Hey guys, I've been messing with the thing a week or so now and have gotten lots of advice on here. Ive gotten it to crank up but it struggles alot. I went and replaced a couple fuel lines to fix a leak and did the spark plugs. Right now my problem is when it actually does start it needs gas to stay going and it dies if i don't it dies. Anyone have any advice? The secondary injector plugs on the harness don't match the poem plugs but i was told it should still idle without the secondaries plugged in. I also have the intake off because I'm waiting on a pipe to go between elbow and intercooler pipe.

Heres the spark (maybe the problem?)

Heres me having to throttle it, once i let it get to low it just dies on me.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=feKN...ature=youtu.be

 

Looks like the earth wire is clamped between the throttle and plenum or am i seeing things ?
The spark is enough to start ive seen way worse than that are all plugs same ?
And all coils

The running vids sounds like injector or coil is not in right places

 

Oh yeah, the motor is half bridge'd in case that changes your opinion on if they are in the wrong spot or not.


lmao yeah that was like that just to test spark, i didn't have a 10mm bolt at the time to bolt it in the right spot. Rest assured its not there anymore.

All plugs are the same 9's.
The coils are oem,
left spark ign wire - front trailing plug
top middle ign wire -rear leading plug
bottom middle ign wire -front leading plug
right ign wire - rear leading plug




As far as the injector plugs go the wire colors don't match up with the fsm i have.
The primary plug wires are [Br/R l B/W] and [Br/B l B/W]
The [Br/R l B/W] wires are longer, so i have it on the front rotor.

 

Its the way its revving seems like somthing is up its verry hezatant sounds like a lead is disconected

Stock ecu ?

Ok
the wiring to the coils have u played with them in any way or any of the wiring ?

Sorry also just to simplifiy thing disconect the secondry injectors just incase they dont kick in till 3kish or so
On stock ecu
Just for testing
Also u can disconect trailing coil plugs from the coil not the ht lead but the coil ( u can run just leading coil )

For injectors
Pin back to ecu from plug make sure
Front primry rotor
4w
Rear primry
4y

Secondry front
4x
Secondry rear
4z

 

Its on an apexi pfc

I have uninstalled and reinstalled the harness if thats what you mean by played with them.

secondary injectors have been uninstalled, the injectors are oem, and the plugs are for aftermarket.

The correct color wires are in the correct place on the ecu, it must be soldered somewhere in the loom to the different color wires. I would have to uninstall and cut harness and rewrap to figure it out unless there is an easier way.. This harness is made out of two harnesses because one was in a fire.

 

Thort you possibly may have reapired or added additional wiring is all
I say use a meter and do a resistance test unplug ecu and the injectors the ^^^above pins 4w 4y etc and check if
4w is connected to front primry injector from ecu And same with ecu pin 4y to primry rear

if you get what i mean

Also some bridgports wont idle to low ether

 

So i checked resistance and i got the injector plugs in the right place, turns out they were wrong and probably the starter fluid is what got it going. It still won't start without accelerant though

 

Injector test, i did notice the pintle tip was cracked and not centered.

 

Are the diffusers in the plates ?
The spray doesnt look to bad
If you look down the primry injector hole with a light u should be able to see it also the rubber injector seal that goes around the primry injector is that been used ?

 

Yeah I have the rubber seat, I'll look for the diffuser now

 

Did you cut the proper wires in the engine harness down by the PFC? The ones for EGR etc.

Also, take a shot of the sensor/switch voltage screen with the key on accessory.

 

I had a shop that works on modified rx7's wire it so im pretty sure deleted things are right.

 

^That was taken with the car running? If the throttle was completely closed, your TPS is completely out of spec.

You're not running an OMP i take it.

Take a shot with the car not running.

 

Sorry i didn't see you had replied, here is the sensors when car is not running.
<a href="http://s1093.photobucket.com/user/JaredNoriega/media/IMG_0810_zpsfasmrluj.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i432/JaredNoriega/IMG_0810_zpsfasmrluj.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0810_zpsfasmrluj.jpg"/></a>

 

And no, I'm not running omp.

 

As I thought, your TPS is completely out of spec.

Here's a quote of mine from 2011 I dug up:

Also, that PIM voltage doesn't look right either. Again from memory, I feel like it should be at around 2 volts? I'm sure someone else can chime in.

 

Yeah I think both pictures are with the car off, idk why the pim is so different between tho two pics. Is the voltage something I set, or is it a problem in wiring?

 

The tps is adjustable, im sure there are threads covering the procedure. Have you tested this engine for compression? Your running video only sounds like 1 rotor.

 

Before putting this harness on it ran perfectly, unless letting it sit for a year or so made it lose compression it's something else. I turned it by hand and added oil to the crank case to loosen it up before letting the starter turn it.

 

Then it's possible a seal could be stuck. Give it a quick check before you keep pushing on to eliminate it as a possibility.

 

If compression is low, are there ways to see why it's low?

 

Im going to need a new comp tester or a new 13b

 

A regular $30 parts store compression tester is good enough for what you're doing.

 

Then it's blown, I had an old one thats reading low low on both.