 99 spec is the way to go (just too much $$ for me for a few more hp)

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iTrader: (2)

Oh I agree about the price vs Cost point but in this case making 5 psi isnt exactly ideal. Switching to a new set I might as well upgrade for the extra cost. I had my stocks rebuilt once already. The lasted maybe 30k. Rebuilds dont last like new sets. At leats not on the Hitachi models. I expect I can buy some low milage 99 specs from Jesse in Japan. I saw a set for 1400 that he was selling with 30k on them. They gotta be better than my 115k stock junks. Maybe I will just spend the extra and get the T04S or something. I just hate the Lag of a single.

racer rx

I had the same thing bring my car out from storage.
Some blue smoke. And when I went for a spirited run.

After I got the car into the garage...after 10 mins of shutting off... the tailpipe had some smoke coming out.
And there was a burnt oil smell in the garage.

I suspect the Turbo's as well. I Luv the Squential system though. I like the power of the secondary when it kicks in. I think this year I might have to spring for the 99 spec's. Only wish I could get 425 hp out of them.

I notice every year to... that it takes a little longer for the turbos to get full operating temp. About 8 -10 mins of driving around. When I first got my 7. It would only take 5 mins of running. "Only to get into the turbos when the Temp gauge hits middle".

Just seems like the secondary will not kick in till fully warmed up and hot.

Another sign of replacements needed I suspect... jc

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iTrader: (2)

I had the same smell. I didnt know if it was from oil burning off the manifold that might have leaked by or from the exhaust. Either way thanks for sharing. I didnt think I would be all alone with this. Seems all too common for our aging cars. Glad to see it comes back though.

Silver93T

5 minutes probably isn't enough for the car to be fully warmed up. It usually takes a few miles of driving around. What happens is the double throttle plates stay closed untill the motor is sufficiently warmed up, and limit air intake into the motor. Its not the turbos that aren't warmed up and don't want to spool up. Mazda did this to protect the motor from jackasses that gas it as soon as they start the car. Don't feel too bad because when I first got the car I didn't know either. I would see that the stock pos temp gauge would show warmed up and I would floor it, and wonder why the car didn't get full power. Ended up getting a vacuum hose job. What I do is start the car and let it idle for maybe a minute or so, to get the oil circulating. If I'm not in a rush I'll start it and pull it out of the garage, and then go back inside and finish getting ready (while making sure car is still in driveway of course) I then drive gently for the first few miles, shifting at around 3500 rpm and staying off the boost. Once I see above 80 degrees C on my commander I start slowly reving it higher and getting into the boost. The stock temperature guage sucks. Mine will be in the middle and show warmed up while the commander still reads only like 65-70 degrees.
I have my double throttle disabled because with my Mazdacomp radiator in cold weather on the highway it would cool down enough for the double throttle to close and I'd loose power. So I am extra carefull untill it has a chance to fully warm up.

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iTrader: (2)

Oh I let it warm up for like 10 mins or more and I also have the PFC. The idle dropped as it does after about 5-10 mins and I drove it up and down the street for about another 10 mins. Let it idle for about 10 more mins. Then drove it again. I think the double throttle may be stuck but I do watch the temps on the PFC and I do not nail it until its fully warmed up. Thanks for your input.

Silver93T

Could disable it by unplugging its vacuum hose. Its the solnoid on the backside of the throttle body. If its stuck closed then you might have to manualy open it. I plan to remove the butterflies alltogether to eliminate the restriction. Just have to be carefull untill the car is warmed up fully.

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iTrader: (2)

Thats interesting because I have the Greddy Elbow and the Hose is unplugged already. Its Sucking air at idle. The hose from the air pump to the stock elbow. is that what you mean? Or do you mean another hose?